Rack and pinion (1 Viewer)

[BMThiker]

Looks like I'm replacing another rack and pinion next weekend. The original was replaced Aug 2011 with stock Toyota part. I'm losing power sporadically (independent of RPMs). Sam, my Toy parts guy, says they don't have any serviceable parts available, so straight up replacement is all I can do, to keep my daily running daily.

Pic from last time I yanked it out (only 30K miles ago). Surely, this didn't kill it...https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8412048&postcount=420

 

[1911]

Surely, this didn't kill it...https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8412048&postcount=420

I dunno Rick, I wheeled my FJC at K1 with no problems (in the steering - though it's where I lunched my first ADD actuator).

 

[BMThiker]

Yeah, I don't really think anything I did there would have tweaked it - we did make it 1000 miles back without any indication of a problem.

This weekend I'm gonna break down the rack to see if there is something clogging up the plumbing. I've got nothing to lose (but time) and about $700 to gain. The new rack has already been acquired, but if I can return it unopened... as Wooderson says "it'd be way cooler".

 

[helocat]

Rick,

#2!? Yikes we have done some rather not smart things to our FJC and its still rocking the original rack &P. 35's on 3.75" off sets too. Nuked a TRE at Summit last year, strong enough to bend that sucker. We do have some slop but not too bad. I do expect it to go one of these days, just from pushing the big tires around.

We blow ours, there will be a custom built Currie axle with D60 outers arriving at our shop shortly there after.

I think you have a good idea to go fishing for some debris that might be in the lines. Just takes a real small part to mess up hydraulics from the inside out. Like if someone used thread tape on a fitting. Real small part of tape loose in the oil can get'cha.

 

[BMThiker]

Well, I had every intention on pulling the rack & P. instead I wound up swapping a rear axle. The passenger side bearing took a crap and 90W was spraying everywhere. I picked up a spare rear axle and hub assembly from Stan (Hardline Fab) a couple years ago and turns out it was the side I needed. Took about 2 hours with the e - brake being the most time consuming part.

Note the hammer marks on the axle tube flange courtesy of Atlanta Toyota from the warranty work on my rear diff.

 

[spressomon]

Gotta love the "pro" mechanics!

Not familiar with the FJC rear axles but it looks similar to the SF 100-Series axles. FWIW and maybe not your culprit but my SF rear axles damn near crushed me with blowing seals. I kept blaming the overall design but eventually discovered inadequate air exchange within the diff. Long fast desert washboard runs were the culprit.

Knock on wood...ever since I drilled the housing out to 1/4NPT with 1/2" hose with mostly vertical run my issues stopped. Amazing how much air is exchanged when the diff housing gets heated...at least amazing to me. In the desert racing world not so much.

Just an FYI...YMMV.

Dan

 

[BMThiker]

I have an extended breather line running up to my gas filler door. This is the 1st time I've had to replace a rear bearing so I'm not terribly disappointed. Only warning sign was the sensor malfunctioning and lighting up my dash with Xmas lights a couple days before I puked 90W.

tappity-tappity from my Android device