Aaaaaaaahhhhh!!!! Diff lock!!!! (2 Viewers)

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Jan 30, 2011
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Ok, I am a former (thankfully) Rover owner who happily owns a 95 LC with Lockers. In the last few weeks I have been able to gather so much info my head is spinning. Even the Yota dealer who change the oil on my Avolon looked at me like I had two heads when I spoke of 7 pin mods and the paperclip test. A few questions....Mine goes in 4l, but no CDL or ABS lights...If install the CDL switch from the dash is that it?...Do I have to do anything at the differentials or just intall the button and go? .... what the he** is the paperclip test and how do you do it? figure eights dont work! :confused:
 
The ABS and CDL dash indicators should illuminate automatically when you put it in 4Lo (as the CDL is activated automatically). The CDL switch should not be necessary. That said, installing the switch is simply an "install and go" mod if you want to lock the CD in 4 Hi.
 
Not the expert here just sharing; my center differential nor the axles would lock so based on what I read here on mud I pulled the 4Lo indicator switch located on the top passenger side of the transfer case (using a 27mm box wrench) and cleaned it out with electrical parts cleaner while working the detent ball up and down 20x's, banged on it a few times, then blew it out with compressed air and reinstalled it. Also cleaned the harness connector pins. Voila, the CDL and ABS indicator came on when I shifted into 4Lo. Then when I turned the diff lock dial the front diff lock light went solid (locked) but the rear continued to blink after 10 minutes of driving around on gravel. Next plan to put the rig on a lift and spin the rear tires to see if I can get the rear to lock. HTH's. Good luck.
 
Young padawan...much to learn have you. There are a lot of good diff locks won't lock threads on here. Mine have worked then not worked then worked again. I've pulled my from actuator and locked it with my finger, tested the actuator successfully, reinstalled, locked on jack stands then not on the ground. Even though I wasn't successful fixing mine (yet) I did learn a ton from throwing it up on jack stands and getting elbow deep in it. Plenty of resources on here to do anything you might need to or run in to.

But like others have said, the CDL and ABS light should come on when you drop into 4Lo.
 
The paperclip test is really easy. get a helper to sit in the truck and turn the key on and off as needed.

First test before this should be with the key in the run position and engine not running. Put the tranny shifter in Neutral (foot on the brake) and shift from H to L on the t case shifter. You should hear the CDL motor run for about 2 sec (engaging). If not read on.


1) crawl under the truck on the passenger side, on the rear of the Center diff (t case) you will see 2 sensors the 4Lo sensor is the lower one and slightly more towards the rear.

2)Unplug that sensor connection and holding the plug (harness side) insert the paperclip to bridge the wires (make sure this wire does not touch anything else as its live 12V).

You should hear and your helper should see two things, one you should hear the CDL motor run (engage) and the helper should see the CDL and ABS light come on.

If that is the outcome then you have found your problem the 4Lo switch is not working. Refer to posts about people cleaning them with brake clean and a 9V batter or WD40.

Now if you did hear the CDL motor run when you put the selector in 4lo then you need to test the CDL sensor. Also this is good if in test # one the CDL motor worked but the CDL light and ABS lights did not come on.

1) Again under the pass side of the truck move forward now look on the front extension housing of the T case. You will see the same style plug and sensor again, this is the CDL sensor.

2)With paper clip in hand do the same test as before, jumper the two terminals in the harness end.

Get your helper to tell you if they see the CDL and ABS light come on. If they do you know you need to do the same Re and re of the CDL sensor. Using DW40 or break clean working the ball in and out. I have read some people have luck using the 9V battery to put some current through the sensor during the cleaning process.

In my case both my sensors are not working so doing the 4lo test got the CDL motor working but still no CDL or ABS light. Shifting with the H to L shifter also did not actuate the CDL motor. I then moved forward and tested the CDL sensor and my CDL and ABS lighs cale on when I tested that one.

So in my case I need to remove both and see if I can get them working again.

Hope this helps, never was able to find a write up on it when I was looking so figured it out my self.

Jeremy
 
In my case both my sensors are not working so doing the 4lo test got the CDL motor working but still no CDL or ABS light. Shifting with the H to L shifter also did not actuate the CDL motor. I then moved forward and tested the CDL sensor and my CDL and ABS lighs cale on when I tested that one.

So in my case I need to remove both and see if I can get them working again.

Hope this helps, never was able to find a write up on it when I was looking so figured it out my self.

Jeremy

I had the same issue with my 97. The truck had never been put in 4lo, let alone having the lockers engaged! :eek:

I had to remove and clean both switches for mine to work. Cleaned with Electrosol, tapped it with a hammer, and also used a power supply and shorted ~300mA through the switch, opening and closing the switch. Now they work like a charm. It's not too much trouble to get out the switches although one of the connectors had a stupid tiny pebble in it preventing me from squeezing the clip. Had to crush it with channel locks to get it apart!

Good luck!

-M
 
My initial experience after purchase: Hammer tap followed by cycling from high to low about 50-60 times finally did it for mine but it was very intermittent. After that, found that dropping the transmission into reverse after switching to low (no CDL light yet) usually clunked it in. Ultimately, I just installed the CDL switch which makes things easier. For front/rear diff locks, turn the dial and start some lazy turns. From my experience, reverse seems to disengage things quicker.

Just my .02. :cheers:

--Mark
 
if your 95 is obd2, forget the paperclip thing and buy a scanguage. if it's obd1, see the post above.
 
I think the "clean and tap' approach is first for me. The switch would be trick, but while I do some four wheeling ( and cant wait to go in this rig) I also pull a boat once a year and use as daily driver - perhaps just getting it to work as it was made to would be great. .... I had a friend tell me that the switch would be useful to use the CDL in 4hi on a slippery boat ramp. Im trying to wrap my mind around that..It seeems that 4l, CDL w 2nd switch on would be better...? Interest note I recently shed myself of both my 99 Range Rover and 96 discovery....while both had more problems than I could list.. they were beasts on the trail and the CDL always worked perfectl! ....stilll thrilled with the change I love the LC!! Thanks all!
 
the front locker usually engages pretty easily (being fine splined helps), but the rears are usually what's sticky. mine was. there's a thread in here somewhere about reclocking the locker motor. that was my issue. has worked flawlessly ever since. took about an hour for me and i'm an electrical idiot. a few simple hand tools and a meter.
 
I think the "clean and tap' approach is first for me. The switch would be trick, but while I do some four wheeling ( and cant wait to go in this rig) I also pull a boat once a year and use as daily driver - perhaps just getting it to work as it was made to would be great. .... I had a friend tell me that the switch would be useful to use the CDL in 4hi on a slippery boat ramp. Im trying to wrap my mind around that..It seeems that 4l, CDL w 2nd switch on would be better...? Interest note I recently shed myself of both my 99 Range Rover and 96 discovery....while both had more problems than I could list.. they were beasts on the trail and the CDL always worked perfectl! ....stilll thrilled with the change I love the LC!! Thanks all!


I never had a problem at a slippery boat ramp with the Land Cruiser AWD system. I normally drop into 4L to be kind to the transmission when cold. Just gradually ease the RPM's up and pull the boat out. No need for high RPM's and spinning the wheels. That said the trailer has proper weight distribution with 15% tongue weight. Having done the pin 7 mod, when switching to 4L, the center does not lock allowing more maneuvering without windup and better throttle control. That also is a big plus for backing a trailer up a hill in tight locations.
 
Sand my friend is where you want traction in high range....torque digs you in!!
 
OK, last few questions! If I install the switch, I get that I can lock the center in 4hi. But if I cannot get it to automatically lock in 4lo NOW, will the switch fix that problem? Do I also disconnect the sensor for 4lo / cdl. ?
 
OK, last few questions! If I install the switch, I get that I can lock the center in 4hi. But if I cannot get it to automatically lock in 4lo NOW, will the switch fix that problem? Do I also disconnect the sensor for 4lo / cdl. ?

No, the CDL "dash" switch simply allows the center diff to lock in high range.

"IF" you also do the pin 7 mod, then low range is "unlocked" unless you use the CDL switch in the dash, this is a great way to back up a heavy trailer[low range without the center diff "locked"]

you still need to get the sensor switch on the transfer case working correctly no matter what.......



doug
 
if your 95 is obd2, forget the paperclip thing and buy a scanguage. if it's obd1, see the post above.

??? A scanguage can test the CDL and 4Lo switches? I think you have the paperclip CDL test confused with the OBDI code test on 95< trucks. We are talking CDL and 4lo switches here not OBDI code retrieval.
 
OK, last few questions! If I install the switch, I get that I can lock the center in 4hi. But if I cannot get it to automatically lock in 4lo NOW, will the switch fix that problem? Do I also disconnect the sensor for 4lo / cdl. ?

Spend 5min and do the test I wrote in my first response. It cost nothing more than 5-10min of your time and a .01c paperclip. If the CDL sensor is bad having the switch in the dash will make no difference. The CDL and ABS light will not light up and you will not be able to engage your diff locks.

Its time to move away from the computer for a few min and do the simple test then report back with your findings.
 
Spend 5min and do the test I wrote in my first response. It cost nothing more than 5-10min of your time and a .01c paperclip. If the CDL sensor is bad having the switch in the dash will make no difference. The CDL and ABS light will not light up and you will not be able to engage your diff locks.

Its time to move away from the computer for a few min and do the simple test then report back with your findings.

Agree, or follow my link to Slees description...Slee - Fixing a Center Diff Lock Indicator (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

Either way. I had the same issue, no light, switch engaged or in 4L.

Did the paper clipo test and light came on...re-assembled, thinking I was going to be buying a new sensor...and abra cadabra, now light comes on when I engage either switch or 4L.

Just needed a little massaging I guess (or possibly paper clip cleaned up some dirty contacts;)
 
Maybe I am just a freak, but this weekend, I stuck it in 4l and turned the magic button on the dash, lights all came on, drove it way deep into the snow, parked it for a few hours, drove it out of the snow, turned everything back the way it was before snow, lights went out, happy days.
Thank god I don't live in the northeast. no salt, no rust, no tornadoes, the only thing I miss is lake effect snow.
 

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