bloc's latest activity

These typically get 1/8-1/4" longer toward the driver's side before they fail. Based on that I'd predict you having quite a bit of time before it fails even if left alone. Multiple thousands of miles, if not tens of k's. But yours would be a...

A VDJ should have the 4.5TD though.. I’m also curious what RPMs OP is seeing at 180

Have much rust? If not it’s pretty easy to pull the rear ABS sensors and inspect the ends of them for evidence of contact with the axle bearing shield, which would indicate rear bearing wear.

Looks like it only comes with the handle. Assuming yours is "Deep Blue MC" that would be 69210-60280-J0 for the handle, and 69250-60060-J0 for the driver's side lock surround.

Cleaning these involves a special solvent available at auto parts stores. I can't say I've seen anyone really needing to do this on a 200 though.. and I've been around a long time. I wouldn't have very high hopes for an amazon MAF sensor...

2021 LC Front pad retaining pin (4) 90240-06024 (no boots for the pins on the front) "fitting kit" includes a full set of anti-rattle and retaining springs 04947-60140 Separate, they are: pin anti-rattle spring 47748-60280 pin retainer spring...

That was my gut feeling on this. It sounds common given the frequency with which we see these on here, because people post asking for help or with their disappointment, but probably not even close to a majority of the engines overall.

The lid assembly will be one of these two numbers, I believe it is the first here, but there's a risk it's the second. 58905-60430-C5 WITHOUT(COOL BOX)&SEAT COVER MATERIAL-NATURAL LEATHER, BLACK, TRIM23, 25, 42, 46 1 58905-60430-C7...

No idea. It already has mostly new suspension, with plans to do the last bits (front LCAs and rear UCAs) soon. I’ve already put 16+ wheels on it to address the main thing I disliked about the appearance. The three primary things I’d appreciate...

Just got UOA back. 2013 LC. 225k on the engine/chassis, I have owned it since 105k. Third radiator.. I did the first swap before the new design was released, but none of them failed. Coolant changed at 105 and 175k mi. No valley plate leak so...

A 12mm open-end wrench will fit over the square washer nuts too. But yes they can be tough to get to.

I have nice one made by another small CNC shop and it is awesome. I actually keep it clean in the recovery bag during trips because threading the appropriate sized soft shackle through takes a minute (so it just stays in there), and I wouldn’t...

In that case a lever-type indicator could help a lot with packaging. Yes it may be a challenge to find something ferrous for a magnetic base or solid enough for a clamp-type mount, but a mechanic that knows what they're doing should be able to...

2720s (aka -20mm supposedly IIRC) netted me over an inch of lift. Basically, it comes down to loading and how sagged your existing springs are. Fortunately they aren’t very expensive or difficult to change if you don’t like them. And you’ll...

It should be really easy to check crankshaft thrust clearance with a dial indicator. Any idea whether any of the shops have done this yet? Also you can send off a sample of the engine oil for analysis. If anything is letting the crank walk...

That is good info but I’m now remembering I described the quirk wrong. It’s actually that it just skips a single whole number at random. I could be cruising along at 73 then go to increase speed and it simply won’t select 74. Straight to 75...

This may be in the same category of my rig sometimes only adjusting cruise speed in 2mph increments instead of 1. Totally random when it does this.. but consistent enough to be annoying.

How low was the coolant reservoir?

My thread isn't comprehensive, it's more about a specific trick to get the pump to move once everything else is out of the way. Personally, I'd pull the radiator to get better access. Either way, here's the thread...

Agreed. Even within a given tire model the mileage difference between P-metric and LT-metric can be significant, despite the higher inflation pressures required of the LT, which should in theory increase fuel efficiency.

This. Also differences in tread shape and depth from used to new.

I do a halfass job of this after every mountain trip, winter or summer, usually before sticking a sprinkler under the rig for a while. The big holes inside the body mount legs under the front doors are a great access point.

It's supposedly to remove potential rust and crap that gets smashed into the hub/rotor hat face and can prevent the wheel running true. Most likely it's probably one of the millions of wheels they installed came off a car because someone ****ed...

Find a different shop. Or see if a different discount tire is as rigid about their BS supposed procedure.. I’ve found significant variability in how different locations stick to the corporate edict. One example would be one location near me...

Your rig “should” be far too new to worry about body mounts.. I’d also say there is a huge gulf between an unidentified noise and a significant safety issue. If you’ve verified that all suspension/drivetrain bolts are tight and ball joints...