1FZ Crankshaft bolt help! (1 Viewer)

[boydmick]

I'm gathering all the tools together to install the TRD Supercharger on a 97 but I've seen conflicting info on the size of the crankshaft bolt.

What size socket fits the stock bolt? Is that different from the TRD bolt?
If it is different, what size for the TRD bolt?

Thanks in advance!

Boyd
(eagerly awaiting more power!)

 

[cruiserdan]

30mm to get the original off and 32mm to put the new one on.

 

[boydmick]

Dan has spoken!

Thanks for clearing that up.

Off to find some big sockets. . .

Boyd

 

[Scamper]

Thanks for clearing that up.

Off to find some big sockets. . .

Boyd

And a hefty breaker bar too. IIRC, a few folks have broken 3/4" breakers trying to do this...

 

[Rookie2]

And a hefty breaker bar too. IIRC, a few folks have broken 3/4" breakers trying to do this...

I think C'dan said he broke a 1/2" breaker and 3/4" was what you needed.

 

[SUMOTOY]

I er, heard this will work too....

I think C'dan said he broke a 1/2" breaker and 3/4" was what you needed.

As I did my SC install at a friends garage over a lot of beers, we ended up wishing we had a few of my shop tools. Now, what I heard can take off that crank bolt is to wedge the breaker bar under the PS frame rail and hit the starter.

Dogs are known to bark, bystanders are known to jump, and the bolt is ready to remove.

That's what I heard anyway. I'd never condone such butchery, nor think it to be safe to do so.



SJ

 

[scottm]

The starter trick is dangerous but effective. If you have a weak battery it may not have enough power to get the bolt loose. If you hit it several times in the same spot you can burn your starter contacts up. If you've got an extra set of contacts laying around you thought you'd never need, you'll be much relieved, and the bolt will come loose with a charger on the battery. At least that's what I've heard

 

[cruiserdan]

The starter-bump method will break a 1/2 inch drive. You need a 3/4.

 

[Rookie2]

The starter-bump method will break a 1/2 inch drive. You need a 3/4.

Meaning it twisted or broke off the end of the breaker bar, or it actually cracked and busted the square drive?

 

[cruiserdan]

In my case it broke the yoke that the drive pivots within. I know of at least two others that broke but I do not know the specific location.

 

[-Spike-]

Well, if I ever decide to put a supercharger on my truck (or remove that bolt for whatever reason) I'll be calling Tools-R-Us and thanking him again for selling me an Ingersoll-Rand 1" impact driver. 1500 foot/pounds plus of torque, oh baby!

-Spike (Now if I can just get a compressor to drive it, and an adapter for 3/4" drive sockets, I'll be golden!)

 

[Scamper]

That's why I whimped out and had the dealer put the crank pully on for me. But I didn't trust them with the rest...;p

Oh...and I guess it was a 1/2 incher after all that broke. I remembered that it was bigger than I ever thought would/could break!

 

[Rustydog]

Sheared off a 1/2". 3/4 is what you need.

MOST IMPORTANT PART THAT NO ONE HAS MENTIONED. DISCONNECT THE COIL WIRE. IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS AND YOUR MOTOR ACTUALLY STARTS YOU HAVE GOT REAL ISSUES AND DANGERS TO ADDRESS.

 

[Rookie2]

That's why I whimped out and had the dealer put the crank pully on for me. But I didn't trust them with the rest...;p

How'd you work that... tow it in?

 

[boydmick]

Crank bolt update

Well, I did it.

I was hesitant to try the starter method. I made my own SST and used a 3/4" breaker.


To get enough leverage I slid the handle from my floor jack over the breaker. No problem.



Stay tuned; tomorrow I put it back together. . . . .

Boyd

 

[matt 105]

Gday
For what its worth, I use a 1/2 inch drive impact socket (single hex) on a breaker bar against the chassis, and the "starter motor method". Ive always done it this way with out a problem. They seem to run fine, for at least a few minutes at idle, with out the balancer bolt if you forget to put it back in, by the way.
Cheers
Matt

 

[Scamper]

How'd you work that... tow it in?

I just drove it in, had them swap the pulley, then drove it home. At that point, the only difference was the new pulley, so no problemo. I did the rest of the install per the TRD instructions.

It wasn't getting the bolt off so much that concerned me, but retorquing it to over 300 ft-lbs was more than I wanted to tackle--I don't have that large a T-wrench, and I don't think I'm that strong (though I suppose a wrench capable of 300 ft-lbs probably has a six-foot handle ).

 

[scottm]

3/4" ratchet, 1" breaker, home-made pulley holder

 

[SUMOTOY]

Sheared off a 1/2". 3/4 is what you need.

MOST IMPORTANT PART THAT NO ONE HAS MENTIONED. DISCONNECT THE COIL WIRE. IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS AND YOUR MOTOR ACTUALLY STARTS YOU HAVE GOT REAL ISSUES AND DANGERS TO ADDRESS.

Where's the sport in that?! Very good suggestion, there was a beer in the way in my project. I might add that I heard flicking the key from start to off (like a 1second hit at most) accomplishes the same thing.

I like the homebrew tools! MacGuyver would be proud. TRD mentions nothing about which SST to use once you cover up the pulley with the SC one.

I wedged a 12mm socket on the torque converter (thru the rubber plug access hole) against the side of the bellhousing to torque the bolt back on, btw.

SJ

 

[Rookie2]

Boyd,

I trying to understand the home brewed plate method a little better.

Q1) In reviewing your second picture, the plate is bolted to the crank pulley with two bolts and the plate is long enough to hit against the frame rail on the left, so that when you apply counter clockwise force to the crank bolt, the crank pulley doesn't move?

Q2) So what's the plate hit on to hold the pulley while tightening the bolt?

Thanks,
Rookie2