I have had my RTT on my truck for months now. The stock cross bars were replaced with extruded aluminum, but I am using the stock side bars. Not a single issue, and handles my family of 5 in the tent just fine.
The extruded aluminum MOD still makes it very challenging to get the RTT installed...
7 PIN harness is a must IMO.. I wired myself, and everything worked great on my las trip towing an RV. As others mentioned, towing with OD off is the usual.. my rig with 33s tows pretty well in TX going around 65-68mph. Uphills suck, so make sure you set expectations accordingly.
In terms of...
If it was a hub issue (one, not both, since it'd be pretty rare to have both lock up to the spindle), the only way it could completely lock the front end is if the diff is locked. If the diff wasn't grenaded, one side would still be able to move.
I'm leaning towards the front end worked itself...
2000 4 spd. With OD off, a comfortable cruising speed for me is around 60MPH (GPS of 65ish). I use torque pro to keep an eye on my trans temps, and it seems to report around 150-160degF most of the time on driving through town, and between 140-150degF on the fwy. Temps seem pretty consistent for...
I'm probably approaching time to flush fluids again, but I've been towing a few times this last year or so with my 310k cruiser w/ the stock trans. Nothing terribly heavy (<5-6klbs), and as long as I keep temps down I have no concern it will just continue chugging along. Probably the most robust...
I'm lifted, with no diff drop. My original CVs were toast prior to lift, and I ended up getting aftermarket CVs. They lasted about 50k miles before the boots tore, but no noises or clicking. It's pretty hard to believe a set of OEM CVs would be misbehaving so early even on a lifted w/out drop...
I recently converted to part time, using my Cardone CVs. When I initially installed these axles, they were definitely difficult to get through the hub gear. When I went to remove the hub gears, I noticed it was still tight, but manageable with a few brass punch hits; nothing excessive.
If you've put in another (known working w/out vibrations) front DS and it's still giving vibrations up front, then I'd say the next logical rotating item up front is the CVs.
Boom. Anyone who follows TG instructions, make sure you remove the small cover and the outer c clip. Had me wondering for a few minutes. Everything went smooth and been running part time for about a week now!
Received my kit! Couldn't resist getting started. Hub install went perfect. Riding around open hub (case locked) until I get time to install the spool!
Just ordered my kit!
It seems the jury is still out on the MPG savings; I've got about 4 years of data on my cruiser.. should be pretty easy to see if I see any improvement.
I'm probably going to be in the same situation on mine when I get to doing the timing belt in another 5-10k miles; lots of oil residue in that same area.
In your case, it almost looks like someone replaced the seal and didnt clean up the mess the failed seal created.
Eh, my 4runner had worse. Panels and windshield were completely gone. Took a lot of work to repair, but I am handy and have a welder.
If you have the will, keep it. These aren't getting any easier to find. How is the interior?
Well, I finally had both CVs start slinging some grease from the inner boots (estimated about 55k miles so far). Both boots from the HD Cardone CVs are ripped in different locations. No clicking yet, but I am sure it's just a matter of time. Cardone requires the Warranty to be honored by the...
I've been fighting mine for a while now too... also chasing down somewhat high idle when in park. Makes me wonder if it could be tied to the tank pressure..