Yet another emissions thread... sorry in advance...

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brandxmgmt

brandxmgmt

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I have been trying to get my 83 FJ60 to pass emissions here in Tennessee. So far I've added a CAT, replaced PCV, plugs, cap, rotor, air and fuel filters, oil and filter, and plug wires and added ISO Heat to the gas. I still failed miserably (4-5X acceptable ratings). So after looking at the emissions diagrams (and trying to trace my vacuum lines I found some major issues... like the fact the the EGR Vacuum Module is missing along with the ABV and several other parts! (I know... I'm not exactly up on emissions so I wasn't sure what all needed to be there. There is a smog pump and lots of other parts in the diagram... just not all of it.) The frustrating thing is that the engine runs GREAT and the exhaust looks and smells clean... no backfiring, run on, or anything. So my question is twofold:

1. Any ideas from this limited info how I can pass other than getting registered at an address outside of this county or buying all the missing parts - which still leaves me with a header that would not accept my EGR?

or

2. If that's not possible, can anyone tell me by looking at these pics what I'm missing so I can beg, borrow and steal those items and get it passed? I could also use any advice on the EGR/header issue.
http://www.kanemusic.com/FJ60Pics/7.jpg
http://www.kanemusic.com/FJ60Pics/6.jpg
http://www.kanemusic.com/FJ60Pics/5.jpg
http://www.kanemusic.com/FJ60Pics/4.jpg
http://www.kanemusic.com/FJ60Pics/3.jpg
http://www.kanemusic.com/FJ60Pics/2.jpg
http://www.kanemusic.com/FJ60Pics/1.jpg

Thanks in advance for any help. I know I should get the emissions book and am ordering it, but I kind of need to see what I'm up against and weigh options. I'd hate to spend a ton of money when it runs great right now.

Please feel free to rip on me for being ignorant about emissions... but any help would be more appreciated. This is the first post-smog era FJ I've owned and I'm loving it so far except for the smog issue.

Best,
e.
 
in some states once you have invested a certain amount into the emissions repairs (i.e. $450 in MD) you can apply for a waiver to get an exemption for the emissions tests (must be documented by original invoices for the repairs)...Perhaps Tennessee has something similar? You may want to check...
 
The deal in western washington is that you have to go to a registered emissions repair facility, and they have to do more than $150 worth of work. However, if your original emissions equipment isn't in place, it doesn't count towards the $150. Also, the certified emissions guys get audited, and if they don't follow the rules, they'll get their cert yanked.

My advice, worked for me a couple of times now, is to find a local emissions shop, an independant guy, not part of a chain. Talk to them about your situation, be reasonable, ask for their help. If you use good instincts in picking the right place, you'll probably skate through. At the least, they'll give you the straight scoop as to what you need to do.
 
I think it is going to be hard to pass legally without the ABV sending air down to the CAT to help burn up the unburnt fuel. I was told if this system is not working is probably not going to come close to passing. If you want to pass you will probably have to get some parts back together. But the price of parts for the system when they are missing like that can add up fast. Maybe find a junk yard with a cruiser or look on here to buy some parts from someone that desmogged.. That smog pump hooked up like that is doing nothing.You could hook up the outlet of the smog pump straight to the metal line going down the fender to exhaust pipe. If the smog pump is blowing good it will blow a lot of clean air into your CAT and help burn up the fuel and and also might mask it enough to pass for now.

Goodluck.. I know what a pain it can be to pass..
 
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I Just Went Through This Yesterday, I Failed 2 Times. I Had Already Done New Oil Filter, Plug, Wires, Cap, Rotor, Air Filter. I Had Found Some Of My Emissions Pieces Were Not Working Correctly. So It Tried A Couple Things. With A 1/4 Of A Tank Of Gas I Put Two Cans Of Berrimans (i Think That Is Spelled Wrong) In The Tank And Drove It About 15 Miles Getting Everything Good And Hot, Then I Retarded The Timing Until It Was Really Struggling Then Drove It Another 10-15 Miles That Will Cause It To Run Real Hot And That Crap Out Of There. Then I Pulled It On The Dyno For The Snif Test, The Dyno Test Will Be Easier To Pass Then An Idle Test, You Want To Make Sure That The Dyno Test Is Done If They Have That In Tenn. While The Hood Was Up I Popped The Hose Of The Vaccume Line On The Brake Master Which Will Suck Fresh Air Into The System And Passed The Test.
I Do Not Know How Insane All This Sounds But It Worked I Was Going Nuts Over The Whole Thing, I Just Tried Whatever I Could Think Of Or Whatever Advice I Could Find Here.

I Hope That Helps Some.
 
