Exhasut manifold replacement

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Sep 4, 2007
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I have had an exhaust leak that has been getting worse for about a year now. With a little spare time this weekend I decided to see what I needed to do to fix it. I have read a lot about this issue here and was confident that I could do it myself and save some cash.

Let me start by saying that I was lucky that it was the passenger side had gone bad. After replacing o2 sensors on both sides, I think that this story would have been a little different if I had to work in the driver side. I will try to attach a few pictures that I took along the way.

I decided the leak was coming from the passenger side just by listening under the hood. Seemed very obvious. I got online and started searching for the parts I needed and found the best deal from a site called "DiscountToyotaParts". I ordered a manifold and gasket on Monday, they said it should arrive Friday. When Friday came and went, I checked on the status and saw that it was at least in town and would be delivered the next day.

Saturday I went out to the garage early in the morning, removed the right front tire and splash guard. I soaked the bolts down with PB Blaster and let it sit. My truck came from Texas and is very clean without any rust. By the way it is a 2000 with 2" OME, diff drop and 295's.

At around noon I went back outside and started removing the manifold. I have a decent collection of hand and air tools but only need basic wrenches to take it apart. 30 minutes later I had the bad manifold in my hand and was looking for the source of the leak. As expected. the flange around the front cylinder had cracked about a third of the way around the pipe.

Fedex finally showed up at 6pm. The parts had actually come from a dealer in Round Rock, Texas. What I got was brand new Toyota parts in the box. I paid $207 for the manifold and $15 for the gasket. When I opened up the packages I was surprised to see that it did not come with the studs for the collector. No problem, I'll just jamb nut the old ones and reuse them...or so I thought. The studs finally came out but the threads were destroyed. Ran down to the local hardware store and got some stainless bolts and threaded them into the new manifold and was back in business.

The installation also took about 30 minutes after I had sourced the hardware that I needed. Buttoned the splash guard back in and reinstalled the tire, fired it up and was quite pleased to have a brand new sounding truck!

I guess the reason I am writing is for any of you that need to have this work done, but don't want to spend whatever the dealers are charging, it is a very easy and in expensive way to fix a very annoying problem.
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Thanks for the write up. I need to do the same and hope it is the passenger side. Great work!

Were the new bolts used to connect the manifold to the exhuast?

Can you take a picture of the crack or is to hard to see?
 
Nice work & nice writeup!
 
Good point. I wonder what real manifolds would do for performance?
 
Yeah, the bolts I used needed connected the manifold to the exhaust pipe. The crack is a very thin hairline crack around the flange on the front cylinder. Consider yourself lucky if it is the passenger side.
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I agree with the comment about the performance potential of aftermarket headers. I would seriously consider some quality performance parts.
 
Very nice. Good pics too - bonus. Such a great view with the splash guard removed, is that what the manual stated to do?

I wonder if anyone ever tried using a product for such a small leak - JB Weld or something?
 
Very nice. Good pics too - bonus. Such a great view with the splash guard removed, is that what the manual stated to do?

I wonder if anyone ever tried using a product for such a small leak - JB Weld or something?

The JB Weld is a good thought, but you cannot get to the cracks until you remove the manifold. There is a thick flange that slides in place and bolts the manifold to the engine block. From what I've seem/heard, the cracks are almost always in the same spot. Mine were both cracked just like the picture.
 
Good point. I wonder what real manifolds would do for performance?

On the 22re in my old 4runner, I installed a TRD cam, but didn't notice any difference until I replaced the manifold, cat, and cat-back. It was like night and day, as if I got an extra 30 horses added to the stock 116 hp. It looks like there's enough room in there for a performance header.
 
JB weld or any of the epoxy resin based metal patch compounds WILL NOT work the metal gets too hot in this location.

This kind of crack is easy to weld repair and stress relieve and save the cost of the new part. I would also consider annealing the new manifold flanges prior to installation.
 
Yeah, the bolts I used needed connected the manifold to the exhaust pipe.

Do you remember the size of the bolt or store you went to for the SS bolts? I ask cause I'm getting around to my aftermarket SS headers and I'm doing a full SS custom dual down-pipe back. I was thinking about ordering from CDan but I'd rather get SS bolts and nuts.

LET ME KNOW GREGO!!!

How hard/expensive was it to tap out the old and put in the new SS engine to manifold bolts?
 

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