Wood body panels

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Well at least you guys still have your senses of humor. Just to clarify I don't plan on removing the old panels entirly like that guy with the aluminum one did. My plan is to cut away the rusted metal and bolt (using plus-nuts) the replacment panels on kind of like the ones you see out of diamond plate. There are some natural lines on the FJ that will make good stopping points. Admittedly the transition from rear side to the rear end may be tricky. I may decide to add accent trim on other parts but I don't want to add more holes to the body wich may cause more rust. Oh and yes I have built a couple boats and restored/repaired a couple hundred. Unfortunatly i don't really have any trails to drive on in my area so this thing spends most of its life on the road, things like tops prove more benifical than not.
 
I love pismo jims ride...if you make it look like his more power to ya bro....if the quaters are shot chop em and cap them....great for wheeling...good luck bro.
 
I wonder what that would do to the structural integrity of the trucks body?

Hmmmm...

I think that I have to vote with Jman. You're nuts, but do post pictures if you wind up going whole-hog on this thing. One man's hardship can certainly be another's entertainment. :D
 
I think this is the aluminum wagon you're looking for:

http://www.newcruiser.ca/

Also, with regards to the fiberglass/kevlar being stronger than aluminum, I have to disagree. This may be true in pure tension, but when you're referring to the rocker panel, it's going to get loaded differently. Fiber reinforced polymers don't do well with point loads or impact resistance (ie high-centering yout rockers on a rock). I agree fiberglass works well as a quick patch for rust holes, but for structural integrety, welded steel patches or new panels will always be better.

I've been toying with the idea of wood veneer for the 'woody-wagon' look, but this would be purely cosmetic.
 
mattlock said:
Well alright, so it has some shortcomings, but I am a cheapskate and just don't want drop the kind of coin it will take to replace rust with metal so wood it will be.

Dude, my family builds cedar strip kayaks....you're going to spend way more in time and wood than a few new panels from Liquid Offroad or even used parts from James at cruiserparts.net

My cousin actually approached me about building a cedar strip roof box like a Thule box. He was thinking he could sell them for around $500-$600...I told him there was a reason that Thule and Yakima made them from injection molding plastic. Same reason with Body panels for your 62....The best balance of cost and not looking f-ing queer :D
 
Well I already have the wood, which was free, and the cloth which wasn't expensive so all I need is time which I have. Like I said, if it doesn't work I can still use metal. As far as looking queer, I don't think it can look any dumber than the several obvious homejob welded fixes I've seen. And as far as being strong enough , I have a forty five year old wood and canvas canoe that I personally have paddled around 500 miles of mixed whitewater/flatwater and taken plenty of direst hits at good speed. I myself am amazed at its strength. I think it be fine. P.S> Who is pismo jim and does anyone have pictures of his ride?
 
I'm with Mattlock on the strength of the wood/West System epoxy. I've taken some good hits with my cedar strip canoes as well and when properly layed up cedar/fibreglass is quite strong (though I don't think cedar strip rockers will support his truck but then neither will sheet metal).
Would I make cedar strip panels for my truck? No, I don't think it's the best solution and my welding skills are half decent (after all I cut out and patched all the rust on the '76 FJ55 and that's some rust!!)
 
Not to be an ass, but do any of those strong hits have 4500 pounds of vehicle behind them?

I still think you're nuts, but sure, do it, post pics. It's better than driving around in a rust bucket. If it doesn't work out, you can always get some steel.
 
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