'88 62 won't stay running

[jodajen2]

This is a daily driver for my wife. The last few months on a couple of occasions the truck dies at a stop. I found that if I could catch it in time, I could move it to neutral and rev it to keep it alive. It seemed to do this when we have been driving to several locations with short internals. If it was able to sit for longer time it wouldn't have the issue. I thought it might be bad gas because for about a month it didn't do it at all.
Yesterday it stalled at a light and would restart for more than 5 seconds before dying agian. It didn't seem to help to rev it this time. I let it sit for a while and then was able to run it for about a minute before it happened again. I found what looks like a 3/4 inch vacuum hose that was bad but that didn't help to replace it.

I have read several different post that have suggested things like fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, etc...
I drove it for 1 minute on my street before it died and had to tow it home. A neighbor said it smelled gassy when I drove by.
I am stumped as to where to start it feels like it could be any number of things.

Thanks for any input.

 

[jmarshall098]

i think that you are experiencing this problem because of the improper flow of fuel, the fuel is not flowing to the engine at a rate it should flow normally, so as you have mentioned that several posts suggested you about the fuel pressure regulator even i believe that this is what causing you this problem, please check your fuel pressure regulator.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

fuel filter and pulsation damper as well. these two are ahead of the injectors and could be causing problems if they are restrictive.

 

[billmc]

The first thing you need to find out is if/why it's smelling gassy, because that shouldn''t happen. Is it gassy out of the tail pipe, or is it leaking fuel in the back by the tank/filler neck/fuel lines, or up front in the engine bay?

 

[NYNick]

And of course check the pump...

 

[jodajen2]

The first thing you need to find out is if/why it's smelling gassy, because that shouldn''t happen. Is it gassy out of the tail pipe, or is it leaking fuel in the back by the tank/filler neck/fuel lines, or up front in the engine bay?

The smell isn't very strong when the truck is parked. If the fuel pressure reg was not working could it cause the fuel smell?

 

[billmc]

The smell isn't very strong when the truck is parked. If the fuel pressure reg was not working could it cause the fuel smell?

From what you describe it doesn't sound like the FPR, but who knows. Can you let it idle for a while in your driveway and have a whiff of the tailpipe, and all around to see where the smell is coming from. Shut the engine off and sniff around the engine bay. The pulsation dampers have been known to leak, it should be obvious if it is.

Bill

 

[jodajen2]

REPLACED the FPR no improvement.

From what you describe it doesn't sound like the FPR, but who knows. Can you let it idle for a while in your driveway and have a whiff of the tailpipe, and all around to see where the smell is coming from. Shut the engine off and sniff around the engine bay. The pulsation dampers have been known to leak, it should be obvious if it is.

Bill

I replaced the FPR and still no improvement. Got hold of a code scanner and check the code it was giving. I am a little confused. My scanner is a Actron brand and for my '88 it gives what looks like TCCS-E or TCCS-L
which stand for Toyota Computer Control system Early and Later versions. I am guessing it is the TCCS-L, if so it is giving a code 11. if it is TCCS-E it is code 2. Can someone confirm the 1988 is TCCS-L?

If so the list of items that are the potential problem is long where to start?
The list is the EFI relay, EFI Main Relay, main relay, ignition switch, faulty relay or switch wiring.

 

[bartocktheimpailer]

I had a similar problem with my 62, and it was sort of a come and go as it pleased thing that drove me crazy for a while... Im thinking if the problem isn't consistent it might not be a fuel problem but electrical... it was with mine anyway... Just to test to see if i had lost a ground connection i popped open my tail light lens and drove a sheet metal screw into the body of the truck and grounded the lighting system right there. totally solved the problem... err let me know to start looking really hard for a wire that got ripped off my frame haha... obviously you could ground that system anywhere, but i just thought the tail light seemed like the easiest spot... (mines not a daily driver so when i found the spot where the wire had been ripped off i just cut it off shorter to avoid the same thing happening and left it grounded in behind my tail light... still runs great... )

 

[jodajen2]

I had a similar problem with my 62, and it was sort of a come and go as it pleased thing that drove me crazy for a while... Im thinking if the problem isn't consistent it might not be a fuel problem but electrical... it was with mine anyway... Just to test to see if i had lost a ground connection i popped open my tail light lens and drove a sheet metal screw into the body of the truck and grounded the lighting system right there. totally solved the problem... err let me know to start looking really hard for a wire that got ripped off my frame haha... obviously you could ground that system anywhere, but i just thought the tail light seemed like the easiest spot... (mines not a daily driver so when i found the spot where the wire had been ripped off i just cut it off shorter to avoid the same thing happening and left it grounded in behind my tail light... still runs great... )

Thanks for the grounding idea I will give it a try.

