im minutes away from buying an OME kit for my 60 and keep seeing anti-inversion shackles everywhere. what are the pro's and con's to getting these aswell. do they have to be welded?
thanks
thanks
tell me about "anti-inversion" shackles? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter tpattyII
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djawahir
SILVER Star
Do you plan on doing some serious wheeling? I mean, like the type that takes the wheels off the ground? If not, you can do the anti-inversion or the normal type of shackle. If there is even the slightest chance you would wheel the rig, just get the anti-inversions. The anti-inversion shackles are better in most cases. And as far as I know, I've never seen any anti-inversion shackles that need to be welded...
i've seen quite a few inverted springs that could've been helped with anti inversion.
as mentioned, if you routinely pick up wheels, get em.
as mentioned, if you routinely pick up wheels, get em.
If your springs are able to go inverted your shakles are too short. I cannot imagine why running shackles that are too short on a rig is ever a good thing.nuclearlemon said:
Even with antiinversion shackles you are putting a bandaid on your suspension. Instead of allowing the most flex possible you are straining the spring eyes and bushings by putting a bunch of pressure on them.
explain this some more... what is too short? factory length or shorter than factoty.
Mace said:
how long do you want them to be? at least two that i've seen inverted were running extended shackles...one running 2 1/2 with stock springs, other running 1 1/2 over stock with skyjacker 4".
the stock rig was runnign hard through a mud bog and popped the front end out.
other rig was crawling a rather difficult twisty section and put the right pressure to cause it.
both of these rigs sat very nicely with a slope in the shackle away from the other end of the spring.
i don't think longer shackles would've made a difference.
You dont want them to be so short that you run out of shackle travel before the spring fully compresses, but there is a point of diminishing return after that as far as function goes. Oh, and they can definitly be too long (the ones MAF puts with their 4 inch suspension kits fall into that category IMHO).
lowenbrau
SILVER Star
Mace is almost right.
Where the theory breaks down is when a rig is climbing out of a hole and bumps the shackels into the bank while the suspension is unloaded. It happens all the time around here when you are breaking ice on river crossings.
If you have an over length shackel or spring then you have about a 50/50 chance of bending the spring at the fisrt spring clamp when you invert. Some method of inversion proofing will save having to buy new leafs.
Where the theory breaks down is when a rig is climbing out of a hole and bumps the shackels into the bank while the suspension is unloaded. It happens all the time around here when you are breaking ice on river crossings.
If you have an over length shackel or spring then you have about a 50/50 chance of bending the spring at the fisrt spring clamp when you invert. Some method of inversion proofing will save having to buy new leafs.
I've been "acquiring" a lift in pieces and the shackle length is something I an not sure about. sofar I have the "habu"/terrain tamer rears leafs the heavy version and stock length rear anti-inversion. I've got the OME light fronts and stock length anti-inversions. How much longer/larger diameter on the arc are aftermarket springs? is it up and out (higher the lift the further apart the shackle eyes are) will stock length shackles create odd ball angles with the aftermarket springs?
Don't you weld "reverse" shackles on the front? And does not OME offer them too?
Just to throw more fuel on this fire.
Just to throw more fuel on this fire.
i think the "shackle reversal kit" is a system that basically moves the "working" shackle to the rear and the stationary pin to the front. factory setup is pin in back and "working" shackle up front.
and yes you weld the stationary pin holder on the front.
and yes you weld the stationary pin holder on the front.
Exactly, a SR flips the spring around so that the frame end of the spring is at the front and the shackle end of the spring is behind the front axle.
The only reason I acutally like SR is if you are smacking the shackles hard enough to bend a spring. Then you make a nice smooth rap for the item you are hitting by doing a SR.
A shackle only need to be as long as it does. there is no magic number for the length. It is whatever length is required to fully utilize the working arc of the leaf spring as it extends and compresses.
Another fix to springs that tend to invert is to move the shackle hanger.
The only reason I acutally like SR is if you are smacking the shackles hard enough to bend a spring. Then you make a nice smooth rap for the item you are hitting by doing a SR.
A shackle only need to be as long as it does. there is no magic number for the length. It is whatever length is required to fully utilize the working arc of the leaf spring as it extends and compresses.
Another fix to springs that tend to invert is to move the shackle hanger.
Thanks for the reversal explanation. didn't mean to Highjack, I use to think that I would do a reversal when I go OME, However I'm not really going to get even near crawling type trails in my rig..So the SR would be overkill, right?
I recently inverted one of my 2" extended shackles...no major dramas, but hell it made a noise when it happened.
;p 
;p
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you got it on upside downloomis said:I recently inverted one of my 2" extended shackles...no major dramas, but hell it made a noise when it happened.
nuclearlemon said:
Ditto those are upside down. Invert your anti-inversion shackles.
silly question (I ask these all the time, get used to it) but what difference does it make which they they go?
Are you guys saying that the shackle is upside down (top to bottom) or upside down meaning the triangulated side should be facing the front instead of the back....or both?
Are you guys saying that the shackle is upside down (top to bottom) or upside down meaning the triangulated side should be facing the front instead of the back....or both?
