bloc

I have nice one made by another small CNC shop and it is awesome. I actually keep it clean in the recovery bag during trips because threading the appropriate sized soft shackle through takes a minute (so it just stays in there), and I wouldn’t...

In that case a lever-type indicator could help a lot with packaging. Yes it may be a challenge to find something ferrous for a magnetic base or solid enough for a clamp-type mount, but a mechanic that knows what they're doing should be able to...

2720s (aka -20mm supposedly IIRC) netted me over an inch of lift. Basically, it comes down to loading and how sagged your existing springs are. Fortunately they aren’t very expensive or difficult to change if you don’t like them. And you’ll...

It should be really easy to check crankshaft thrust clearance with a dial indicator. Any idea whether any of the shops have done this yet? Also you can send off a sample of the engine oil for analysis. If anything is letting the crank walk...

That is good info but I’m now remembering I described the quirk wrong. It’s actually that it just skips a single whole number at random. I could be cruising along at 73 then go to increase speed and it simply won’t select 74. Straight to 75...

This may be in the same category of my rig sometimes only adjusting cruise speed in 2mph increments instead of 1. Totally random when it does this.. but consistent enough to be annoying.

How low was the coolant reservoir?

My thread isn't comprehensive, it's more about a specific trick to get the pump to move once everything else is out of the way. Personally, I'd pull the radiator to get better access. Either way, here's the thread...

Agreed. Even within a given tire model the mileage difference between P-metric and LT-metric can be significant, despite the higher inflation pressures required of the LT, which should in theory increase fuel efficiency.

This. Also differences in tread shape and depth from used to new.

I do a halfass job of this after every mountain trip, winter or summer, usually before sticking a sprinkler under the rig for a while. The big holes inside the body mount legs under the front doors are a great access point.

It's supposedly to remove potential rust and crap that gets smashed into the hub/rotor hat face and can prevent the wheel running true. Most likely it's probably one of the millions of wheels they installed came off a car because someone ****ed...

Find a different shop. Or see if a different discount tire is as rigid about their BS supposed procedure.. I’ve found significant variability in how different locations stick to the corporate edict. One example would be one location near me...

Your rig “should” be far too new to worry about body mounts.. I’d also say there is a huge gulf between an unidentified noise and a significant safety issue. If you’ve verified that all suspension/drivetrain bolts are tight and ball joints...

Rear diff fill, drain, and front fill, are all the same gasket. Rolled steel, usually a silver color. Front diff drain is the larger copper one. Correct. -24014 is the front drain plug that gives so many of us trouble. You probably won't need...

Yep. Install thread below. I will say I've since removed the bumper skin a couple more times and would go that route vs in the thread saying it can be done leaving the skin in place...

I can’t compare different brands as I’ve only used what I installed, though I’m very happy with them. Probably my only compliant is the bracket is some kind of plastic and somewhat flimsy. Also you’ll probably just want to remove the bumper...

Looks great.. What was the process for having the odometer converted? Used some kind of service or company that does that?

Read into icon rear shock failures on our platform before you seriously consider running them. I’ve seen multiple instances of totally unacceptable failure modes from that company. They wouldn’t go anywhere near my cruiser.

Sure appears to block a lot of radiator real estate. And do the other two fairlead bolts not fit?

This makes me wonder what the Toyota break-in procedure is for new diffs before sale, if we don’t have to do fluid changes on them after install.

Were these aftermarket gears or Genuine Toyota?

I wouldn’t assume we have an RCV just because other Toyotas do. Generally in platforms that use that control scheme the compressor doesn’t have a clutch at all, the vehicle can use the RCV to do the same thing with much greater levels of control...

It’s more of a strainer than a filter.

Yep. Make sure your coolant stays topped up and find someone you trust to fix it. Risk of a catastrophic blow-out of the plate is basically zero, but if you let the coolant get low and the engine get hot your odds of a head gasket issue go up a lot.