The converter relay is expensive, and maybe hard to find as well. The main reason I did the 12v conversion was to achieve a true dual battery function. I can have one battery go completely dead and I can still start the cruiser.
At the same time I replaced the starter I redid the charge circuit...
HDJ's with a "cold weather" package have a 24 starter. The rest of the system is still 12v, but there is a relay that energizes and puts the batteries in series to make 24v for the starter.
There is a relay that switches the batteries from parallel to series, I think it's called the 24v converter? It's a super common failure point on the 24v start system.
Lots of folks, myself included have done a conversion to a 12v starter.
Thanks for the reply, however I still don't understand. The FSM has a whole procedure for selecting the correct size bearings, and there are 5 different "MK" sizes. But these Taiho bearings somehow all magically work?
Do the OE bearings have marking on them that denote the Mk?
I am in the process of having my crank repaired, I had a harmonic balancer fail and damage the snout.
I am planning on replacing the BEB's while I am in here, but I have been running into trouble figuring out which size bearing to order.
I incorrectly assumed that I could discern the bearing...
A little backstory, I had just completed a bunch of maintenance right before taking this trip, including installing a new harmonic balancer (both pieces).
I was having a hard time holding the balancer while torquing it, so I ran it on with my smallest 1/2 impact, which is rated around 180 ft...
I feel like there is a reason that I have never heard of anyone using this exemption. Every single imported cruiser I have seen is 25 years old. Maybe it doesn't apply to Diesels?
I will absolutely make a thread when I get started on this. I'm currently doing a bunch of refreshing work, then I'm going to try and re-tune using a wideband, then I will go down this ECU rabbit hole.
Messing with a unichiip is going to cost me $500 ish and some time. Vs probably $15k for a FTE swap.
I'm very happy with the general drivability of my G-turbo, and honestly I still haven't seen any really concrete alternatives with lots of testing to back up the claims. I know the G-turbo isn't...
We're definitely on the same page. The roughest tool would be to just bleed some pressure to the boost compensator when boost is above a certain threshold and RPM's are in a given range. Then I wouldn't have to mess with a throttle position sensor.
But some kind of closed loop PID thing with a...