- Thread starter
- #21
photos below - you can see the mess I have created in the background
Windows roll down/up, but only from their respective doors
- Thread starter W Powell
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I am not sure if the wiring diagram is the right one for your truck, your switch says all auto but the diagram is for drivers window auto only. If you can just confirm that, just check the pin numbers and colors off the drawing to your switch connector just to see if they are different.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks Julian, sorry for the late reply. I was on a business trip. All of the LXs windows are auto downs/ups. I looked at the wiring diagram and the wires do not seem to correlate. I am a little befuddled by the diagram so there is a chance I'm not cross referencing the colors correctly. Stumped at this point.
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- #24
Ouch - Well after having two shops look at it (first one was stumped) the electrical block near the drivers kick panel they say is to blame. $1500 to replace $1100 of which is the part. Any thoughts to where I might source this part for less?
As in the fuse box?
- Thread starter
- #26
shop bill attached - the tech has called it a junction block in LH kick panel.
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- #27
Tech (great guy) also left me the wiring diagram showing the fault. If I have to, I will suck it up and pay the $1300. I have been counting my pennies for a new race bike and an winter Baja trip on it. Bucket list...
In hopes of furthering that, is it possible that I can remove the fuse block and clean it will compressed air or replace a relay to regain passenger window control? As I mentioned earlier I am a little green to electrical.
Thx in advance
In hopes of furthering that, is it possible that I can remove the fuse block and clean it will compressed air or replace a relay to regain passenger window control? As I mentioned earlier I am a little green to electrical.
Thx in advance
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- Thread starter
- #28
Wow - come on guys! I know it's not about a snorkel or the blacked out emblems but help a fella out. There are some really smart guys on this forum and I just want a little point in the right direction.
Is there an alternative to replacing the junction box in this instance?
Is there an alternative to replacing the junction box in this instance?
If you can confirm the fault(resistance) is within the junction box 2, you could modify the cables externally to bypass the junction box, as it looks like they are only using the junction box to merge the separate harness's together. Make sure the pins in the connectors are in good condition. Use some fly leads first to confirm it works before cutting and splicing the harness.
