Recent content by DTCsk8er

I work (ironically) about a mile from Richmond Auto Upholstery. I may end up going this route for my seats at some point, but curious what you are waiting to hear back from on them?

I have had my RTT on my truck for months now. The stock cross bars were replaced with extruded aluminum, but I am using the stock side bars. Not a single issue, and handles my family of 5 in the tent just fine. The extruded aluminum MOD still makes it very challenging to get the RTT installed...

Hell yes! Worth the headache alone of pulling CVs, Hub Gears, and/or driveshaft on the trail.

I treated my refilling as if the rear AC didn't exist at all. Rear AC blows cool after a minute or two of blasting the heat out of the vents.

I requested samples. and never received them lol

7 PIN harness is a must IMO.. I wired myself, and everything worked great on my las trip towing an RV. As others mentioned, towing with OD off is the usual.. my rig with 33s tows pretty well in TX going around 65-68mph. Uphills suck, so make sure you set expectations accordingly. In terms of...

If it was a hub issue (one, not both, since it'd be pretty rare to have both lock up to the spindle), the only way it could completely lock the front end is if the diff is locked. If the diff wasn't grenaded, one side would still be able to move. I'm leaning towards the front end worked itself...

Except my salary!

2000 4 spd. With OD off, a comfortable cruising speed for me is around 60MPH (GPS of 65ish). I use torque pro to keep an eye on my trans temps, and it seems to report around 150-160degF most of the time on driving through town, and between 140-150degF on the fwy. Temps seem pretty consistent for...

I'm probably approaching time to flush fluids again, but I've been towing a few times this last year or so with my 310k cruiser w/ the stock trans. Nothing terribly heavy (<5-6klbs), and as long as I keep temps down I have no concern it will just continue chugging along. Probably the most robust...

I'm lifted, with no diff drop. My original CVs were toast prior to lift, and I ended up getting aftermarket CVs. They lasted about 50k miles before the boots tore, but no noises or clicking. It's pretty hard to believe a set of OEM CVs would be misbehaving so early even on a lifted w/out drop...

I recently converted to part time, using my Cardone CVs. When I initially installed these axles, they were definitely difficult to get through the hub gear. When I went to remove the hub gears, I noticed it was still tight, but manageable with a few brass punch hits; nothing excessive.

If you've put in another (known working w/out vibrations) front DS and it's still giving vibrations up front, then I'd say the next logical rotating item up front is the CVs.

I'm local, and interested.