The converter relay is expensive, and maybe hard to find as well. The main reason I did the 12v conversion was to achieve a true dual battery function. I can have one battery go completely dead and I can still start the cruiser.
At the same time I replaced the starter I redid the charge circuit...
HDJ's with a "cold weather" package have a 24 starter. The rest of the system is still 12v, but there is a relay that energizes and puts the batteries in series to make 24v for the starter.
There is a relay that switches the batteries from parallel to series, I think it's called the 24v converter? It's a super common failure point on the 24v start system.
Lots of folks, myself included have done a conversion to a 12v starter.
Thanks for the reply, however I still don't understand. The FSM has a whole procedure for selecting the correct size bearings, and there are 5 different "MK" sizes. But these Taiho bearings somehow all magically work?
Do the OE bearings have marking on them that denote the Mk?
I am in the process of having my crank repaired, I had a harmonic balancer fail and damage the snout.
I am planning on replacing the BEB's while I am in here, but I have been running into trouble figuring out which size bearing to order.
I incorrectly assumed that I could discern the bearing...
A little backstory, I had just completed a bunch of maintenance right before taking this trip, including installing a new harmonic balancer (both pieces).
I was having a hard time holding the balancer while torquing it, so I ran it on with my smallest 1/2 impact, which is rated around 180 ft...
I feel like there is a reason that I have never heard of anyone using this exemption. Every single imported cruiser I have seen is 25 years old. Maybe it doesn't apply to Diesels?
I will absolutely make a thread when I get started on this. I'm currently doing a bunch of refreshing work, then I'm going to try and re-tune using a wideband, then I will go down this ECU rabbit hole.
Messing with a unichiip is going to cost me $500 ish and some time. Vs probably $15k for a FTE swap.
I'm very happy with the general drivability of my G-turbo, and honestly I still haven't seen any really concrete alternatives with lots of testing to back up the claims. I know the G-turbo isn't...
We're definitely on the same page. The roughest tool would be to just bleed some pressure to the boost compensator when boost is above a certain threshold and RPM's are in a given range. Then I wouldn't have to mess with a throttle position sensor.
But some kind of closed loop PID thing with a...
Has anyone ever considered stand-alone electronic boost control?
I have a G-turbo green wheel in my HDJ81, and I get what I understand to be high turbine pressure resulting in high EGT's at high rpms.
I was messing with tunes on my Subaru recently and noticed that the turbo map tapers off into...
That was a chore to source for my rig, I'll put this thread here for anyone else looking for the heater valve on a pre-95 RHD. HDJ81 Heater Control Valve - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hdj81-heater-control-valve.827718/page-2
That seems to be the consensus.
Thank you!
Is this that common of a fail point? I wheel pretty hard but I'm only on 33's and not planning to go bigger.
These items are on the list for sure! Thanks.
Good stuff. Thanks for all the links, I am building a nice collection of writeups.
They are...
I have very annoying P/S leaks from the pump and the box, and the power steering assist barely works. It's just good enough for street driving, it's useless when I'm rock crawling. As far as the IP and injectors, I have mediocre performance and high EGT's considering how built my 1HD-T is. It...