My sequence is: Stop with foot brake, engage E-brake, shift to N, release foot brake and let truck settle. Now truck is being held 100% by E-brake. Only then do I shift into P.
Be nice to our transmissions and they’ll be nice to us.
Yea, some of our trucks automatically engage the center diff lock when shifting from H to L (reason for the “pin 7 mod”), so maybe that’s the reason for his success.
Sounds like one of your front CV shaft splines has disengaged from the drive flange. Pop off the dust covers on your front hubs and look for a loose circlip. Search the forum for more info on diagnosing why it came off, like this thread: Real Time help with Land Cruiser Front Axle/retaining...
27060-50260 is the new OEM alternator you need. Perfect replacement for my ‘98. Reman has “-84” at the end so find the part without that suffix.
EDIT: Yikes, looks like reman is the only available option now. I wouldn’t worry about quality if purchased from a dealer.
Cost for 1998 booster assembly (47050-60010) is around $1300 from multiple online sources. Don't know they year of your truck, so could be a different part.
Cluster plugs correctly & fully mated? If I recall you keep turning the screws until they’re mated and then some… they don’t stop turning but that’s ok.
Hey there, it sounds like the tie rod ends may not be threaded on to the steering rack ends the same amount on both sides. Did you happen to count the number of threads showing at the tie rod ends before disassembling?
Check the wire loom where it passes from the jamb to the door. Wires have been known to wear & break inside the rubber tube. Here’s an example: Help diagnosing Master Window circuit? 1999 LX
^^^^ Check codes and look for a cylinder misfire, then replace the dead coilpack with either Toyota 90080-19027 or Denso 673-1303. Simple job needing only a 10mm socket. Buy direct from dealer or Denso website to avoid counterfeits from Amazon, etc...
Since the rivnuts aren’t sealed to the body (just metal-on-metal) you need to seal around their edges, and inside the hole, with silicone. It’s not going to be pretty, but since the bracket formed the factory seal, once you remove it you need to reseal somehow with silicone.
You must remove the securing screw from the u-joint before inserting the shaft. Once the shaft is fully inserted you replace the screw. The screw occupies the groove in the shaft (circle below) and prevents the shaft from pulling out even if the screw loosens.
I didn’t design a version for the smaller Homelink opening, but it looks like BenCC may offer a solution: Builds - Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/benjamins-3d-prints-build.1171700/page-20#post-12751910
A diode would only be necessary if the Auto On circuit could not handle a potential 12V backfeed, i.e. if the lights were powered directly from the ECU. Do the lights fade in & out (ECU controlled) or simply switch on? If the Auto On is coming from a relay (I don’t have the LX wiring diagram...