Boston Mangler's latest activity

Ive been looking at both of these options. How did the one from Leather and Dirt work for you?

This is a somewhat common repair in the Earthroamer (and similar) large heavy 4x4 rig world with the huge 42” MPTs I personally know 2 different folks that have used these in this application, successfully These rigs are 15k+ lbs so what I...

Order extra!! Seem every time I pop my hood I’m missing one of these. No signs or wear of the holes and nothing looks out of the ordinary Most were missing when I got the truck, replaced them all. Now a couple more have gone missing again...

Yes…. If no signs of problems with anything Can do the Idler and belt fairly easily but anything else it turns into a “while I’m in there” thing

I have a 2010 LC that had 211k when i got it I've been going through and replacing all wear items Before i owned it, it had NEVER been offroad, had been in SoCal its whole life, and used a commuter by a friends wife EVERY SINGLE rubber bushing...

@badsamaritan this so far appears to be a better option than the Grom

Speaking of swaybar thing and disconnects I’m intrigued by the idea of the pneumatic swaybar links that are starting to pop up more here and there (nothing for us yet though) Air down when Offroad for more give, air up on pavement for firmer...

In the main obd fusion page go to Settings->Purchase Extras and then click “Restore” in the top right corner.

Glad to hear it went well and you happy! I did the Grom stereo add on and for the $ I wouldnt suggest it unless you always plug in Its wireless connect is mind boggling bad, even after all their updates and such. When plugged in it works as it...

Tesa tape is where it’s at! 👍🏼

Before making any drastic changes, I’d get a second opinion if possible. The Firestone’s around here are subpar at best and very inconsistent My local one told me “oh, this is a 4x4 and a lot more complicated and we will need it overnight”...

Yeah, there will be mixed opinions here. Many here (and only here) claim AGMs are the devil and will never work with stock system. My Odyssey AGM lasted 3 years in my 100 series, then 4 years in my Tundra when I moved it over, so I don’t...

Mine is the "dummy" style, the Blue Sea ML-ACR. It's been on the job since early 2018. I like the satisfying "thunk" when it engages. But the smarter DCDC units weren't the thing back then.

How are they isolated/charged? If you have a DCDC charger that you can edit settings on, it’s zero issue, but if it’s a “dummy” isolator like a blue seas, than mixing is no good

Ok. That sounds like a valid point and i will leave as is. Thank you

Roger thanks. I kind of remember you mentioning this awhile ago It kind of drives me nuts. Any fix ideas? Spacers or maybe pieces of rubber in between spring and bulb?

For those with these lights… I put these on my 2010 Used all OEM parts, housings are perfectly secured to spec I feel the bulbs may be moving inside the housing when I go over bumps. The beam bounces a fair amount, both sides Anyone...

Buy a vehicle that compromises on-road handling/comfort for off-road performance because it has nice sound system and seats, then complain that it doesn't handle well on road? Makes perfect sense to me.

Fwiw, Moog does often (but not always) re-box 555 Japanese joints. They will need to be painted post install.

That would have probably been a better strategy. Oh well. Holes already drilled and I have the little tool.

Looks great! Interesting approach I use a cheapo set of body trim tools to pop them out. Works great. https://amzn.to/3HuqCId

I copied you. I also drilled a little hole to try to remove them without taking wheels off in case I don’t like it. I’ve had cars with this little tool before. So going to try this and see how it works.

I literally just scuffed the chrome with Scotchbrite and hit it with some matte black Krylon Fusion

Thanks. I dig it. Here was me testing various caps, to give you ideas:

That’s a great look.