Power Hubs problem on KZJ71

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baigaqeel

baigaqeel

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jun 21, 2010
Threads
12
Messages
47
Location
Pakistan
Dear All,
The Electrical Hubs on my KZJ71 are giving problem.
According to threads, the problem diagnosed to bushes screwed by the mechanic
What I did was fixed new modified bushes on both wheels


Then installed & tested them outside to see motor movement on both directions. It was ok


I also checked power through DVM at the plug at each wheel well.
It was OK i.e. +/- 12 VDC for 5-10 sec & switching when the Switch is depressed.
So the Hub Lock ECU is OK.
But after installation I find that Motor turns only to disengage.

Checked at slip ring it gets juice only to disengage.
Checked continuity b/w connector & at slip ring while shorting the connector to verify the slip ring hinges, it was OK
What is wrong as at Connector it is switching supply to rotate the motor CW & CCW.
The problem is same on both Hubs.
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hzjoe said:
i have a set for sale if you need them let me know
Click to expand...
Dear Bro,
I am in Pakistan & can have the set i.e. both power hubs complete in US$ 70 (used but working).
Pl note
I Changed one spindle in US$ 20.
Also have option to replace with manual hubs.
The complete set will cost US$ 60 (used AISIN HUBS with spacer etc)
BUT being DIY guy I am trying to sort out the problem with experts help.
 
Never had much luck with spacers and manual hubs... They work loose no matter what bolt / loctite you use. And that was on easy trips..
I changed the whole wheel hub with a 60 series.... worked fine.
 
Check that the gear in the hub cover is clocked to the correct position before installing the cover. If it is not clocked/timed correctly, you will not get the proper locking or unlocking action - it will go one way and not the other - or not move at all.

~John
 
If the hub end cap is off and you press the hub switch to lock, the motor will run for 6-7 seconds, and run backwards when you depress the hub lock switch.
NOW; if the hub lock switch is in the locked position and you turn the key on , the system does a check by turning the motors "one way only" to make sure the hubs are locked. You will only be aware of this if the end caps are off and you can see the little gear. if the end cap is fitted then the motor is energized but can't turn if the hub is already locked.
Cheers Kevin
 
Further checks did today:
Unplugged both connectors at wheel to isolate both motors, slip rings & spindles.
Checked voltages on both connectors one by one as should be, it was ok.
Next connected one connector & checked other wheel & vice versa.
Found out that the there is something wrong in left wheel as when this wheel free hub system comes into loop, the supply on other connector malfunctions i.e. only depressed position has juice.
As the supply from Free hub ECU is divided into two wheels so if there is a short on one wheel, it restricts the juice to other wheel also.
Now the position is
Left wheel connector disconnected,the gear on Right wheel hub rotates both CW & CCW when switch is pressed/depressed.
If connector is connected then the gears on both free hubs only rotate when switch id depressed.
This thing is messing up.
Question is
If i unplug the culprit wheel (Left Wheel) connector. Will the right wheel system work ?
How does it retract as when I depress the switch with engine running & remove the hub cover I find that gear has retracted the system to unlock position but the hub gear is still sitting inside i.e. engaged although nothing is in b/w & it should retract also i.e. move outwards.
Is there something wrong in vacuum also & if so how to check it
 
Hi,
according to the wiring diagram, the hubs are wired in parallel.
The output from the 4wd ECU comes directly to the hubs

I think that you should remove the hub and leave the slipring on.
Measure resistance and Voltage as you cycle the button.

Both should behave the same. Also, check to see that the slipring itself is not shorted, and also the connections that are made through the spindle. Someone might have trashed them. refering this post when i did my front axle service. the connection is made at the square shape metal surrounded by brown insulation at the end of the spindle.
attachment.php
 
oldblue said:
If your hubs are off Check that there is power to the slipring when you enguage and disenguage the hub lock button.
Click to expand...

Checked it as per wiring, there is no juice at one wiring.
what i did was made an extension plug cable & connected it after removing the wire connector coming from ECU.
While directly connecting the 2 wires at battery & swapping the connections I checked supply at slipring of Culprit wheel.
Pl note the other wheel wiring was disconnected.
What I found was there was a short at one of the wire as it was giving spark.
But the stupid thing is I screwed the wire connections
& now it is open.
So in my opinion one wire from spindle connector to the other end is open or is melted in b/w as it was grounding initially.
Now I need serious help.
Should I have to change the spindle or can I repair the broken wire.
I think the wiring from connector to spindle entrance is OK & the one which goes in the barrel is open somewhere in b/w.
 
Rummat81 said:
Hi,
according to the wiring diagram, the hubs are wired in parallel.
The output from the 4wd ECU comes directly to the hubs

I think that you should remove the hub and leave the slipring on.
Measure resistance and Voltage as you cycle the button.

Both should behave the same. Also, check to see that the slipring itself is not shorted, and also the connections that are made through the spindle. Someone might have trashed them. refering this post when i did my front axle service. the connection is made at the square shape metal surrounded by brown insulation at the end of the spindle.
attachment.php
Click to expand...

Pl read my below post & advise while seeing the picture u posted.
Is is it possible to replace the inner casing of spindle which has the 2 wire connections for slip ring hinges & if so then how.
Regards
 
Couple of years back I stuffed a wheel bearing so bad that the bearing spun on the stub axle, got so hot it cooked the wires in the stub axle.
These are ribbon wires , very thin and wide so would be very hard to repair, probily time to think of a manual conversion.or another stub axle.
 
I discarded the auto locking hubs a long time ago. Manual locking so much more workable.
 
Well if that is the case & I have to swap to Manual Hubs.
Then this Electric Hubs will be discarded.
I am looking at the possibility of drilling a hole in the cover & have some setup to rotate the main big gear which is coupled with Electric Hub Motor Gear This rotation will lock/unlock the hubs.
In this I way I will have to change nothing & the system will be functional manually.
If someone has done it then pl guide me.
Experts opinion on this idea is reqd.
Else as I seldom do the off roading so before that I will remove both covers & push the locking gear inside & vice versa to have the hubs locked/unlocked.
 
Hello Aqeel Sahab,

Are you sure that the Spindle wiring/connections are the culprit?

I would say just get a new used spindle after checking it out thoroughly,
and then open up the existing one to see what's is inside and take pictures and post here.
You are doing it as a DIY challenge, so the more you/us know the better.
you might have to take the brass bushing out of the spindle. the spindle is a seperate part # without further breakdown, so support from toyota is not there, but then repairing could be done, but the right person/tools are required. after all it is just a conductive material.

Good luck.
Ali.
 
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