My sequence is: Stop with foot brake, engage E-brake, shift to N, release foot brake and let truck settle. Now truck is being held 100% by E-brake. Only then do I shift into P.
Be nice to our transmissions and they’ll be nice to us.
Yea, some of our trucks automatically engage the center diff lock when shifting from H to L (reason for the “pin 7 mod”), so maybe that’s the reason for his success.
Sounds like one of your front CV shaft splines has disengaged from the drive flange. Pop off the dust covers on your front hubs and look for a loose circlip. Search the forum for more info on diagnosing why it came off, like this thread: Real Time help with Land Cruiser Front Axle/retaining...
27060-50260 is the new OEM alternator you need. Perfect replacement for my ‘98. Reman has “-84” at the end so find the part without that suffix.
EDIT: Yikes, looks like reman is the only available option now. I wouldn’t worry about quality if purchased from a dealer.
Cost for 1998 booster assembly (47050-60010) is around $1300 from multiple online sources. Don't know they year of your truck, so could be a different part.
Cluster plugs correctly & fully mated? If I recall you keep turning the screws until they’re mated and then some… they don’t stop turning but that’s ok.
Hey there, it sounds like the tie rod ends may not be threaded on to the steering rack ends the same amount on both sides. Did you happen to count the number of threads showing at the tie rod ends before disassembling?
Check the wire loom where it passes from the jamb to the door. Wires have been known to wear & break inside the rubber tube. Here’s an example: Help diagnosing Master Window circuit? 1999 LX
^^^^ Check codes and look for a cylinder misfire, then replace the dead coilpack with either Toyota 90080-19027 or Denso 673-1303. Simple job needing only a 10mm socket. Buy direct from dealer or Denso website to avoid counterfeits from Amazon, etc...