Why Me?!? (1 Viewer)

[GLTHFJ60]

So I have yet another problem.

After rebuilding my carb and reinstalling it, the truck has run perfectly until now. Today after soccer, I was on my way home and about half way it started popping again. That progressed to backfiring in about thirty seconds, and then it would not idle at all. I finally got it back to my house where it got it to idle, and I heard a screaching sound from the engine. I think it was from the passenger's side of the engine bay, but I don't know for sure. After idiling for a minute, it started belching oil smoke?!?!?!? I am sure that it came out of the tailpipe, but the funny thing is that it smelled like burning rubber more than anything else.

Any ideas guys? It ran perfectly until just two hours ago. What went wrong?

 

[Mace]

Pop the hood, start looking at belts..

loosen the alt, see if everything spins well.

Just start going through the spinning parts slowly

 

[fergus]

Sounds like a belt heating up from a seized bearing.
Maybe check your air pump?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

But what about the smoke coming from the tailpipe? Would the air pump make my truck stall out?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Could it be backfiring because of bad plugs?

 

[Mace]

Jeasus....



GO LOOK UNDER THE HOOD INSTEAD OF ASKING QUESTIONS!!!!!!



If you sieze a pully and the belt works well it is possible to stall the motor but not likely.

smoke out of a tailpipe is easily answered by smoke in the engine compartment flowing under the motor at speed.

No one can tell you what went wrong with your motor until you actually go look and give us more hints..

 

[roscoFJ73]

This has been going on for a while .

Starting up a new thread each week gives the impresson its a new problem when its sounds like a variation of the old one,to me anyway

Step 1 Decide if its electrical or fuel related

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I apologise. It did not occur to me that the same exact thing would be wrong with my carb as was before I rebuilt it. What puzzles me is that the truck ran perfectly well until yesterday. For a week of heat cycles, nothing changed and I cannot understand why the secondary jet keeps initalizing.

Sorry for the repeat. It will not happen again.

 

[High Desert]

The backfiring could indicate a timing problem could it not? May be your distributer has taken a "twist" accidently? Any backfiring I've had happened to be timing related.

.I fixed it by taking it to my mechanic...which is how "I" fix any timing problem...

HD

 

[Mace]

I apologise. It did not occur to me that the same exact thing would be wrong with my carb as was before I rebuilt it. What puzzles me is that the truck ran perfectly well until yesterday. For a week of heat cycles, nothing changed and I cannot understand why the secondary jet keeps initalizing.

Sorry for the repeat. It will not happen again.

Perhaps it is the gas tank or fuel filter.

have you looked at the fuel delivers system to see if anything is amiss?

 

[mikruiser]

this is most likely a timing issue

 

[GLTHFJ60]

As in the fuel pump? I just replaced that about a month ago so that should not be a problem, but you never know.

I was just poking around some more inside my engine bay to see what else could be wrong, and I noticed that I could use new belts as well as a new headlight, which burnt out. But that's besides the point. I glanced at the sight glass on my carb and noticed that the whole window was showing gas. I don't know how this is possible due to the fact that I just adjusted the float, but maybe I didn't do it correctly.

I'm gonna try that and then get back to you guys. BTW, if the fuel level is too high, then you bend the finger on the float down?

 

[NocalFJ60]

BTW, if the fuel level is too high, then you bend the finger on the float down?

The FSM has you turn the air horn up side down so the float drops all the way down which closes the needle valve.Then adjust the center part of float (the lip) which closes the needle valve until the float is 6mm from the air horn (at the lowest part of the float) which is the opposite end of the needle valve.

Then adjust the lower position by lifting the float up all the way and bending the tab that stops it until it is 1.1 mm from the float lip to the needle valve plunger.

I know it sounds like you have a lot of problems with it but what helps me is to break it up it to small sections and check one thing at a time. Then once you know that is correct move on to the next thing.

Goodluck

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Thanks alot for dealing with me on my problems. I know that I tend to be repetitive, but thanks for replying anyway. That problem is being fixed as well.

As for the truck, I did adjust the float like you said NocalFJ60, and now it runs like it did when I first put the carb on. I guess that there was so much fuel in the bowl that it was overflowing into the vent hole in the secondary barrel and making it appear that there was fuel coming out of the jet. Wierd, but I guess that that's what was happening. Now the sight glass reads the fuel to be about in the middle, which is what I wanted. And like I said, I'm eternally grateful that you guys have dealt with me and all of my posts.

My question is that if the float was so out of adjustment, then why did it run so well for a week until this problem cropped up again?

Anyway, I'm putting a new air filter and new plugs in tomorrow to compliment my freshly rebuilt carb. Hopefully I won't break anything else putting those on!!

Thanks again guys, you have helped me be able to drive my beloved Land Cruiser once more.

 

[NocalFJ60]

Glad to hear it worked out for you.

 

[fj60dave]

adjust the valves. new distributor cap, rotor and plugs if old. check air and fuel filter.