Recent content by bmorgan

I'm currently helping a friend with their 200 with the same issue. I noticed corrosion in the fuse box on the driver's side. Anyone solve the issue? I have checked the fuses and found nothing. I am ready to either pull the radio or start digging under the steering wheel. If anyone has solved...

Since I found the mouse carcass, I thought I should look inside the fuse box. I pulled it all part and, besides a dead grasshopper, all was good. I rechecked the CANBUS voltages (high and low) and they were both at 2.51v - pretty steady. So I think that means we have a connected but not...

This is my first dive into a 200 series, so thanks for being patient with me. I know every bolt on an 80. I'm a complete 200 noob. I tested everything on the ABS ECU, verified power and ground, cleaned the pins, and rechecked with Techstream. Same outcome - all ECUs are talking but the ABS...

Thanks guys. I can assure you I did extensive reading on the subject. I've been on mud for 20 years and far enough along to have my own Techstream setup. I wouldn't dare come on here until I've done some leg work first. I read about some of these items, but I wanted to hear from the guys who...

Full disclosure: I'm an 80 series guy. But when your small town knows you are a Land Cruiser guy, you get all of them. So please excuse my lack of knowledge of the 200 series. Good to see Onur is still in the LC world! A friend brought over their 2011 LC200 with a little over 200k miles. The...

Probably too late, but I have a set in WNC I could part with. If you haven't acted on the set out of Austin...

Well, I think I MIGHT have finally found the culprit. Did some staring at it with a buddy recently and we were noting that the vibration seemed to be in the belts. So I just took the fan and pulley off. I laid a long screwdriver against the engine so it was steady and drug it along the flange of...

Correction - I think I did use the new cap and rotor. I don't remember. I was more worried about the new points. But like I said, I'm sure all the new stuff would have worked just fine. But the original electronics all worked - I just had a bad leak, so I really only needed the housing. I...

I used the original cap, rotor, and internals (points, etc.) If you are unfamiliar with the internals, I'm happy to help you set the points. Very easy. Just need a feeler gauge and a screwdriver.

No issues and no more leaking. So far, very happy. Of course, i used the original electronics but i don't have any reason to think the new electronics wouldn't work. Just make sure to set your gap.

Three/ four weeks. No issues.

If you travel in high water (over the axle) regularly, you are more likely to suck moly from your birf into your axle. The water hitting the diff means quick cooling. This creates a vacuum that the diff breathers can't keep up with. Living in South Louisiana, going through water over your...

Update: I replaced the OEM distributor with this one I found on amazon. $70. I changed out the electronics with the old just to be sure. I set the gap and put it on. So far it's working great. No more leak. I can FINALLY stop adding oil every week. And oil isn't being flung all over the...

I got it to work on one of my 80s but my other just won't turn off. I've tried over and over. Some think a larger grounding wire makes a difference.