Ziplock's Rear Cable Locker - BROKEN! (1 Viewer)

[Behemoth60]

At some point this summer, the rear locker cable on Ziplock ('88 BJ74) 'froze'. I figured it was just sticky from all the mud and such. Then, the last two trips to the woods, the truck has been making some increasingly scary noises on the highway.

I spent some time looking into the situation today. Rear pinion was really loose. So, I engaged the rear locker to drop the diff (but the tire still spins with the locker engaged.. try hard to ignore that).

But, alas, with the pumpkin on the bench, it's impossible to ignore the missing teeth on the locker. The chunky bits spinning around in the diff are responsible for the bad noises and pinion problems.

Good news is that the gears themselves seem fine.

 

[lowenbrau]

It's remarkable that those big teeth fail before the small ones on the axle shaft do. Come on over tomorrow and you can help me trouble shoot the starter on my trucks and you can take the spare 80 Series third member from my quanset. It should have the parts you need.

 

[arnott1t]

Potlatch from e town here had an identical failure in his 80. He ended up with an entirely new locker but stuck to the e locker. In a truck like ziplock I wouldn't run a selectable rear. Get yourself a Detroit and never worry again about it not working.

 

[Behemoth60]

In a truck like ziplock I wouldn't run a selectable rear. Get yourself a Detroit and never worry again about it not working.

That ia excellent advice that I always give people myself but have never followed.

Loewenbrau had a surplus old locker that I scavenged for the locker teeth. Some new pinion bearings and I am back in business.

If I was facing the prospect of acquiring a new locker it would have been a Detroit. $700 from JTs.

 

[Hulsty]

It's remarkable that those big teeth fail before the small ones on the axle shaft do. Come on over tomorrow and you can help me trouble shoot the starter on my trucks and you can take the spare 80 Series third member from my quanset. It should have the parts you need.

The small ones on the axle shaft likely have more surface area.

 

[arnott1t]

That ia excellent advice that I always give people myself but have never followed.

Loewenbrau had a surplus old locker that I scavenged for the locker teeth. Some new pinion bearings and I am back in business.

If I was facing the prospect of acquiring a new locker it would have been a Detroit. $700 from JTs.

Or sell that really fancy cable set up to some die hard toyota nut, of which your aren't, and buy 2 detroits!

 

[Behemoth60]

Turns outthe actuator was frozen. The rubber boot was torn, it was full of mud and not moving. I got it working on the bench.

But while I was under there...

I pulled the pto shaft and straightened it. I lawn darted after blowing a shear pin and jammed the shaft bending the pillow block mounts. So the winch is working again.
But...
The shocks are shot.
The bam bar bushings are done.
The rear parking brake bell cranks are siezed.
Drum brakes are way out of adjustment.
One helper coil went "missing"
Rear wheel bearing was way loose.
Front pinion is leaking.
Locker sensor wires are ripped out.
Axle breather is long since missing.
And the thing has always desperately needed an anti sway bar.

 

[Behemoth60]

I desperately want to retire this truck, but I definately need to keep it running for another year.
So, instead of chasing these problems one at a time while laying in the dirt in the driveway, I've decided to do a little Ziplock refresh while I am waiting on parts for my Expo project.

1. New FOA remote reservoir shocks all around. I will need to build new mount pins for the shocks, I think.
2. Install Air Bag helper springs on the rear axles. Frame mount, and axle mount integral to the ubolt plate.
3. General rear axle maintenance.. brakes, bushings, wiring, adjust bearings, etc.
4. Currie Anti-Rock sway bars front and rear.

I am going to pull the rear axle to do the maintenance on jack stands in the garage. Fab up new shock mounts air/bag mounts as needed. Probably do the front axle the same way.
I actually have air solenoids from my now-written-off-Dodge-Helper-Springs that I never did install, so I will hook those up.

Then I can re-install the RTT and drive this thing around for another summer without that ridiculously top-heavy feeling.

I guess this is turning into another 'Repair Tippy's Tail Lights' thread (For those that received Toyota Trails back in 2002...)

 

[Hulsty]

Any particular reason not to go with factory sway bars?

 

[Behemoth60]

Any particular reason not to go with factory sway bars?

Maybe. In fact, I have a bunch of those parts in the back yard. With the spring-over modifications, the front sway bar certainly just didn't fit anymore and I removed it long ago.

That's a good idea though... I priced out those Currie Anti-rocks and that's a collection of cash I don't really want to spend if I don't have to...

 

[Hulsty]

ahhh spring over. Mine is still SUA and I use the front swaybar without issue. Rear I have not found one to work yet (60s rear housing)

 

[Behemoth60]

Well, I said I would do it!

Axle is pulled and on stands in the garage.

It's in terrible shape. Along with everything else... One of the goober welded spring perches fell off when I undid the u-bolts! Aye...

The 2004 HZJ79 Mine truck carcass in my back yard has a pair of front and rear anti-sway bars that look pretty beefy. I think I can make those work. I also found a box full of shock absorbers in my secret stash, so I will probably find something to work in there too. I think I can muster together a low budget refresh on this thing.

 

[arnott1t]

glad it is out and ready to get worked on. Get this thing ready for ice fishing...

 

[RockDoc]

Peter, could you remind us what mathematics yielded the broken locker? 13BT, H55F, Toyobox, 38" tires?

Any twisting of splines on the shafts? Toyota shafts or aftermarket?

An inquiring mind thanks you.

 

[Behemoth60]

Peter, could you remind us what mathematics yielded the broken locker? 13BT, H55F, Toyobox, 38" tires?

Any twisting of splines on the shafts? Toyota shafts or aftermarket?

An inquiring mind thanks you.

All of the above...
4.7 Toybox
Stock shafts.
41" tires
No twisted splines... did that in Rubicon in 2006 and that was the first thing I checked.

I think I brole it at the TBar on Sept long.

This is my first driveline break since 2006 actually. I was starting to think ziplock was invincible.

 

[RockDoc]

Thanks. My setup will be puny be comparison, knowing that it mostly stood up in Ziplock is reassuring.

 

[Behemoth60]

Tear down of the rear axle is complete. I even took the backing plates off. To clean them up.

Let's just say that I didn't waste any money on replacing the shoes too early. I am sure the only reason that they weren't worn right through to the metal is because they could not touch the drums anymore! It's always a sense of accomplishment to change the brake pads just before they wear all the way through!

I'll pressure wash the parts tomorrow, and get the drums machined.
I am going to replace the hard brake line on the axle too. It's has served valiantly and is overdue for an honorable discharge.
The axle side mounts for the Bam bar seem bent. I am not sure where or how, at first glance, but there is a lot more play in there than there should be. Not sure how I am going to rectify that at the moment...