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After more yard work this morning, Son came out and we tackled the huge accumulation of “stuff” in the shop, for 3hrs we unboxed, sorted and threw out as required. He has had several cars now over the last while and seems like the cardboard pile from Rockauto was a real tower…not to mention all the spare parts accumulated.

It still needs more time spent but I can actually lower the pig down to the ground now, and soon I’ll be able to drag the welder over to it…much needed.
 
Gotta buy some pipe to hang a muffler under this thing, as much as we all hate Bezo-mart…not sure where else to look?

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Gotta buy some pipe to hang a muffler under this thing, as much as we all hate Bezo-mart…not sure where else to look?
Are you going to TIG weld it?
Besides all that is implied with that, one more thing to pile on the list of considerations is that many of the cheaper 305 stainless kits are made of a thinner material. It’s doable, but I found that the welding was easier and the beads looked better on the thicker stuff I’ve had to buy to supplement the kits.
Several sellers on eBay, I think one of was called Khaos Motorsports. They also have a .com
 
Smart folks in the Sty, what is the name of this weld-on flange I need?

My truck had no real end on the down pipe, like to make the connection as secure as possible.

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Near as I can tell it’s a 1F manifold, so 2” in size.
 
Maybe this will get me off the manifold?

Do guys even run flex pipes on the front, not seeing them in build pictuhrs

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Pig progress this afternoon👍🏻, the morning was looking at another Mercury with son (it was a roach) and opening an early Father’s Day present.
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Calipers bolted on and torqued (had to look up the pad spring orientation) and started making brake lines.
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So now I need to finalize the location of front transition to soft lines, I’m thinking of bolting the tab to the captive nut between the U bolts, seems a well protected spot to make the transition.

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Yes, the gap looks pretty wide. Wonder if some lube on the cone would let it sit deeper, or drive it around the block and re-torque? Maybe drop an 8mm deep socket over the stud and drive the cone washer deeper? Maybe they just do that when they're new...
I think the re-torque after a few miles will snug them in more!
 
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