I have a 1972 FJ40 with a frozen heat riser in the exhaust manifold and I'm hoping someone can provide some advice for how to fix it. Thanks.
Frozen Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser
- Thread starter kvanoort
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Pair of pliers, pull it out. Seriously.
- Thread starter
- #3
heat riser valve removal
So, just remove the heat riser valve and leave the shaft, coil & case? Sounds simple enough. Thanks.
So, just remove the heat riser valve and leave the shaft, coil & case? Sounds simple enough. Thanks.
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On my '79 pig, the shaft always leaked and made a hissing sound so I removed the flap and ran a bolt through the manifold with a copper gasket each side. Took longer to warm up, but it didnt have the manifold leak sound that I hate... Well, in about 3 years it got REAL loud, and I found that the bolt (plain steel) had burned through to the size of a hair , and then broke in two... the original shaft was stainless, so I replaced it with a stainless bolt, which is still in there about 20 years later....
I own three cruisers. None of them ever had a functioning heat riser valve. In fact, two of them didn't have the flap at all and just had the pin frozen in place. I've always placed a cut and drilled a piece of thin steal (14 gauge or whatever I have laying around for body patches) and placed it above the exhaust gasket in a fruitless attempt to keep my manifold cooler. I live in the desert and heat is much more of concern than cold. That probably isn't necessary because exhaust isn't going to flow that way unless you have a leak. It might not even be advisable, too thick of metal and you fork with manifold alignment.
I did the steel sheet between the manifolds also, I suppose someday the sheet may burn thru, and then I'll get an exhaust leak above the gasket!
Snailwagon, you gotta quote the END of the song, the part about "...and maybe even a little ugly on the side...".
Snailwagon, you gotta quote the END of the song, the part about "...and maybe even a little ugly on the side...".
- Thread starter
- #7
Heat Riser Removal
Thanks for the comments and suggestions. Based on what I have read from searching MUD and the comments provided, I think that for now, I'll remove the riser flap and just leave the shaft. I'll also bit the bullet and purchase the $OR Stainless Steel Heat Riser Insulator - $31.05.
While looking at the exhaust manifold last night, I noticed a small crack around one of the exhaust down-pipe studs, so I quess I should also call my fabrication shop and ask their opinion on fixing the crack and removing all the heat riser pieces and then welding up the holes in the manifold too.
Thanks for the comments and suggestions. Based on what I have read from searching MUD and the comments provided, I think that for now, I'll remove the riser flap and just leave the shaft. I'll also bit the bullet and purchase the $OR Stainless Steel Heat Riser Insulator - $31.05.
While looking at the exhaust manifold last night, I noticed a small crack around one of the exhaust down-pipe studs, so I quess I should also call my fabrication shop and ask their opinion on fixing the crack and removing all the heat riser pieces and then welding up the holes in the manifold too.
- Thread starter
- #8
I talked with my fabricator today about welding up the exhaust manifold crack and filling the heat riser holes and he said no problem, just bring it in. I'm off to the garage now to remove all the riser bits and pieces. I think he mentioned a bronze material to fill the holes and that he has used it on turbo housings for years.
Why not go with a header and put that dinosaur out to pasture?
