Recent content by 86aggie

@cruisermatt is the man for those. Ask him about the weld nuts he will also sell you, so it is simpler to remove/install the radiator, for any reason, in the future. AMHIK...

About 15 years ago, a club I belonged to had it done in the full commercial kitchen as part of their annual cleaning. Worked well on all surfaces.

It went in fine per the mechanic. He made sure there was no twisting or binding as he bolted it in. Shroud is square. No offroading ever - I've owned it since it was new.

The AL radiators were Mishimoto. I stopped returning them and went to the CSF, which is brass/copper. I use the Toyota 50/50 red. The radiator shop repaired the CSF this past week, and the mechanic ran the engine for 2 hours to see if any new leaks showed up.

That makes this more interesting. I've had this 62 since it was new. 384k miles. Never off-road. I don't see that core support on your site. Is it available?

The CSF radiator is 'OEM specified Copper-Brass Construction'. I have been using Toyota Red since before I replaced the OEM radiator with the aluminum version. I understood that electrolysis is a potential issue with aluminum radiators, not copper brass. Is that correct?

Not sure about which metals they used. It is failing top and bottom joints where the tank and fins/coils meet

The CSF is all metal.

In the past couple of years, I have gone thru 4 aluminum radiators and in the past two months had my CSF radiator taken out twice for repair/welding(CSF/Rock Auto wouldn't warranty it because it is the model for a 60, not a 62). My mechanic said after this last time, he is wondering if the frame...

He's an old school mechanic. When he told me about the leaking plates, he knew the block was a Chevy(?) block, hence the plates. I have not seen it directly, but if I understand, he has the plates off, its the gasket that is hardened and difficult to remove.

The seal/gaskets on these plates were leaking and my mechanic says they are very hard and difficult to remove. He's been soaking, scrapping and chipping away. Any tricks that you have used to remove them?

I used a reverse thread tap to remove mine, and replaced them with SS screws.

If I am understanding what you want to do, put an inline power switch between the fused wire and the seat wire. Turn it on when you want to adjust the seat, and off when the position is fine. I wire tied my switch to the seat frame on the front, below the cushion

If the cover won't snap into place, one or more tabs on the underside have broken off. Last time I checked, Toyota still stocked them.

I cut up an old school coozie and wedged behind the mirror. Any closed cell foam would work. Make it large enough to be a snug fit when the mirror is extended out in one corner and load it into that corner. Adjust the mirror glass back to where you need it for the right view.