If you are doing the dyno test, and the speed of the vehicle is kept under 45 mph, the only trick that I can think of that will work is to run your smog pump directly to the air injection rail on the head (part #20 in the diagram attached). That's assuming you have an air injection rail and a smog pump.

Under 45 mph, the air injection system forces air into the chamber above the exhaust valve, IIRC. At 45mph, the air is diverted into the exhaust pipe to heat up the cat.

You'll also have to have a catalytic converter in place.

If you do that, and it actually passes (it has to pass a visual inspection as well) you'll need to pull that hose and plug everything back up. It's likely to cause backfiring, etc.

048F2.gif


I just looked over your pics, and I see a smog pump, but no AI rail. There's also a lot of smog stuff left on your system. If I were you, I'd get the smog stuff back in place and repair it. Buy the manual for the emissions equipment from Toyota, track down the used parts you need, and go from there. It's a wonder that thing's running right at all. God only knows what is connected to what in there. Whomever desmogged it did a real half-assed job.
 
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Thanks... I think I'm screwed. It is not the dyno test. I have an appointment with the mechanic from the State tomorrow to look it over. Of course the county I'm in is the only one in Tennessee without a waiver. They call it "Pass it or Park it." Bastards. The guy that built it was a Toyota mechanic in Utah. I'd almost bet he reads this site since he put a Wasatch Cruisers sticker on it. Maybe he'll read this and help me out. I'm assuming he knew what he was doing, because the rest of it works great and it runs great... but then he didn't have to pass emissions. I'll try getting the smog pump involved somehow. Thanks for the advice.

BTW - A friend out here made the exact same quote to me as in your signature (art fag/rednneck). Where did that come from?
e.



swank60 said:
If you are doing the dyno test, and the speed of the vehicle is kept under 45 mph, the only trick that I can think of that will work is to run your smog pump directly to the air injection rail on the head (part #20 in the diagram attached). That's assuming you have an air injection rail and a smog pump.

Under 45 mph, the air injection system forces air into the chamber above the exhaust valve, IIRC. At 45mph, the air is diverted into the exhaust pipe to heat up the cat.

You'll also have to have a catalytic converter in place.

If you do that, and it actually passes (it has to pass a visual inspection as well) you'll need to pull that hose and plug everything back up. It's likely to cause backfiring, etc.

048F2.gif


I just looked over your pics, and I see a smog pump, but no AI rail. There's also a lot of smog stuff left on your system. If I were you, I'd get the smog stuff back in place and repair it. Buy the manual for the emissions equipment from Toyota, track down the used parts you need, and go from there. It's a wonder that thing's running right at all. God only knows what is connected to what in there. Whomever desmogged it did a real half-assed job.
Click to expand...
 
brandxmgmt said:
BTW - A friend out here made the exact same quote to me as in your signature (art fag/rednneck). Where did that come from?
e.
Click to expand...

My best friend from college bestowed me with that one some years back. I'm orig from SW VA, and went to school in Roanoke, VA.

My friend lived out in TN for a while - Middle Tenn - I want to say it was a town called Finger that he lived in, but I can't really remember. He was really involved with the music scene for a while (and has been throughout VA, TN and GA) - knew a lot of folks in the Alt Grass scene.

Wasn't long after he gave me the "perfect blend of artfag/redneck" that I stuck him with "Neanderpaul." :D
 
OH - he was referring to you and not the Land Cruiser? My friend meant the Land Cruiser when he said it. Even more coincidental that he would come up with that.

Still looking for help if anyone knows any magic juju. Otherwise I could be in for some more wallet hurt like I can't imagine if I have to buy all the missing parts.

Thanks again in advance for any advice.
e.
 
I feel your pain

I posted this up back in July, but here is the jist of it.
I completly rebuilt my 83 60 in Feb. of this year. I studied all the smog systems and carfully hooked everything back up as prescribed. I was pretty sure that my Air Control Valve (the big POS mounted to the fender well) was toast, and was unsure of how good my air pump was, although it did put out air when it was idling and or reved up. I live in Colorado and we have inspections. I took it to the inspection station and it failed badly. I drove directly to NAPA, got a rebuilt air pump, went home and installed it. I rerouted the plumbing to run clean air from the air cleaner into the pump, and output said clean air directly into the injection rail at the exhaust ports.
Took it back to get reinspected and the guy (who is very experienced) said he had never seen one run as clean as this. I looked at the numbers and he was not kidding me, it almost looked like it was just air they were measuring. I'm now of the opinion that these are really the only components that really count in this system.
I see from your pics that you have an air pump, and even with headers you could still hook up
the injection rail. If the pump is working well that just might put enough clean air in the exhaust to pass it.
Let us know,
Toolman
 
