Recent content by 88repo

this may be of interest: https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=bf9d42f0b514c758b1514f252ea9120f&topic=100575.0 here's another: https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=104633.0

Just for reference, this area of firewall patch had some major oil canning after filling spot weld holes and some straightening, drove me nuts. Think I did 2 or 3 torch-hammer-dolly shrinks before it fully tightened up. Hopefully the wet rag thing works out. If not, don't let the thought of...

A heat shrink (or two or three) will take care of that o/c'ing no problem. If this is your first attempt at it, plan all your moves out in advance. Things like handing someone the torch or setting it still lit down somewhere fast and safe and getting hammer and dolly into position AFAP. That...

Thanks for posting that 1st coat shot. Looks like just enough to add a little color and texture to it. Going 1 or 2 part seam sealer?

Now you can tell me how the first coat is supposed to look as I've yet to spray any. ;) I'm guessing somewhere beyond sandy looking and wet? How many coats went on the bottom? I plan to leave my underside in at least 3 or 4 coats straight epoxy. They say a coat or two of lizard skin within...

Back in my track day life I got elected to be the painter for the group. Decided to go positive pressure, thought being we'd rather have booth air leaking out than dusty air leaking in, fwiw. Real pleased with the results. Only complaint was how fast the filters loaded up.

going + or - pressure booth?

IDK, that grain structure looks pretty damn big to me. Did those cams come with the head?

This was for unmixed, still-in-the-can storage, not mixed RTS material.

Anxious to see what you think of the spi epoxy. I plan on using the same here as soon as I can make the most of it. The stuff ain't cheap. They say to go light on the first coat to avoid fisheyes. Also read you can prolong the shelf life by purging all the air out with argon before capping off...

Never could find those seals when I did mine. Ended up buying some EPDM rubber sheet I think it was from McMaster and made my own. Measured the depth of the counterbores for the seals and chose a smidge thicker material. Think I had around .030" or so crush. Also made up a full set of 304...

Used to work in a shop making DOT structures...highway signs. Every now and then stuff would need to be re-worked after it had already been galv'd and these were, or at least ones similar, were how they were doctored up afterward. Pretty decent stuff from what I remember, FWIW. edit: But...

Not sure about '81, but you may have one of these doublers to deal with sandwiched between the floor and the body perch, along with a boatload of spot welds. Probably added to beef things up a bit being it's at a mounting point. This is from an '84 thru '88:

Doing mine with cab still on frame.

Whenever I get to it, I'll be using crushed glass. Leaves plenty tooth for epoxy and supposedly safer than sand. Do your homework on how NOT to warp panels in the process. Many horror stories out there of panels getting wasted due to bad blasters. @ntsqd...Does dry ice leave enough tooth for...