Replacing U-joints, driveshaft backwards

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Joined
Aug 25, 2008
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Location
Southern Idaho
Replaced front U-joints on my 2000 Cruiser. Checked the FSM for U-joints and noticed that both front and rear driveshafts are in backwards. The slip joints are at transfer case end, but should be at axle end. Only had the truck about 6 months, doesn't look like any major service had been done in past. Anyone know if any got out of the factory this way? Looked at some photos on this forum and only see them in the right way.
Anyone know of issues flipping them back the right way in terms of increased wear?

How to replace U-joints:
Did not have the special tools the FSM calls for to change U-joints. Made do with The Basic Toyota Fixture (BTF) - a brass bar and hammer. Darn Cruiser should come these and mounting brackets to hold them.
Wouldn't hurt to hit joint with a penetration spray
Note positions of yokes and grease jerks so you can get it back the same way, MAKE SURE you have good reference points because once its apart, if you forgot to mark something, well...
Position joint on a pair of wood blocks, or a piece of wood with a hole a little larger than bearing case, so bearing case goes between blocks or through the hole.
Drive top bearing of spider down with the BTF so bearing case groove shows on outside of yoke.
When it is far enough you can twist the bearing case. Don't drive too far, hard to get the top bearing case started back in hole to it drive out. Note: The bearing case is a smaller diameter on the spider side of the groove.
Pull out bearing case.
Flip joint over on block of wood.
Drive the exposed spider shaft using the BTF back the other way to drive the opposite bearing case out.
When it is far enough you can twist the bearing case and pull it out. The spider can now be removed from the yoke.
Repeat for the other side of spider.
Position spider in one of the yokes (based on reference marks you made earlier) insert the bearing caps in top and bottom of yoke getting them lined up on spider shafts. With bottom on block of wood using BTF carefully drive caps. Alternate driving top and bottom caps.
You want to position the spider so it is centered. Install snap rings. Use feeler gauge to check gap at snap ring. If it is outside tolerance different thickness snap rings are available from Toyota.
Repeat for the other yoke.
 
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The slip joints should always be at the transfer case, not at the diff prone to damage and dirt IMHO.
 
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Thanks 100 TD,
Other vehicles I have had always had slip joints at transfer case end so was kind of surprised when FSM said other way. So went through a lot of build photos here to see, all that I found had slip joint at axle end.
Your reasoning makes a lot of sense to me, besides mine are that way now.;)
Skidoo
 
Will have to check the manual, I was sure they all came with the rear slip joint next to tranny, maybe the front is the other way, but it doesn't matter as it's protected.
 
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The FSM I have shows the front slip joint at the diff end and the rear slip joint at the diff end on A343 vehicles but at the transfer end on 442F's! My UK model 01 UZJ100 (A343) has both at the diff end. The HDJ's got a 442F so that would account for the difference with 100 TD.
 
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