NEW 60 owner wishing I had fuel injection....

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jonzen1977

jonzen1977

Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Threads
3
Messages
35
Location
Kansas City
Hey guys, first off I’d like to say thanks to everyone who contributes to this site. There is a TON of knowledge on here to sift through! Thank you!

I recently bought an 87 FJ60, 220k on it. It’d been a city cruiser all its life. I didn’t run very good at all when I got it. It had the stock tires on it, and wouldn’t go 60mph down the road.
I’ve since done the following:
NEW
4 core radiator
Hoses
Belts
Dizzy cap/rotor
PCV valve
Wires
Plugs
6 into 1 header
Desmog (everything is gone)
Weber (solex?) 34/34
265/75-16’s Nitto Grapplers on Wheelers black steels

Got everything done, the paperboard $hit manifold gasket, that came with the header, lasted all of a week, but I was tired of waiting on one to come in from Toyota.

FYI, Toyota has discontinued the gasket with the exhaust ports split. I found a nice gasket at NAPA for $24 (I think I just threw the part # away this morning! I’ll find it).

Got the gasket from NAPA installed it. It ran good except it idled at 1200 rpms, (wouldn’t drop) and if I tromped it, it’d stutter bad around 2500 and then run fine everywhere. It’d even pull 85mph with 32” tires and 2:73 gears.

I decided to try to adjust the idle mixture screw and get it to idle below 1k and hopefully get rid of the stumble.
The choke was holding the idle high. I adjusted the cam and fixed that.
I tried fine tuning the idle mixture, and now it’s all jacked up. Can’t get it even close. I thought it was a fuel filter, because I could see the fuel level in the old one, and could watch it go down. So I put a new filter on, and checked the screen in the carb inlet. Everything good there.
Then I thought the fuel pump was bad, so I put on an electric one (1-4psi) with a regulator and gauge. Was holding steady around 2.4 psi.
I’ve turned the idle mixture screw to every possible spot (increments of ½ turn) and seem to get nowhere.
I have to feather the throttle to take off, then it bucks and sputters, if I tromp it it’ll eventually smooth out some but not the way it was. Can’t even think about going up a hill.
If I hold the throttle a 1/3 open or so, I can watch the fuel pressure go down to 1psi or less. I can still see the fuel pouring into the filter, it doesn’t stay full; that doesn't seem right.
Is there a screen in the tank? I blew air through the fuel supply from the tank, and through the fuel return, both bubbled and sounded open. No change in the issues.

PLEASE HELP! I really can’t see it being anything but the carb, because it didn’t happen until I adjusted it. But it could be a coincidence.
Don’t chime in about how bad weber’s are, it’s a waste of time. I've read every thread about carbs and plenty of people’s run fine with a weber.
Some love them, some hate them. Right now I hate it, but the damn thing ran, and there is no logical reason why it shouldn’t run again!:bang:


Thanks
 
The thick gasket with the split exhaust ports is not available.... The standard one with oval/rectangle port for the two exhaust ports is available(the stock 2f gasket). Everything I read said to use one of the older ones (for an F engine), on the cheap header.

The dizzy has not been recurved.... But it ran pretty damn good before I adjusted the mixture screw....
The plugs looked good... I know it's not optimal, but it wasn't pinging and the plugs looked good. I've been running 91 in it to be safe.
 
How did you set the timing?

The factory timing is for a full smog unit. With the re-curved distributor, you can still use the factory timing marks. Without the re-curve, you will have to off of the a timing light with a degree indicator on it.
 
I'm going to try give JT Outfitters a call today and see if they can tell me the base setting for the mixture screw, since I didn't count the turns when i started. If that doesn't get me anywhere, I'll be pulling it off, and going through it to check for debris.

Anyone have problems with fuel lines from the tank? Are the supply and return the same length in the tank? (ie: can either be used for supply?)
 
The Weber has two idle jets that are pushed into jet holders that thread into the sides of the carb. There is a tendency for these to catch debris if you have been playing around with stuff. All it takes is a screwdriver to take them out and inspect them for junk. (They look like large screw heads) I'd start there, it sounds like that's where your problem lies, in the idle circuit. It's also possible (if this is a synchronos type Weber) for the two spocket-looking mechanisims the actuate the throttle plates to become misaligned with each other so that one plate is opened father than the other. At that point it's impossible to set anything. By the way, is this a 38/38? You said it's a 34/34, but I haven't seen that configuration. One more thing. Make sure you have connected the right fuel line to the carb. I saw one once that was drawing fuel through the return line, bypassing the filter altogether.
 
lehiguy said:
The Weber has two idle jets that are pushed into jet holders that thread into the sides of the carb. There is a tendency for these to catch debris if you have been playing around with stuff. All it takes is a screwdriver to take them out and inspect them for junk. (They look like large screw heads) I'd start there, it sounds like that's where your problem lies, in the idle circuit. It's also possible (if this is a synchronos type Weber) for the two spocket-looking mechanisims the actuate the throttle plates to become misaligned with each other so that one plate is opened father than the other. At that point it's impossible to set anything. By the way, is this a 38/38? You said it's a 34/34, but I haven't seen that configuration. One more thing. Make sure you have connected the right fuel line to the carb. I saw one once that was drawing fuel through the return line, bypassing the filter altogether.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions; I'll check them out and see if I have any issues like that. Although I think this carb is completely different than other webers. I've read it's actually made by Solex... Don't know for a fact though.
It is a 34/34, I think they're a pretty new carb. I bought if from JT Outfitters on eBay. Check it out here.
 
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jonzen1977 said:
I haven't had any Issues with JT Outfitters. Got a bunch of stuff from them, all at great prices and reasonable shipping. They don't make the carbs......
Click to expand...

Okay, just want you to be aware. The general sense I've gotten off of mud (never dealt with them personally) is not positive. That said, you can see in that thread there are lots of people who haven't had issues.
 
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Yeah, I appreciate it. Had I found that thread (or researched vendors first ;) ) then I probably wouldn't have bought anything from him, just based on how they have treated people.
I called them today in fact. They promptly answered and gave me the number to Weber. I left a message with Weber at 9:00am this morning and NEVER got a call back.....
 
3 more posts and you get an avatar, so, did the header and gasket come from JT too?
 
what part of KC are you at? There are a couple of us in the area that might be able to help ya out in person as long as the temps are above what they were today.
 
I'll second the dirt in the Idle Jets thing. I've run a DGV cousin to your carb on my glass buggy for years. The jet holes are tiny and it doesn't take much to plug them.
 
One more thing. Those air cleaners that come with the Weber kits don't flow enough air. If you remove it and take a short drive you will see what I mean. There are adapters that will allow for a standard round AC to be used, a 10" with a K&N element works well, flows more air and won't hit the other under-the-hood hardware in the area like the brake junk. Just an FYI...
 
I think your issue is lack of fuel. You say you can see that the level drops in the filter when you open the throttle. Hook up a temp gas can to feed the carb and see if your issues disappear. Start with the mixture screw 2.5 to 3 turns from fully in.
 
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