Glow button electrical help, please

[Tofudebeest]

OK, I am not using the 62 transfercase, mine is manual, so the 4LO dash button is obsolete. My glow button was dash mounted, where the throttle cable knob resided. It was wired fine, I just don't like having to hold in the button for the 20 seconds...

So, I am going to use a spare rear window defog switch for my glow button, but don't know wiring for s***...

The stock rear window switch wiring from the harness looks like this:

I set my multimeter on 2000 Ω (red wire on VΩmA, black wire on COM), and tested the plug and got the numbers in the picture.

The back of that switch:

OFF:
R, L = 22
L, bottom = 1
R, bottom = 1

ON:
R, L = 22
L, bottom = 22
R, bottom = 001

And the wires to the glow relay (the red wire goes to the dash 20 second timer light):

Which used to be wired to this:

But don't care for the button too much.

So I will cut those wires and splice them into this plug:
Front view:

and rear view:

And that plug's third wire is not in there and I have these to choose from:

So that I can plug it into this:

So, which wire do I use (the double white or a red or green single) to complete the plug, and which of those wires that used to be run to the brass button do I connect to which of the three in the plug?

 

[Tofudebeest]

Bump. Nothing? C'mon, somebody must have some electrical know-how...

 

[FL cruiser]

I think my PM box must have been full.
For simplicity, i think i would push the plug back into the dash and not use it. I would get two wire term ends that slip fit your spade ends on your switch, and put the ends on the two wires that went to your old switch.
Attach them L, bottom = 22

You can get term ends that are insulated on the outside with a plastic covering.
Hardware store term ends can be covered with heat shrink or electrical tape.

BUT....Since you have kids, I think I would be less inclined to use the rocker switch.

Your existing push button momentary switch looks heavy duty. I guess it's probably giving you a finger ache.

I think way back when i gave you bad advice telling you to get a 10 or 20 amp push button switch.

Since you are using a relay, you probably could get by with a lighter duty (and much easier t push) 3 amp switch. It would be much easier on the finger.

 

[Lost]

cool-
i still havent figured out how to hook up my headlights
good luck with the electrical

 

[Tofudebeest]

I think my PM box must have been full.
For simplicity, i think i would push the plug back into the dash and not use it.

Which plug? This first one merely illustrates the function of the exisitng rear winder defog switch, which will remain the rear window defog switch. The next plug is a spare, which mates to the spare rear window defog switch I'll be using for this glow button. The 4LO plug back there will remain unused, in case that's what you were talking about.

I would get two wire term ends that slip fit your spade ends on your switch, and put the ends on the two wires that went to your old switch.
Attach them L, bottom = 22

You can get term ends that are insulated on the outside with a plastic covering.
Hardware store term ends can be covered with heat shrink or electrical tape.

BUT....Since you have kids, I think I would be less inclined to use the rocker switch.

I am not worried about my kids messing around with switches and burning up my glow plugs...

As for just going with terminal ends, why wouldn't you use a plug if you had one, just waiting to be used? I'm betting you're misreading my pictures...

Your existing push button momentary switch looks heavy duty. I guess it's probably giving you a finger ache.
I think way back when i gave you bad advice telling you to get a 10 or 20 amp push button switch.

Since you are using a relay, you probably could get by with a lighter duty (and much easier t push) 3 amp switch. It would be much easier on the finger.

I am just not enjoying this push button. I want toggle, man, toggle.

So, you're saying that the L and bottom spade connectors are the ones to use... OK, which wire should go to the bottom, the one with the red and white combo or black?

 

[Christian]

Hey! I'd be happy to try to help... But I'm no electronics wizard either though.

But I think it's rather simple actually if patience an logic is applied, (two things I loose out on when I build sometimes)

The original wires that went to the chrome button must be a +feed, a wire activating the relay and a wire for the light, activated along with the relay.

On your new switch there must be three wires too, one that feeds + to the switch, one that delivers voltage to the defroster, and a ground wire because the house of the switch is plastic, right? The switch must be grounded, otherwise the light in the switch wouldn't light up right?

So if you identify the two terminals on the new switch that gets connected when you flip the switch you should be able to hook it up just like the fancy chrome blingy but you are taking out.

I hope I understood you correctly and that this helps a bit...

 

[Tofudebeest]

It does. Figuring out what the ground is...is something I have never done before. Wiring is NOT my thing.

 

[toddm]

It does. Figuring out what the ground is...is something I have never done before. Wiring is NOT my thing.

Get your multimeter set to read ohm's (resistance), hook one lead to the negative terminal of the battery (best) or to a bolt that threads into the chassis, hook the other lead to your suspected ground wire. Make sure you are touching bare metal, not painted metal if you go for the bolt approach. You should read less than 1 ohm of resistance on a good ground. preferably .02 ohms or less. If you can't find a ground wire, make one by fastening a wire to the chassis. if you look near your fuse block you will probably see a bunch of black/white or white/black wires tied a single bolt. This is a grounding point for the body harness. you can use it.

Todd

 

[Tofudebeest]

I appreciate the help, but apparently my OP is confusing.

I want to know which wires coming from under my dash (the white and red together and the black) should be spliced to which wires on the plug so that when I connect the rear window defog switch, it will function as a glow plug toggle. The OP should provide all the necessary info to determine how the switch operates, and the fact that the 20 second glow dash light (red wire) is linked to the white wire should provide all the necessary info for how the glow system is wired up.

But, what do I know, as far as wiring goes, I am the opposite of a savant.

 

[FL cruiser]

s for just going with terminal ends, why wouldn't you use a plug if you had one, just waiting to be used?

Just for the trial and error of it all. If you made an error in wiring, and the wires are individual, it only takes a second to move them around to a different terminal on the switch. With the plug, you must cut and resplice wires.
Actually you can use the trial and error method on the switch. No matter how you hook up the wires, you won't ground out, cause sparks or melt wires or the switch.
Really you should be able to move wires around on the switch until it works and you hear the relay engage.

 

[Tofudebeest]

Just for the trial and error of it all. If you made an error in wiring, and the wires are individual, it only takes a second to move them around to a different terminal on the switch. With the plug, you must cut and resplice wires.
Actually you can use the trial and error method on the switch. No matter how you hook up the wires, you won't ground out, cause sparks or melt wires or the switch.
Really you should be able to move wires around on the switch until it works and you hear the relay engage.

That makes sense and is a relief to hear. The bulk of my hesitation is due to the fear of killing a switch, etc. I just don't want to fry anything.

 

[Tofudebeest]

Dennis?

 

[TURNMEOVER]

you paged me. I believe i solved you prob ?

 

[Chang-kuao-lo]

I just do a negative ground switch and have the witch interrupt the ground, instead of the positive. do the same with your indicator light.
below: top is the battery, to the GP relay. the negative side of the relay goes through the firewall to your switch and to a good ground under the dash, like a mounting bolt etc. leave the positive on the indicator bulb, and connect the negative on the switch. That way, you can run a large hot wire to the relay, and use as light duty a switch as you please.

Listen for the big relay "kachunk", and test that the ground bus is getting voltage. Make sure you have plugs that can handle 12V sustained voltage. Some are a super-glow type that runs on 7V, or something.