Recent content by diesellibrarian

It's a pain, but you can replace the fuel pulsation damper without removing any intake stuff. I used a crow's foot socket that I ground down a bit to make it fit. I wanna say it was 22 or 23mm. I don't know if they're available OEM. I got mine from NAPA and it works fine. If I recall, the new...

Protectionist import tariffs? EDIT: I called the dealer, and they are $130 CDN each, which is about $95 USD. So still a little cheaper but not crazy cheap.

Hmmm. I wonder what it would cost to ship them to Sweetgrass, MT? I'm only about 50 miles from the border, so it would be easy to pop down there to pick them up. I will send you a DM about this.

Thanks for the detailed explanation! I've been basically doing what you describe. Etching primer on bare metal, followed by a 2k high-build primer, followed by top coat. The rusty spots that I didn't cut out have been hit with a rust converter, then the red oxide primer, which I will either...

I'm not an expert, but this is what I've been given to understand: self-etch is designed to create a strong chemical when applied to clean bare metal, making for solid adhesion for subsequent layers. I think red oxide is often applied over metal that has started to rust - probably more commonly...

Still plugging away at things on this old beast. Over the weekend I did a bunch of seam-sealing and some sanding and paint stuff on the body. I put self-etching primer over any bare metal, and then some red oxide primer over top of that. My goal with the red oxide is to have a rusty-coloured...

I have had parts shipped to At The Border Storage in Sweetgrass, MT. Haven't used them in a while, but it looks like they're still operating: Border Storage - http://www.attheborderstorage.com/ Also makes for a great chance to grab a 40 of Jim Beam at the Duty Free.

It doesn't hurt to smear some automotive seam sealer over the weld joints after priming. That will seal up any pinholes and extend the life of the repair.

I agree - start with the oil pan. I had the exact same symptoms as you, and since replacing the oil pan gasket, I have no oil leaks at all. I used a scissor jack to push the pan away from the block, as seen in the photo below. Follow the FSM to the letter and as @SteveH says, ONLY use the...

I wish I had access to a cleaner truck! But up here in Canada, clean FJ40s don't exist south of the $30,000 mark. So that's why I'm fixing up this junk, haha. Thankfully the frame on this one is super solid - otherwise I wouldn't bother doing all this work.

Back on the rust repair! Finally bit the bullet and started working on the passenger side rocker. In my naive optimism, my plan was to cut out this small section, and weld in a simple patch and be done with it: Of course, it's never that simple. Here's what was lurking behind the rust: The...

It could be, but having dismantled a stalk in an attempt to repair a similar-but-different headlight issue, I would be surprised if it was the stalk: I just don't see that many opportunities for a short circuit in the stalk switch. I'm not an electrical expert, but the symptoms you describe...

Let's see some pics of your rig!

Are you replacing the quarter panel? You'll have to drill out dozens of spot welds where it meets the inner fender, rocker panel, sill, etc.

Haven't been able to log much shop time lately, but I've been slowly working away at cobbling together my remixed Bestop. As mentioned before, I'm trying to make it look less "Jeep" and more "FST." To that end, I removed the front tub rail mounting brackets and tack welded them to the top of the...