Recent content by dentedpig

I got a few parts off a 76 that had this insulating stuff. It was painted off white, probably from the factory. It was about 3/8" thick, and held on with adhesive. I peeled some off to cover the tranny hump on my 1969 to keep the noise down. It came off easy, but in 2 pieces. It should be...

How much longer do you need. When I replaced mine for a 1969 with the stock 3spd, I got it from spector(1 piece). When i put in the longer 4spd, it was more than long enough, with a couple inches to spare.

See if you can get your vehicle insured as an "antique". Under this title you are not supposed to drive it too much, but you can drive it when you like, pretty vague. On my FJ55, in california, my insurance is $62/year with the "antique" policy. Not too bad of a price.

Can't you do this with the old units in place. I am probably wrong, but I thought on 3spds you could interchange the top plate of a column shifter with the top plate of a floor shifter. I think you can also just swap the shift levers and such on the transfer, using your old transfer and tranny...

Find a screwdriver with a strong and very small end. Wedge it into the split portion and twist. That or beat everything with a rubber mallet like a gorilla on steroids Until they loosen a little.

What about with the flywheel from a 2F mated to a 4spd, behind an F motor? The tabs were on my original flywheel, but not on the ones that I removed from the donor 2F.

On some flywheels there are these kidney bean shaped washers that go under two bolts and have their tabs bent up to make sure the bolts don't work loose. I'm not sure what they are called, so I hope that is not too vague. Are these necessary when reinstalling a flywheel? Can I just use split...

thanks, with the way my truck sits, I have a large amount of extra slip left, so I had them modified to promise a good fit. 38" was pretty close to actual for the rear. The front shaft is being lengthened 3 1/8". Now time to torque, stake, and change some seals, and the 4spd in finally in...

Does anyone out there know or can you measure the compressed driveshaft length from flange to flange for the driveshafts to fit an fj55 with a stock 4spd tranny. I need to double check my measurements before I get my driveshafts modified. I'm joining the band wagon and am getting rid of the 3...

I almost put headers on my F engine, but was talked out of it. And by who? $OR themselves (poor sales pressure there). I was under the impression that for HP, headers are great, but by just decreasing backpressure you may actually lose some of your low end torque. Kind of opposite of what a...

I spent around $600 on mine, but that was with brand new calipers, new vented rotors, and a new 1" master cylinder (I had a single circuit MC). An el cheap estimate is around $250, the standard $100 for the birfs, knuckles, hubs, etc with calipers and rotors attached, $100 for the knuckle...

I had to seperate one without the proper tools. The bumper that was on the vehicle was solid and welded to the frame. Pounding the birfield's bearing cage against the bumper made it come right off. Crude, but it worked.

SOR sold me a one piece cable for my old 3spd. Now, with the 4spd in, the length is perfect and has used up the extra slack. It was also pretty inexpensive.

You can also get a pilot bearing puller for $20 and a slide hammer. I pulled mine out yesterday and boy was it stuck good. Also check the fit of your new pilot bearing to the end of the tranny shaft. It should be a slip fit, if not, bust out the emery cloth.

With mine I used an early 1990's 1" master cylinder, with the valving/line splitters from a 1984 mini truck. No proportioning valve was necessary. Almost all toyota stuff is 10mm fittings, except for yours and a few others. Suposedly 9mm fitting were used all the way through 1969, but this is...