This might be not be the best place to post this question, but on the subject of emissions and exhaust. I can't get mine loud enough. You might think me a redneck but I'm used to my old chevy bigblock with dual pipes running straight out of the motor. Now that I've discovered the Landcruiser for all my driving, towing and off roading needs I want to hear some thunder coming out of those pipes. All my friends make fun of me because my cruiser sits lifted with 33x12.50's on it and my girlfriends mazda 626 is louder then it. Now I've already put headers a high flow catalytic converter on it and a 40 series flowmaster with dual pipes and still no rumble. Any ideas?( That wont bust the wallet!)
 
i buhlee this is a common issue with de-smogged rigs crossing state lines... youre on the right track in taking it to a "State recognized" mechanic, but i bet youre gonna have to take it to a cruiser mechanic to get this to pass. hes gonna have to know what to do, with your limited smog related stuff, to get her to pass. good luck! -sean
 
FJ-BeAsT said:
This might be not be the best place to post this question, but on the subject of emissions and exhaust. I can't get mine loud enough. You might think me a redneck but I'm used to my old chevy bigblock with dual pipes running straight out of the motor. Now that I've discovered the Landcruiser for all my driving, towing and off roading needs I want to hear some thunder coming out of those pipes. All my friends make fun of me because my cruiser sits lifted with 33x12.50's on it and my girlfriends mazda 626 is louder then it. Now I've already put headers a high flow catalytic converter on it and a 40 series flowmaster with dual pipes and still no rumble. Any ideas?( That wont bust the wallet!)
Click to expand...


go back and buy a Chevy...lol! cruisers are made the way theyre made...nuff said. as far as yur friends making fun of you...ask them to follow you through the trail, and see who gets further... then you can laugh at them making all that un-necessary noise, while your rolling along the rest of the trail.
 
All I'm saying is that I am happy as all with everything the cruiser has brought to me but I would still like to get her purring. And dont worry I have embarassed almost every mudslingin truck I know off around my parts. " THE CHICKS ALL LOVE US AND THE MUD CAN'T TOUCH US"
 
Not so much that it helps me... but in case others have similar problems... The mechanic for the state of TN (despite being a smug know-it-all) checked out my CO at massive levels. He told me the only thing that could cause that would be the carb... and that the engine would be destroyed if I didn't fix it... which kind of makes sense. That much fuel must be just as bad as too little. In any case, he told me to get it rebuilt and said it should only cost $200 (meaning he hasn't bought TLC parts or paid a good mechanic to work on one). So I'm wondering if there are other alternative to deal with this problem since even if I get it rebuilt I still have missing emissions gear? (Which he didn't know about- I figured since he threatened me with state and Federal "tampering fines," I'd leave that part out of my report to him.) In any case I am going to my local mechanic, who I like but don't know well, tomorrow. Let's hope it's an easy/cheap fix. I don't think it's gonna be.
e.
 
I don't think you will pass with just rebuilding the carb. You need to get the parts to send air down to the CAT to burn up the unburnt fuel. You could route the smog pump output straight to the pipe before the CAT (if it is still there). And if they didn't know what they were looking at when they did the visual this would probably help you pass. But if they notice stuff is missing then you have to just get all the old stuff and get the emission back to stock.

Your smog pump is doing absolutely nothing now hooked up like it is and without it I don't know a way to pass.

Goodluck
 
Final report.... I've given up... after another $200 spent with a good mechanic (albiet a Ford fan) I am moving the Cruiser out of the county. I just can't justify tearing apart a great running Cruiser any more. My CO still runs high. I will probably get the carb rebuilt in the future if it keeps running so rich. But since I only live in Nashville part time and put like 300-500 miles on it a year - I'm over it. Maybe they should have a different standard for limited use vehicles so they could keep my registration money and keep me in the county. Final score: FJ60 = 1 , Davidson County = 0

thanks all for your input. I just can't deal with it any more.
e.
 
I don't know if this will help in Tennessee, but here in VA I registered my Fj60 as a truck w/ a gross weight over 13,000 lbs. I just told the lady at DMV that I was pulled over w/ a big boat trailer and the cop told me the 60 was resgistered wrong. Now I don;t have to pass emmisions. This was all fueled after miserably failing Northern VAs emmissions test.

And for FJBeast, maybe a good glasspack would work for you. When I used to live in the boonies, it seemed like the redneck's first choice (plus cheap) but if you are concerned w/ emmisions like brandxmngt, that may not be a good choice.. I put a flowmaster on mine and its not to loud. I think the intake makes more noise. The dog always gets excited when the UPS truck drives by since he thinks its the cruiser!
 
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