Build Yeller Gold
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- #682
WD-40 actually works really well on aluminum machining...
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- #688
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- #689
Shop time all afternoon, never get “enough” done but super happy for some progress!
As recommended by Jim I used RTV to seal the upper end of the hollow steering tube, it’s all torqued and done. Been a hot min since the steering wheel was connected to the shin bone.
As recommended by Jim I used RTV to seal the upper end of the hollow steering tube, it’s all torqued and done. Been a hot min since the steering wheel was connected to the shin bone.
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- #690
Wheel bearings on the front axle, spring guage BS or just tight as hell and then backoff method.
Impromptu poll of swine lovers, discuss…
Impromptu poll of swine lovers, discuss…
I like the torque to XX ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then back off 90 degrees and retighten to XX inch-lbs method...
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- #692
From another mud search, finding the right term to search can be tough some days.
Cheers
After installing hub/rotor onto spindle and ensuring it is pushed all the way in:
1) install thrust washer then the adjusting (inner) nut
2) torque adjusting (inner) nut to 43 ft lbs
4) turn rotor a few times
5) torque adjusting (inner) nut again to 43 ft lbs
6) back off adjusting (inner) nut until it can be turned by hand then torque it again to 48 in lbs (4 ft lbs) This is where some people torque the adjusting (inner) nut to 10, 15, or 20+ ft lbs.
7) check preload with fish scale (6.4 to 12.6 lb ft needed to get the rotor/hub to turn) Many people skip this step as being inaccurate and just go ahead and use the higher torque settings in step 6
8) install tabbed lock washer and lock (outer) nut
9) torque lock (outer) nut to 47 ft lbs.
10) bend lock washer tabs, at least one back onto adjusting nut and one forward onto lock nut
The main deviations from the FSM method are at step 6 using 10, 15, or 20+ ft lbs and skipping step 7 (fish scale).
Well, back in the day, before I owned the big socket, I'd knock those big nuts loose with a sharp screwdriver and a hammer. Tightened them up the same way. You had to choose a new ear on the big nuts to chew up each time. I figured that's why you got new ones in the rebuild kits. I'd pound them tight and loosen 'em a few times and call it good. These days I use the big socket and torque wrench on the nuts, don't use a fish scale. Just feel it.
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- #695
The new hubs on before dinner
Kinda thought the cone washers would have sucked in more
Kinda thought the cone washers would have sucked in more
Yes, the gap looks pretty wide. Wonder if some lube on the cone would let it sit deeper, or drive it around the block and re-torque? Maybe drop an 8mm deep socket over the stud and drive the cone washer deeper? Maybe they just do that when they're new...Kinda thought the cone washers would have sucked in more
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- #697
Thanks for those
Will be more than a min before drive anywhere but will keep in mind, I had read to put neverseize on the taper so there is some lube present.
Mine are flush FWIW. There is still a decent sized gap in the cone washer split so they might go in all the way with some gentle persuasion as @Pighead suggested. I probably wouldn't try over torquing the nuts to get them to move.
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- #699
Been picking away at finding and cleaning loose parts for the remaining assembly, my “winter project” has spanned so many years now some parts are elusive to find. So when I found the bin with the front axle bits I also found the lost caliper bolts that I already replaced with new, not the worst place to put new hardware.
Soaking in Evaporust and then rinse & in some cases paint.
So the front brake tee has me curious why all 3 ports look different?
that I already replaced with new, not the worst place to put new hardware.Soaking in Evaporust and then rinse & in some cases paint.
So the front brake tee has me curious why all 3 ports look different?
So it only goes on one way and you can't put it on backwards?So the front brake tee has me curious why all 3 ports look different?