Recent content by Coolerman

Well... If the alternator currently installed is an internally regulated alternator then the White #14 wire would go straight to the alternator as the excite wire. What is "power supply idling"? If you mean the truck does not want to idle, the first place to check is to make sure the carb...

If you can move it much at all it's worn. Any side to side movement will result in the points gap being all over the place while running. I think the old timers called that "points jitter".

VERY impressive work!

Short answer YES it's worth it. When Mark did the carb he probably installed the ported vacuum port you will need for a vacuum advance dizzy. I would check you current dizzy to see how much play you have in the shaft. If it's a lot then go with a new dizzy and install the Pertronix. If the play...

The 1974 FJ40 Amp Meter shunt would be dificult to replace as it's part of the meter itself, not external like the 1979 and up amp meters. Great read: all things gauges Here is why you can run a high amp replacement alternator and not burn up the 30 A amp meter: with a couple of cautions... and...

I mailed the jumper plug out Friday...

An issue you may have with that HEI clone distributor is where are you powering it from? If you are using the Black/Yellow wire that originally went to the OEM ignitor that may be the whole problem. Your 1978 FJ40 has a ballast resistor that is built into that Black/Yellow wire. If you search...

1973 OEM Color Code for rear chassis wires Green = Park/Tail/License/Marker lights Green/Orange = Left Brake/Turn Green/Yellow = Right Brake/Turn Red/Blue = Reverse Light Real OEM tail lights have matching color wires, but aftermarket lights may not. My aftermarket tail lights use Green/White...

Yes, I realize this is an old thread! I have measured several of these recently with a capacitance meter and just for the record that caps value runs from about 2600 uF to 3000 uF. Due to degradation over 25 years, I would assume that the original value was closer to 3000uF, possibly even 3300...

I think I can help with this... I had it in my head your 1974 had a regulator with screw terminals, not the three pin female connector it actually has. That "weird box on the fender" is your voltage regulator. It is not an OEM regulator (that mounts to the drivers side firewall under the...

First the wire for the coil/igniter is the larger 14ga BY wire. Second: Be careful if you plan to use the coil that you posted a pic of in post #5 with the ballast resistor installed. Your 1978 has a "built in" ballast resistor wire inside the main cowl harness instead of having an external...

Forgot to answer the other question. Yes if everything is connected as shown, and all the following conditions are met: 1. You have a 10ga or better wire going from the Alternator B+ stud to the battey + terminal 2. The battery is grounded to the frame AND the engine block, and the body, and...

See the attached drawing showing exactly how to wire the alternator to the regulator. This drawing is for 1970 but is the same as the 1968. WB = White/Black, WR = White/Red, WG = White/Green The 1968 FJ40 has a separate reverse light. It is not part of the tail light combo bulb. It is mounted...

Blue/Red on top. This is the +12V input and goes to Fuse 5 Heater Black/Yellow on left. This is the switched + wire and goes to the two pin connector for the seat belt buzzer to supply it with power. White/Black on right. This is the ground wire for the relay coil. When the key is on this relay...

If you have not downloaded the Factory Service Manual for that truck, now is a good time to do it. It will explain EVERYTHING you need to know about the gauges. Then you need to go to this thread: Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters -...