Squeezing 37's - clearancing fenders. (1 Viewer)

[bjowett]

My o' my, what to do when the new 37" tires won't squeeze up into the fenders with a 2.5" lift? Well, not wanting to drop the bumps more than the current 2" and not wanting to go taller, modding the fenders is the only way to go. Here is the start of the rear - pretty much flipping the lip inside out along with much of the material above it... sort of looks like the lip on a 55. The radius on the opening has increased roughly 1".... I started with the tree damaged side...

 

[Doc]

I really like that. Are you using the cheap baseball bat technique, or something more sophisticated?

 

[bjowett]

A bat would not touch this... to much metal to be moved to far. Vise grips give the first bend or two.... then about 45 minutes worth of hammer work, some grinding and sanding... I'll move on to welding it tomorrow.

 

[wob]

Its hard to believe that we will be seeing 100's like this in a few years. I love it!

 

[reffug]

DAMN dem some hardworking vise grips.

Keep it coming, looking schweeeeeet.

 

[ace10]

how about this

http://www.fenderroller.com/

although it lacks the banged-up, trail-pummeled bling factor.

 

[Curran]

Cool post, Brian.
Thank you.

 

[NCxj]

Looks good....

 

[inacoma]

My o' my, what to do when the new 37" tires won't squeeze up into the fenders with a 3" lift? Well, not wanting to drop the bumps more than the current 2" and not wanting to go taller, modding the fenders is the only way to go. Here is the start of the rear - pretty much flipping the lip inside out along with much of the material above it... sort of looks like the lip on a 55. The radius on the opening has increased roughly 1".... I started with the tree damaged side...

QUOTE]

Brian,

JJJ and I only needed to bend the fender lip inwards. that seemed to take care of most of the rubbing. JJJ took of his flares and bedlined the outside, however, I just trimmed my rear fenders so that when full stuff, they don't touch the tires (maybe just a hair). Currently I run 2" bump stop extension, and at full stuff, I get some rubbing (very slight, more of just a farting sound than anything real damaging)...I've stuff them tons and nothing has ripped off with what mods I have done to allow them to stuff. Then again, i'm running Krawlers and you are running Mickeys...and I'm running tundra rims with small spacers...and I'm not sure what you are runnning, so all our geometries, i'm sure, are very different. Once I get home, (i'm stuck in Ohare right now), I will see if I can get my webserver running, and you can then get gander at how I remedied the front rub as well. Front NEVER rubs and the fenders are still on. I think If I added 3" drop blocks in the rear, I wouldn't rub..but the rubbing hasn't bothered me yet. I may add 1/2" (on top of my 2") and work from there to see if I can minimize it...again, it's not bad at status quo.

Kumar

 

[bjowett]

My steelies are moved out .75"/19mm, so they might be out a bit further than your alloys.... what size spacer are you running?

The other benefit is the lip almost covers my tires again... and if I beef it with some extra steel, it will play with trail obstacles much longer than the stock fiberglass pieces did.

 

[inacoma]

My steelies are moved out .75"/19mm, so they might be out a bit further than your alloys.... what size spacer are you running?

The other benefit is the lip almost covers my tires again... and if I beef it with some extra steel, it will play with trail obstacles much longer than the stock fiberglass pieces did.

I believe my tires are only .25" outward from stock when all said and done...perfect for the amount of lift I have and for the amount of stickout I wanted (which is not noticeable). As the tundra rims are IFS thus, deeper dish than stock landcruiser rims. I used 1" spacers which were perfect size...as I still had enough lip left on the hub to ensure that my wheels had somewhere to rest (so that they would'nt be supported by lugs only...since our truck are hub centric, that was important to me).

oh...and I have plastic fenders...which work nicely to bounce in/out

...just found out i'm spending the nite here in chicago...why would they put a hub for united in a city with S#$@tty weather?

Kumar

 

[bjowett]

Moving along... stainless tube welded to lip, seam sealed...

Nice and smooth inside...

 

[shocker]

Wow, nice tree-proof fender.... and aesthetically pleasing to boot!

 

[stuck in GA]

Yeah that shows if 37's can fit with 3 inch lift than 35's can easily fit. Picture proof. Now I just got to save for 35's and gears. Thank god not the bigger lift.

 

[Curran]

Brian,
What did you do with the ends of the tube? Do they run all the way to the frame?

 

[bjowett]

Let's say tree "resistant" as the tube is not that thick....

The tube tapers down in to the rocker pannel and remains slightly open so I can wax flood the entire inside of the tube to prevent the standard steel body lip from rusting. I'll snap a pic later.

 

[Junk]

Brian, looks great so far. Thanks for keeping us posted.

 

[alia176]

How do you weld stainless to regular steel? What kind of wire/gas are you using? Or is it Tig'ed?

 

[bjowett]

I use MIG with argon/CO2... just used plain old wire (though 309 is recomended) with a little bit of Solar Flux, which prevents noogies in case the gas dosn't creep into the tube (the tube was sliced and slid onto the lip). Works fine for this application. When I MIG stainless exhaust tube I'll use a 308L wire with 304 tube, and I have a roll of 316L wire, too.

 

[shocker]

***BUMP***

Any progress/finished pics?