I've read a number of posts in the 100 Series forum about people doing a drain and fill with no issues with over 200K miles.
I have a 2008 I bought last year. The previous owner mentioned the transmission oil had been changed but I have no...
About to pick up my first troopy out in California next week. I have now plowed through every digital troopy build out there and I think I might be the first person come up with a different way. I also might be a dumbass. I want to do a bam bed...
It is a Toyota OEM part. Find another Toyota dealer or mechanic. I bet that dealer sells new jacked up Tacoma's with aftermarket lifts and oversized tires at a premium and doesn't have a problem pushing those.
Your gas cap was loose, you tightened it, after driving a while the lights went out. The original cause of the lights was a loose gas cap.
And I agree with @bloc I would not trust a MAF sensor purchased from Amazon.
HTH
Cleaning these involves a special solvent available at auto parts stores. I can't say I've seen anyone really needing to do this on a 200 though.. and I've been around a long time.
I wouldn't have very high hopes for an amazon MAF sensor...
Remove the sensor plug, remove the screws holding the MAF sensor in place, and gently pull it out. You'll do just fine with a screwdriver and a little curiosity.
Update: I have been engaging and disengaging low and CDL the past couple of weeks and observed must faster engagement and disengaging of both.
Hit another trail and another five hundred miles this past weekend and no issues or lights at all...
Sounds like you’ll have to limit your search to vehicles that are listed in the south, and that have CARFAX histories which indicate that they’ve lived in the south their whole lives. For a vehicle that meets those conditions, I’d fly across the...
I've tried to work with Richardson twice in the last few years....both fell through from subpar salesman. The last was 2 years ago when they hid the undercarriage rust on a 570. They also tend to add quite a few dealership fees to their price.
After almost 2 years, I think I’m finally done building the “NATO Cruiser”.
What really got me interested in Land Cruisers was seeing them in the bare bones/ utilitarian configuration especially when used by the UN and other NGOs. So my goal was...
The 80 is gone and the 200 is the next chapter! Well I have already put over 100k on her. Just switched from Toyo MTs to Toyo R/T pros. Love the pros!
Next mod is to replace the outdated head unit with a much bigger screen ! Any thoughts?
If the frame is solid....or a minor repair needed, and without the the spare tub it is worth in the 5-8 thousand range. Or at least this is the price I would be willing to pay. I always say if you are looking for a 40 project...try to get it as...
My .02 cents, I would buy a set factory wheels and 33x10.50s and sell those wheels/tires on FB. ASAP. It will ride better, steer better, look better and won't rub.
I would wager it’s the import of so many SA BJ40’s, more than 50% on BAT are Coasta Rica or Colombian. The market is saturated…..most here love them and keep them….most of the BAT’s are dealers looking to flip a quick dollar.
I see $1000+ worth of jump seats, $800+ worth of bucket seats, $200+ factory floor mat, nice lower dash pads, roll bar, LOTS of good interior parts in there, and a late model hard top and doors that look pretty good. And it runs and drives...
I would pay 8000, sell the tub to recoup some cost, make sure my tetanus shot is up to date and just continue driving that 40 as-is after going through the mechanicals. Seriously.
Lots of life left. you won't have to stress about the salt in the...
A back space issue, plain and simple. If it rubs either static or with a turning deflection try a 1/4" wheel spacer on the front to clear the tie rod ends.
I get the branding and modding thing. Just want to offer another perspective that even though our intents are good, from an outsider perspective, it looks tacky. Unless it's a complete job like a AEV or Singer. Anything less is just...