Transfer Case LX470 99' questionable

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prharper

prharper

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Leesburg, VA
Vehicle has approximately 122k miles. A few weeks ago, I noticed a slight shudder when accelerating from stopped with the front wheels turned.

The center differential is not locked nor has it been except on a rare occasion in snow.

I had my 120k service done about 2 months ago at the Lexus dealer which included multiple fluid changes. I read on another site where someone had the same problem. The transfer case fluid was replaced (suspected wrong fluid was added) and the problem went away.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25755&hl=shudder


I tried that and after spending $150 for transfer case “service” at Lexus, the problem remains. If this is indeed a transfer case going bad, I would like to know how much longer I can drive under normal conditions, mostly highway. It’s a pricey part from Toyota/Lexus let alone the labor. Just trying to understand how long I have and if it could create problems with anything else in the drive train. Everything else works great.
 
Have you checked your u-joints and/or drive shafts? Have you disconnected each drive shaft and made the same test drive with just the front shaft and just the rear shaft for comparison? Have you checked the input and output bearings of the t-case for excessive play? The input bearing is relatively easy and inexpensive to replace if so. And as a last resort you might consider a used t-case...long story here but while I was just on a trip I ended up putting in a new t-case; but a buddy checked around and there are a few used t-cases available for around $500 plus about $100 UPS.

The LC t-case is a very durable t-case with almost no reported failures FWIW.
 
Can you explain how you narrowed the problem down to the transfer?

Could it have been the differential, transmission or engine ?
 
NMuzj100

I'm not certain it is the transfer. After doing some research, the shudder occurs when accelerating for a 1-2 seconds while turning. Example - Stop sign, turn left is more prominent then stop sign, turn right. However, it is consistent.

Spressomon has some good suggestions below. I would have thought the dealer would lube/inspect the driveshaft and u-joints during last major service interval. I’m just afraid to take it in and have them charge me for a pricey repair that may not be needed. All suggestions are welcomed. Thank you.
 
When my transfer failed it would bind on turns. I did three point turns on the drive and tyres were snatching and slipping as if the center diff was locked. I removed the front drive shaft and locked the centre diff so I could use it until I was able to swap a second hand unit in.

As well as the three point turns diagnosis, when I took the front drive shaft off, I tried turning the transfer output flange by hand and it would bind up and need turning with a bar to continue round.
 
Wheel bearings also like to act up when turning. Easy to test for looseness by jacking it up and checking for play in the wheels. A left/right difference is also normal for a wheel bearing issue.
 
I jacked it up. There is a slight bit of movement when grabbing front tires at 12 and 6 o'clock. Drive shafts and u joints appear fine.

However, the condition has become worse. I did a u-turn while driving and there was a LOT more shudder than before, felt like some grinding is going on. Also happens in reverse when turning. Truck drives fine on highway. I'm going to take it to the dealer on Monday AM (10 miles away) and crossing my fingers that it is nothing major.

Anything I should be aware of with the dealer on their diagnosis?

I have volume one of the 99' Lexus LX470 FSM but it is more about diagnostic codes. I ordered volume II which it won't be here until late next week. Bummed.
 
Get your CV's looked at. Boots like to poop out at that mileage and maybe you''ve got some garbage in there.
 
I had both the front left and right CV boots replaced at 88k. Stealership charged $1150 for repair. There is only 34k on these new CV boots.

I'll let you guys know what I find out later today.
 
We have a verdict.

Took the truck in to the Lexus dealer and had a service tech. drive with me. The center differential was locked and the light indicator was burned out. Geez. Of all things that I looked at except the switch.

We cranked some hard u-turns and circles in a parking lot. I asked the tech if he thought there was any damage and said everything should be fine. As long as it was not engaged in 4 wheel drive LOW on hard surface. He said that will result in damage to the transfer case but in High, it should be ok. Finger crossed.

I told him that I have only used the center diff lock on a few rare occasions in snow so don't know how the light indicator would have burned out premature. I asked his thoughts on replacing the light on the dash. He said it is labor intensive and being 10 yrs old, other bulbs could go out in the process of replacing this one. Bottom line, keep an eye on the physical switch. You can see it extend out on the dash.

I'm quite relieved and after reading all the posts here, more educated about front wheel bearings, fluid changes and brake rotor replacements and can now hopefully do this stuff on my own.

I hope to get another 100k miles out of the truck. Thanks to everyone for the feedback.
 
x2. I've removed the instrument cluster on my LX before and it was not difficult. Once out, the bulbs are easily replaced. IRRC, the most difficult part was physically reconnecting the wiring harness to the cluster.
 
A bit of :doh: is better than a big repair bill, wish mine had been that simple. Actual effort and :banana: to replace the bulb is probably quite low but it will be so many hours in their book and that's what they'll quote. On my 01 LC it looks much easier than it was on my 80 but I haven't actually had the dials out to say for sure.

I'm in the process of fitting ARB lockers front and rear (no OEM E-locker) and am seriously considering wiring the OEM CDL switch through the ARB isolation switch as a fail safe. It's that or make some sort of safety cover for the OEM switch because it looks way to easy to accidentaly press.
 
Where is the best place to get replacement bulbs for the LX instrument panel?
My FSM is on the way from Sewell Lexus.
Does the FSM show how to remove the instrument cluster?
Any special tools needed?

Thanks
 
Bulbs from Lexus dealer. Not sure if they are the same as Toyota ones as the instrument cluster is different. The FSM doesn't go into too much detail how to remove cluster. I think the little panel with the dimmer just pops off. The screws to remove the upper panel above the cluster are visible. There are a couple screws/bolts that hold in the wiring harness. And just a couple screws to remove cluster. This is all from memory so I could've missed something. No special tools needed.

I think 100 TD had a little trick to lining up the wiring harness but I can't remember what it was.
 
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