Help: Inner Oil Seal, Front Rotor Replacement Gone Bad

[latinoguy]

Over the weekend I spent a good part of my Saturday getting back into the front axle and replacing the dreaded inner oil seal on the driver’s side, which had not been properly installed on my first Front axle rebuild, 23k miles ago. (Thanks CDan for the parts, and El Mariachi again for the DVD..)

While I was at it, I went along and replaced the front rotors, repacked the front wheel bearings, and slapped a new set of 100 series front brake pads. (Also bedded the new pads and rotors…) Everything was supposed to turn out great, Murphy had another plan for me however.

The bad news:

• I managed to brake off a 10mm bolt that holds the felt seal gaskets behind the knuckle...(no gear leaking at the stated location thus far.)
• This one makes me really mad, don’t know how it happened, but it did, while putting back the passenger side’s caliper, I noticed that the 17mm bolt went as expected, but once it got ¾ of the way, it lost much of the thread in resistance, I knew I was screwed….so I reversed the bolt back out and confirmed that I had stripped it. (bolt head looks the same as the one on top.) I reinserted the bolt back in and it seems to be staying in place, but I know the danger it posses…

This is too bad, because I felt very satisfied that prepared with all the advice on this forum, and having assisted my buddy the first time, I did this on my own…

Now I am with the dilemma of what to do to fix the caliper problem.

A. Do nothing, Use Red Loctite on the bolt and monitor?

B. Tap, Drill knucke and caliper in a press or installed...(have no idea how to do this, do I pay a mechanic? machinist?

C. Helicoil, Per Landtank’s previous suggestions of “USE A HELICOIL!!!! It will be fine if properly installed…drilled with the proper size drill, tapped to their size, clean thoroughly with 90% isopropyl alcohol, both the hole and new coil, and then RED LOCKTIGHT the coil in place”

D. Just get a used passenger side knuckle and replace…(would suck getting back in there again..)

I am willing to go with the most practical solution at this point, and replace the knuckle during the next rebuild....


Felt seal 10mm bolt
Any ideas to deal with the busted 10mm bolt? Should I even bother If I just monitor for now?

As usual, any advice greatly appreciated.

 

[cruiserruf]

Knuckle

I feel your pain guy....I FEEL YOUR PAIN.

I would get a used knuckle. Or a brand new one from CDAN. This saturday i replaced the oil seal and tried to tap the 10mm bolt but no success. I drilled, rethread, etc and couldn't do it. it's pretty difficult because the 10mm bolt is so small. and this is the 4th time i've had to do the knuckle. long story. i'm settled on just getting a new/used knuckle.

I am willing to go with the most practical solution at this point, and replace the knuckle during the next rebuild....


Felt seal 10mm bolt
Any ideas to deal with the busted 10mm bolt? Should I even bother If I just monitor for now?

As usual, any advice greatly appreciated.

 

[Joe Egolf]

10 mm seal bolt

I broke one too, nothing bad happened. I was successful [lucky] in that I got the imbedded broken piece to unscrew out and the local hardware store had the correct new 10mm bolt..I have drum brakes on my NZ bj42.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Forget about the 10mm bolt - you've got a serious problem with that caliper bolt. You have to get that either helicoiled or drilled out and a bolt with nut on the back side. I might go with the latter if there's room.

DougM

 

[cruiserruf]

yes...the caliper bolt is a problem. you should be able to take that thing out with a easy-out. if not....

 

[strong_toy]

For the caliper bolt my first choice would be to helicoil, second choice to use a nut and bolt as IdahoDoug suggested. To drive the truck even temporarily, I would recommend finding a nut and bolt that will fit through the current hole without drilling which is better than no bolt. Make sure to replace the bolt with a graded bolt (for strength) and not just a standard bolt.

For the 10mm bolt it is probably not too bad, but I would recommend using a cobalt drill and good bolt extractor to remove the broken bolt. You don't have to do it immediately, but when you have time to remove the hub again.

 

[latinoguy]

thanks for the input...
I like the helicoil option better after more research.

HELICOIL:

I am not touching this...will have to pay a mechanic to do this.

What should I look for?

1. drill size diameter to tap knuckle housing?

2. Bolt size diameter to use? Can I go with same OEM 17mm bolt size?

WHAT IS the caliper bolt size thread pattern and length?

3. Drill size diameter to drill thru Caliper?

 

[IdahoDoug]

I'm confused. If you're not touching it, but will have a mechanic do it (good call, btw) why the questions on what drill to use, etc...?

DougM

 

[ThePookieBear]

He probably just wants to give the mechanic a headstart. Lots of people here know more about landcruisers than any run of the mill mechanic.

 

[IdahoDoug]

I'm kinda hoping he takes it to a mechanic who can figger out all by hisself what size drill to use, and how big a hole to make, ya know? Otherwise, I'm staying outta the Coachella Valley until the caliper comes loose and this truck is permanently off the road.

DougM

 

[agomez]

I'm kinda hoping he takes it to a mechanic who can figger out all by hisself what size drill to use, and how big a hole to make, ya know? Otherwise, I'm staying outta the Coachella Valley until the caliper comes loose and this truck is permanently off the road.

DougM

sometimes you are over the top.......

 

[IdahoDoug]

<snicker>. Just taking a break from doing my corp. taxes so I must be a grump....

DougM

 

[Sarmajor]

Helicoil

If you go the helicoil way which would be my choice then you can purchase a kit that contains all the required bits except for the taping drill. The correct tapping size drill will be detailed on the packaging and in the instructions. They are reasonable easy to do if you have a decent drill and some basic hand tools.
The biggest issue is identidying the correct thread required as there are two common M10 sizes. M10x1.25 and M10x1.5. Take the bolt in when you go to purchase the kit.

As for the 100 bolt in the felt seal area. It is in fact a 6mm bolt with a 10mm AF head. Unless it was radically cross threaded you should be able to get it out with something like a set of vice grips. If it broke off flush then you may be able to get it out with a HeliCoil 80-450 - Micro Drill-Out - Power Bolt/Screw Extractor- 4 Piece Kit.

All of this Helicoil gear is available from any reputable engineering outfit.

Cheers

Hedley

 

[latinoguy]

Relax DougM, Inquiring Minds want to know. I haven't had the need for a mechanic yet (knock on wood) I want to make sure I understand what needs to be done...

FWIW, I talked to 4 brake and aligment shops and none of them would touch it, (a couple were completely lost about this procedure...)

I'm kinda hoping he takes it to a mechanic who can figger out all by hisself what size drill to use, and how big a hole to make, ya know? Otherwise, I'm staying outta the Coachella Valley until the caliper comes loose and this truck is permanently off the road.

DougM

 

[cruiserruf]

just take off the knuckle and take it to a machine shop. i think it would be cheaper that way.

Relax DougM, Inquiring Minds want to know. I haven't had the need for a mechanic yet (knock on wood) I want to make sure I understand what needs to be done...

FWIW, I talked to 4 brake and aligment shops and none of them would touch it, (a couple were completely lost about this procedure...)