Just wired in a Drawtite ModuLite HD converter into my 2000 LX470. The OEM converter had gone south, plus I wanted to get a converter with it's own power supply so as not to drain off of the vehicle wiring.
The ModuLite Partno is #18190. It is the heavy duty unit that provides 20 amps per circuit. I went with the heavy duty kit because I have alot of running lights on my boat trailer and I didn't want to short change the running lights for amperage.
You will also need:
- Wire ties - various sizes
- 20 feet of red 12ga wire to supply power from the veh battery to the ModuLite unit (black wire)
- Electrical connectors - various sizes - 10ga, 12ga, 14ga
- A ring connector to attach the power wire to + side of the car battery.
- Foam padding to wrap the unit when replacing behind the light assembly.
Tools:
Voltmeter
Metric sockets
Wire stripper/crimper
Screwdrivers
Here is a synopsis of my steps:
Remove driver's side tail light by removing the two screws on the inside of the tailgate doorframe. Once the screws are removed, the tail light is removed by pulling the whole light outward on the driver's side of the car. It has two pins/grommets facing inward toward the side of the vehicle on the inside front of the light assembly. It does not pivot outward, it pulls straight out from the driver's side of the car. This is also how you change the tail light bulbs. I just let the tail lamp dangle from the wire, but you can disconnect it at the plug, just inside the tail light body opening.
The old converter unit, about a 3"x5" black plastic box was stuck to the inside of the body wall inside the tail light opening, just above the opening on the inside. It was just stuck there using double sided rubber tape.
I pulled the converter out, removed the wire jacketing and clipped the wires (green, green/yellow, green/black, green/white) on the vehicle side of the converter leaving the wires to the 4 pin trailer plug intact.
You will notice a white ground wire bypassing the converter. This wire will eventually be cut, spliced together and connected to the white ground wire on the vehicle side of the ModuLite unit.
I sripped the vehicle light wires originally going to the old converter unit and tested them with the volt meter running with someone at the wheel to do turn signals, brake, running lights and hazards. Labeled each wire. I didn't post the colors because I am not sure if Toyota changed them through the model years. I would have tested them anyway myself.
Once the proper green wire matches were established for the vehicle side and wired up to the new converter. I left the ground and power unconnected for later.
I then ran the red power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter unit. I ran the wire through the rubber grommet on the firewall just above the driver foot rest. I was able to gently push a coat hanger wire past the bundle and then through the gromment under the hood, followed up with the wire. pulled about 4 feet of wire through the hole. Put an inline 20 amp fuse holder in line, put the ring connector on and connected to the positive side of the battery. I left the fuse out as this was my final step.
Then on to tucking the wire along the drivers side front/rear door trim, then along the base of the rear side panel trim where it came out right by the jack. Fed the wire back and connected it to the converter.
Next I cut the white ground wire referenced above that looped past the original converter, spliced the ends together in a large connector and then connected these to the new converter ground wire.
At this point, I stripped the 4 wires on the "Trailer" side of the converter, inserted the 20 amp fuse under the hood and tested each circuit function with the volt meter. LOOKED GREAT!
At this point, I cut the other side of the old converter unit and removed it. I then tested the continuity of the wires going to the 4-wire plug under the bumper to make sure there were no shorts.
Then I connected the "Trailer" side of the new converter to the existing 4 wires running to the bumper.
Before tucking the whole mess back in the tail light hole, I tested the voltage at the 4-pin connector under the bumper. All looked good, snapped everything back together. Hooked up the trailer and HOORAY, works PERFECTLY.
Once I figure out how to post pictures I'll put some up of the completed job.
All in all it took a long time, but since I was messing with wiring, I studied, planned, studied some more then cut.
Hope this helps someone contemplating this job. I wasn't an easy job, mostly due to figuring out which wire was which on the vehicle side of the circuit and running the power wire through the truck. But I think I saved a couple of bucks installing it myself.
The ModuLite Partno is #18190. It is the heavy duty unit that provides 20 amps per circuit. I went with the heavy duty kit because I have alot of running lights on my boat trailer and I didn't want to short change the running lights for amperage.
You will also need:
- Wire ties - various sizes
- 20 feet of red 12ga wire to supply power from the veh battery to the ModuLite unit (black wire)
- Electrical connectors - various sizes - 10ga, 12ga, 14ga
- A ring connector to attach the power wire to + side of the car battery.
- Foam padding to wrap the unit when replacing behind the light assembly.
Tools:
Voltmeter
Metric sockets
Wire stripper/crimper
Screwdrivers
Here is a synopsis of my steps:
Remove driver's side tail light by removing the two screws on the inside of the tailgate doorframe. Once the screws are removed, the tail light is removed by pulling the whole light outward on the driver's side of the car. It has two pins/grommets facing inward toward the side of the vehicle on the inside front of the light assembly. It does not pivot outward, it pulls straight out from the driver's side of the car. This is also how you change the tail light bulbs. I just let the tail lamp dangle from the wire, but you can disconnect it at the plug, just inside the tail light body opening.
The old converter unit, about a 3"x5" black plastic box was stuck to the inside of the body wall inside the tail light opening, just above the opening on the inside. It was just stuck there using double sided rubber tape.
I pulled the converter out, removed the wire jacketing and clipped the wires (green, green/yellow, green/black, green/white) on the vehicle side of the converter leaving the wires to the 4 pin trailer plug intact.
You will notice a white ground wire bypassing the converter. This wire will eventually be cut, spliced together and connected to the white ground wire on the vehicle side of the ModuLite unit.
I sripped the vehicle light wires originally going to the old converter unit and tested them with the volt meter running with someone at the wheel to do turn signals, brake, running lights and hazards. Labeled each wire. I didn't post the colors because I am not sure if Toyota changed them through the model years. I would have tested them anyway myself.
Once the proper green wire matches were established for the vehicle side and wired up to the new converter. I left the ground and power unconnected for later.
I then ran the red power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter unit. I ran the wire through the rubber grommet on the firewall just above the driver foot rest. I was able to gently push a coat hanger wire past the bundle and then through the gromment under the hood, followed up with the wire. pulled about 4 feet of wire through the hole. Put an inline 20 amp fuse holder in line, put the ring connector on and connected to the positive side of the battery. I left the fuse out as this was my final step.
Then on to tucking the wire along the drivers side front/rear door trim, then along the base of the rear side panel trim where it came out right by the jack. Fed the wire back and connected it to the converter.
Next I cut the white ground wire referenced above that looped past the original converter, spliced the ends together in a large connector and then connected these to the new converter ground wire.
At this point, I stripped the 4 wires on the "Trailer" side of the converter, inserted the 20 amp fuse under the hood and tested each circuit function with the volt meter. LOOKED GREAT!
At this point, I cut the other side of the old converter unit and removed it. I then tested the continuity of the wires going to the 4-wire plug under the bumper to make sure there were no shorts.
Then I connected the "Trailer" side of the new converter to the existing 4 wires running to the bumper.
Before tucking the whole mess back in the tail light hole, I tested the voltage at the 4-pin connector under the bumper. All looked good, snapped everything back together. Hooked up the trailer and HOORAY, works PERFECTLY.
Once I figure out how to post pictures I'll put some up of the completed job.
All in all it took a long time, but since I was messing with wiring, I studied, planned, studied some more then cut.
Hope this helps someone contemplating this job. I wasn't an easy job, mostly due to figuring out which wire was which on the vehicle side of the circuit and running the power wire through the truck. But I think I saved a couple of bucks installing it myself.
