Wit's End Turbo Owners - Thread #2..... (1 Viewer)

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Anyone running an orange fan clutch? I just upgraded my condenser to a Nissen 94184 but I want more airflow from the fan.

I currently have a WE/Landtank modded blue fan clutch, but I have no way to verify how much air it's pulling other than coolant temps. Coolant stays locked in at 194 degrees when warmed up and in stop/go traffic according to OBD data.

Or should I pull the blue and replace with a higher viscosity oil? My wife's 2020 vehicle sounds like a damn jet on startup, my fan never changes sound. Not saying it's bad, but I'm chasing slightly cooler vent temps.

Radiator, shroud, fan and clutch all have less than 10k miles with varying install dates.

Probably not related, but I have engine vibrations when doing engine runs to test A/C. Only between 1400-1600 RPM in park. When I shift to neutral it goes away.
I have those same vibrations. The transfer case shift lever has a ton of vibration. I kept thinking it was engine related, but after my 8hp trans swap I am thinking it might be a harmonic with the transfer case hanging off the end. Toyota did put the factory vibration damper on there for a reason. Do those dampers wear out or go bad?
 
I have those same vibrations. The transfer case shift lever has a ton of vibration. I kept thinking it was engine related, but after my 8hp trans swap I am thinking it might be a harmonic with the transfer case hanging off the end. Toyota did put the factory vibration damper on there for a reason. Do those dampers wear out or go bad?
Vibration damper thread
 
Anyone running an orange fan clutch? I just upgraded my condenser to a Nissen 94184 but I want more airflow from the fan.

I currently have a WE/Landtank modded blue fan clutch, but I have no way to verify how much air it's pulling other than coolant temps. Coolant stays locked in at 194 degrees when warmed up and in stop/go traffic according to OBD data.

Or should I pull the blue and replace with a higher viscosity oil? My wife's 2020 vehicle sounds like a damn jet on startup, my fan never changes sound. Not saying it's bad, but I'm chasing slightly cooler vent temps.

I put 20K viscosity oil in my blue fan clutch. No cooling issues with original radiator (although I did cut a big ass hole in the hood for louvers sooo there’s that…)
 
Or should I pull the blue and replace with a higher viscosity oil? My wife's 2020 vehicle sounds like a damn jet on startup, my fan never changes sound. Not saying it's bad, but I'm chasing slightly cooler vent temps.

I'm assuming you have the turbo installed? My vent temps dramatically got colder with the a/c on after the installation of the Ron Davis radiator. I'm running the Blue clutch with 15k CST fluid and constantly seeing 190deg or cooler engine temps after the radiator was installed. Is your Nissen a carbon copy of the OEM radiator?

Try driving with the hood removed to see if your vent temps lower. Your idea of increasing the fluid CST with the blue clutch is a good idea given where you live.
 
Anyone running an orange fan clutch? I just upgraded my condenser to a Nissen 94184 but I want more airflow from the fan.

I currently have a WE/Landtank modded blue fan clutch, but I have no way to verify how much air it's pulling other than coolant temps. Coolant stays locked in at 194 degrees when warmed up and in stop/go traffic according to OBD data.

Or should I pull the blue and replace with a higher viscosity oil? My wife's 2020 vehicle sounds like a damn jet on startup, my fan never changes sound. Not saying it's bad, but I'm chasing slightly cooler vent temps.

Radiator, shroud, fan and clutch all have less than 10k miles with varying install dates.

Probably not related, but I have engine vibrations when doing engine runs to test A/C. Only between 1400-1600 RPM in park. When I shift to neutral it goes away.

you have under 200F-degree temps in July in Florida in stock and go traffic, change nothing. Enjoy life.
 
you have under 200F-degree temps in July in Florida in stock and go traffic, change nothing. Enjoy life.
I was thinking this as well. I have the modded blue clutch, and see pretty consistent 190 in the Oklahoma summer heat (100 degrees plus lately). 194 I think is fine. Chasing rainbows at this point maybe.
 
Anybody know if there is any replacement option for this wits end 3-into-1 piece?

I wanted to add my boost sensor there but the brass plug stripped out

image.jpg
 
Anybody know if there is any replacement option for this wits end 3-into-1 piece?

I wanted to add my boost sensor there but the brass plug stripped out

View attachment 3682858
You could replace it with something like this, then add swap the nipple for the brake booster on this adapter.

 
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What are people doing in areas that require smog checks?

4 options I am aware of:

1. Remove the turbo for smog inspection.
Takes a couple hours, but keeps you legit. Technically, you would need to remove the J-Pipe as it's non-factory equipment so you would also need a custom header to install between exhaust manifold and v-band flange.

2. Find "a guy".
It's harder than finding a drug dealer because smog station is fined like $10K and goes out of business if caught so there's lots of risk for them. Maybe a local performance shop or tuner would know.

3. Know someone or buy property in a zip code that doesn't do bi-annual smog checks.
More rural places in CA are considered "Change of Ownership Areas" and thus only require during change of ownership.


4. Register it in Montana — state is "cracking down" on it because they are losing money for registration on supercars and whatnot that are registered out-of-state but solely operated here.


Unfortunately, none are ideal.
 
Anybody know if there is any replacement option for this wits end 3-into-1 piece?

I wanted to add my boost sensor there but the brass plug stripped out

View attachment 3682858
I had one do this and was able to hacksaw and cross in it and use a Phillips to get it out. Drill and EZ out would work too.
 
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You could replace it with something like this, then add swap the nipple for the brake booster on this adapter.

I will confirm that the listed part will work on the 80 series manifold and with the brake booster nipple.
 
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Can't find the install manual and it's time for maintenance - can someone remind me oil weight recommendations and spark plug type / interval recommendations? Tried search but not much luck. Thx
 
Thanks @CJK for the manual. That definitely answers the plug question. For oil, it just says "use synthetic oil" but doesn't specify weight. What's everyone running in their turbo'ed trucks?
 
Thanks @CJK for the manual. That definitely answers the plug question. For oil, it just says "use synthetic oil" but doesn't specify weight. What's everyone running in their turbo'ed trucks?
I'm running 5W-40 Diesel Engine oil. Currently using Rotella T6 Full Synthetic Diesel Engine, but before that was using Mobil l Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40. I like those two options for their higher zinc content. I think I'll switch back to the Mobil 1 after I go through the Rotella I have stocked up.
 

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