 

[NYNick]

Forget the scanner and jump the terminals yourself and count the engine light blinks. A short piece of lamp or speaker wire will do the trick.

I'm betting it's a 41; TPS.

 

[slcfj62]

When I replaced my Fuel Pulsation Dampener, there were fuel stains all around it. It sits clear at the back of the engine, so if you are not looking you won't notice.

 

[jodajen2]

Forget the scanner and jump the terminals yourself and count the engine light blinks. A short piece of lamp or speaker wire will do the trick.

I'm betting it's a 41; TPS.

Now I am stuck. Got the only code it was giving, it was code 11. I did all the tests the FSM says for code 11 and all the voltage and continuity check out. There are four tests
Batt - E1 page FI-30
IG S/W - E1 page FI-31
M-REL -E1 page FI-31
+B(+B1) - E1 page FI-32

Where do I go from here. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, if it is a cold start it will start and idle for 1 minute then die. May restart but won't run for more than a few seconds. If I let it sit over night it will do the same, run for a minute and die. I also tried to leave the gas cap off encase a vacuum was forming in tank.

Not sure what is the next step.

 

[HBFJ62]

Gassy smell is most likely the fuel pulsation dampener. At least that what mine was and it took me forever to find it.

Agree with others that is probably fuel supply issue. So you got to start at the pump and work your way forward to the filter, FPR (which you have replaced), injection rail, and dampener.

I went through a fit of bad fuel pumps, two of which ran intermittently.

I guess maybe you could also check the throttle bottle sensor to see that is calibrated. What rpm does it idle at?

 

[jodajen2]

Gassy smell is most likely the fuel pulsation dampener. At least that what mine was and it took me forever to find it.

Agree with others that is probably fuel supply issue. So you got to start at the pump and work your way forward to the filter, FPR (which you have replaced), injection rail, and dampener.

I went through a fit of bad fuel pumps, two of which ran intermittently.

I guess maybe you could also check the throttle bottle sensor to see that is calibrated. What rpm does it idle at?

I didn't check the rpm at idle but is seems normal for 40-50 seconds then the falls like it is going to die. It will go back to normal and falls a couple of times before it dies. I will check the fuel supply issues tonight.
I don't feel like it is pump because it will run for a minute. It will restart and die in a few second but will start.

 

[billmc]

You can verify the pump by jumping the diagnostic block and turning the ignition to the run position. That'll confirm if it's running steady. However, even if it is, it might not be getting enough fuel if the fuel sock in the tank is crudded up and blocked (which will eventually ruin the fuel pump). Forget the fuel pulsation damper. There's too much mythology around here about that thing. It just helps keep waves from setting up in the fuel rail as a result of the injectors firing. If it were leaking enough to prevent your engine from running, you'd see fuel spraying around your engine compartment. I told you it wasn't your FPR, it's also not your TPS, (though that maybe coincidentally bad) but you could unplug it and the vehicle should still run in limp mode. Check your fuel supply, check your timing (did you adjust it and then forget to tighten it down well?), check for vacuum issues with a gauge.

Bill

 

[NYNick]

I like the idea of unplugging the tps to see how the truck runs. If it runs better, you know it then needs adjustment. Had a very similar issue, unplugged the tps and it ran fine. Adjusted tps afterwards and all was well.
Course was this after replacing the pump.
Good luck

 

[jodajen2]

You can verify the pump by jumping the diagnostic block and turning the ignition to the run position. That'll confirm if it's running steady. However, even if it is, it might not be getting enough fuel if the fuel sock in the tank is crudded up and blocked (which will eventually ruin the fuel pump). Forget the fuel pulsation damper. There's too much mythology around here about that thing. It just helps keep waves from setting up in the fuel rail as a result of the injectors firing. If it were leaking enough to prevent your engine from running, you'd see fuel spraying around your engine compartment. I told you it wasn't your FPR, it's also not your TPS, (though that maybe coincidentally bad) but you could unplug it and the vehicle should still run in limp mode. Check your fuel supply, check your timing (did you adjust it and then forget to tighten it down well?), check for vacuum issues with a gauge.

Bill

Thanks for the response Bill. OK not FPR, skip the fuel pulsation damper, not TPS. I will check the fuel supply and the vacuum issues with a gauge but I haven't even touched the timing. Where is the TPS to unplug?

 

[Texas993]

jodajen2,

Do you have a factory service manual?

Check your PM.

 

[billmc]

I'm not suggesting that you should unplug your tps, just that since you can run (poorly) with it unplugged it's probably not what's causing your problem. Also, if you have an inductive timing light you can use it to verify that you're getting good spark at each plug