Recent content by Ayune

The torque values came from the 2004 LC100 repair manual. I’m not sure of the LC80’s numbers.

The connector housings usually have a very small part number molded into them. If you can get close enough to the housing see if it’s still there. If not, the attached document shows the waterproof female connectors used in our vehicles and their part numbers. In the 1P (one pin) section, find...

The fob does its job well, its signal is simply not received well at the vehicle. As others have noted, after relocating the antenna the car auto-locks after the 30-second timeout before you can walk the new longer operating distance.

The coax cable you show would work, just try to keep the lengths of the red & black wires short. Also, that coax cable is available in a female SMA version that wouldn’t need an extra adapter at the antenna: This is the SMA male antenna that you’d need from Digi-Key...

The butt/crimp connector should be fine, there are hundreds of other crimp connections that aren’t soldered, and it’s low-current.

The copper under the blue circle is not ground, it’s the same as where you’ll solder the center wire of the coax cable. The two orange circles below show good places to scrape & expose the ground plane on your board.

@MechE30 Many different colors but they all start with 75441-60500.

The emblem has two plastic alignment posts on the back, so you won’t be able to use fishing line to remove the whole thing at once. I suggest using the fishing line on the left & right sides up to the posts, then maybe breaking off the sides at the pins. Then somehow dig one of the pins out of...

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~brake~booster~assy~w~master~cylinder~47050-60043.html

The blue wire is the power connection from the driver’s door power window switch to the three other doors’ switches & motors. Hook it back up and all should be good.

I doubt you’d be able to buy individual parts of the assembly.

Swing a rubber mallet at everything you can underneath. That’ll help reveal anything that’s loose, but needs a bit of persuading to reveal itself.

Gently apply the brakes while going over a bump. If the rattle disappears then it’s your brake pads rattling inside your calipers. Check for the aptly named “anti-rattle spring”.

…older and cognitively impaired.

Oh right, my bad. Thanks!