Does anyone have the body and frame dimensions for the 4 door FJ45? My books only show the lpb and LV.
FJ45 4 door frame dimensions?
- Thread starter merbesfield
- Start date
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Are you talking about factory 4 - doors?
As far as I know, the only 4 door fj45s were the LVs - or aftermarket conversions ala Arkana style.
Please correct me if I'm wrong!
Cheers,
Matt
- Thread starter
- #5
Peter, I can always count on you to come up with something. So do we think the one shown above is the same as the Bandi 4 door? My guess is yes. I am trying to get a Bandi FSM and parts manual. Wonder if they are similar to the ones we are used to seeing?
The rectangular shape of the headlights in the schematic would indicate yes, they are bandeirante dimensions. I reckon!
Those are the dimensions for the Bandi.---notice the one in the diagram is not actually a four door but an extended cab version. If I recall correctly they have the same dimensions as the four door trucks. Here are some nice color images of the Bandi:
http://www.netizen.com.br/alpasa/2000/toyota/bandeirante/modelos.html
http://www.netizen.com.br/alpasa/2000/toyota/bandeirante/modelos.html
- Thread starter
- #8
Yes, I noticed the one in the picture is not a four door, that is why I was asking if anyone knew if they were the same. I would bet money they are. My other question is, where there major changes made to the Bandi from the Land Cruiser?
Where were Bandi's produced? Notice the front floor is the raised version vs. the older flat one. M
Where were Bandi's produced? Notice the front floor is the raised version vs. the older flat one. M
They were made down in Brazil. I am not sure how they exactly differ from a Toyota 45. The one to ask would be Johnathan Ward at TLC 4x4---the two 45 4 door pickups he has on his site were made from Bandi's
TLC Restorations-FJ45
TLC Restorations-FJ45
- Thread starter
- #10
What is the best way to extend a Land Cruiser frame? Use an original frame section and or additional steel over the section? I did research and found a couple of sites that professionally extend truck frames up in Canada. The process is taken very serious up there in order to pass inspection.
I was taught it was best to sleeve any new section of frame being added to an existing frame. By using an internal sleeve you can clean your welds and make the frame look factory. The purpose of the sleeve is to add rigidity to the frame and take the stress off the welded area due to the constant flexing of frames. The sleeve should carry several inches from the new section into the existing frame for adequate support.
To answer your PM here...
I have been involved with only one frame extension. That was on a tandem axle gravel truck. The frame was a single C channel about 10 to 12" tall. We cut it diaganally at near 45 degrees and rolled the rear axles back 24". We cut a piece out of another truck and spliced it in with large diamond shaped doubler plates on both sides of both welds. The purpose of cutting diagonal is to increase the weld and spread the load - same with the doubler plates. Done right, the weld is stronger than the original material and if you don't spread the stress around you can get cracking beside the welded area (heat affected zone). This stretch was easy given a straight frame bumper to bumper.
A 45 pick up frame starts at about 24" in the front, goes straight for a while, tapers out around the front cab mounts, straightens again for about a foot behind the cab and then tapers out again to the back to about 43ish". If you're gonna cut it I woud do it in the short straight section under the rear of the cab to stay away from the tapered sections. A sleeve as Bikerso said would do the same as the diamond plates but would be a challenge with the shape of the frame. The frame also changes in height along its length and the factory rivets might get in the way. A sleeve would make a better looking frame when done too.
You may want to get miker's opinion also. If you check his thread the talent is easy to see. Look around post 217 for some frame work. You could also replace a section of the inner C channel with your own that spans the splice fully.
I have been involved with only one frame extension. That was on a tandem axle gravel truck. The frame was a single C channel about 10 to 12" tall. We cut it diaganally at near 45 degrees and rolled the rear axles back 24". We cut a piece out of another truck and spliced it in with large diamond shaped doubler plates on both sides of both welds. The purpose of cutting diagonal is to increase the weld and spread the load - same with the doubler plates. Done right, the weld is stronger than the original material and if you don't spread the stress around you can get cracking beside the welded area (heat affected zone). This stretch was easy given a straight frame bumper to bumper.
A 45 pick up frame starts at about 24" in the front, goes straight for a while, tapers out around the front cab mounts, straightens again for about a foot behind the cab and then tapers out again to the back to about 43ish". If you're gonna cut it I woud do it in the short straight section under the rear of the cab to stay away from the tapered sections. A sleeve as Bikerso said would do the same as the diamond plates but would be a challenge with the shape of the frame. The frame also changes in height along its length and the factory rivets might get in the way. A sleeve would make a better looking frame when done too.
You may want to get miker's opinion also. If you check his thread the talent is easy to see. Look around post 217 for some frame work. You could also replace a section of the inner C channel with your own that spans the splice fully.
also ' Amadeus Bandeirante ' or ' Guiga 4WD Brasil ' would be a great resources to find out bandi infomation.
fiberglass body tubs:
FiberCar
https://forum.ih8mud.com/4489558-post44.html
fiberglass body tubs:
FiberCar
https://forum.ih8mud.com/4489558-post44.html
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I tried emailing from this site, but it doesn't seem to work. Any more info on this? Where did you get these prices?
I don't know what lauguage that is..I am assuming portugese or something like that...not even sure of the country.
Any help would be appreciated. 1st time I have seen a 4 door glass body and now I am more interested in the glass one vs steel.
Thanks, Matt
- Thread starter
- #15
I have never measured the inside dimensions of a frame. Given it is metric, has anyone ever been able to find a piece of steel that fits snugly inside the frame rails? The info I read indicated that the sleeve should be bolted using grade 8 bolts vs. welding? I don't think I would like the way that would look though.
You may have to use two angles and cut and sculpt a sleeve to fit - certainly within your skill set
I'm not trying to hijack this thread but does anyone have any more info on these?
Mark, does your contact know anything about these? Could it / and would you be interesed in combining shipments into 1 container? Possibly save on shipping costs?
Thanks, Matt