Still same code I mention in post #4, error code 52 which links to front knock sensor as the easiest; after that starts getting harder to chase as it could be loose ground, loose connection of wire, faulty wire, or ultimately ECU fault.
Bad news, gents!
Had longer drive for the commute this morning and maybe the ECU finally realized it'd been reset.
Check engine light came back on as bright as ever.
The usual shut off and restart made it go away but I was really hoping the...
Finally found the time and better temperatures to do the knock sensor swap in the garage.
I ordered a 27mm deep socket to ensure I would have something able to hold a grip on it, as opposed to some adjustable wrench, and deep enough to not damage...
I eventually need to replace my harness as well lol. And yes it was the former sensor. I actually changed both knock sensors and I didn’t have issues with the new sensor in front of the engine, just the new knock sensor on the rear of the engine.
I ordered mine from Partsouq and I'm hopeful now it'll fix the issue.
Ali, where is that ECU? IN case my legit knock sensor doesn't resolve the issue I may go the same route and run new lines.
My '93 does the exact same thing!
Initial startup then once you hit ~2k rpm light comes on, but after ~10 minutes of warming up and then a restart the light doesn't come back. I know it gives code 52 and I know my front knock sensor is one of...
Come to find out - It was a bad knock sensor I bought at the auto store. I put the old oem knock sensor back and engine started running good again. No engine light.
Changing the window runs fixed all my slow window movement in any weather. They operate fine now and I don't feel they need extra speed. But it's cool someone is still making new things for these vehicles.
Ah, the classic, endless, no-winner-ever-found fuel debate.
On one hand you'll have folks tell you they've been filling up with a 60/40 mix of kerosine and cat urine for the last 30 years of their 2 year old vehicle, and everything's still...