Who's done a timing belt? (1 Viewer)

[splitshot]

This will be my first. Just ordered OEM parts kit from flea-bay for the Tundra. Next will be the daughter's 4runner.
How much time should I set aside?
And any tips that are not covered in all the videos out there?

 

[GBinAZ]

When you do the Tundra, set the timing marks to the "T" marks not to the dots. this is mentioned in a few of the online videos on doing 4.7 timing belts.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

If you've never done it before on the 2uz, plan for a full day, possibly even 2 days if you run into problems or considerable cleaning is needed at the water pump to block mating surface, oil pump housing/crank seal area, etc. For example, I did the TB/WP job on a friend's 4runner in 3 hours start to finish; my 100 in a full 8-hour day; and a friend's 100 took 2 full days. The time discrepancy among those jobs, despite all being the 2uz engine, was primarily because of the amount of cleaning that needed to be done prior to putting everything back together.

I've done a handful of 5vz timing belt jobs and it is a bit easier than the 2uz, in my opinion, but similar delays can occur if the water pump, cam/crank seals, etc. have been leaking that requires considerable cleaning before buttoning everything up.

You'll need to either buy or make a tool for holding the crank shaft pulley and cam pulleys while loosening/torquing down the bolts. I strongly recommend replacing the fan bracket with a new Aisin unit when doing the job. Pay attention to how the crank shaft position sensor wiring is routed near the oil cooler pipe and be sure to put it back correctly, otherwise the belt will burn through the wiring and lead to problems. Finally, get a copy of the FSM and follow it without exception.

 

[jahawk]

It can be done in a day, but I'd set aside two. I normally tear it all down and install the belt the first day. The second day I double and triple check belt alignment, and then reassemble the thing.

I have the tool that holds the crank if you want to borrow it.

Jim

 

[Funner]

I have done 2 in 100 series, first one took a whole day, second one was about 4 hours. Advice, you will save time and effort removing things getting them out of the way rather than trying to take less apart and working around them.

 

[splitshot]

You'll need to either buy or make a tool for holding the crank shaft pulley and cam pulleys while loosening/torquing down the bolts.

I have the tool that holds the crank if you want to borrow it.

Jim

Love to borrow the tool if you lived next door.
But I have a rule, if it is going to be used more that once it needs to be purchased and placed in my box. Like I said, the Daughter's runner is next, and I suspect my 2001 is down the road at some point. Just bought a Lisle shaft type seal puller specifically for this job.
Any links of brand/part numbers?

 

[splitshot]

Also, the parts showed up today. Always leery about getting cheep counterfeit Chinese parts from ebay vendors.
All showed up sealed in plastic with OEM boxes and labels.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Love to borrow the tool if you lived next door.
But I have a rule, if it is going to be used more that once it needs to be purchased and placed in my box. Like I said, the Daughter's runner is next, and I suspect my 2001 is down the road at some point. Just bought a Lisle shaft type seal puller specifically for this job.
Any links of brand/part numbers?

This is the tool for the 5vzfe crank: Amazon product ASIN B07NRGRYM1
That tool won’t work on your Tundra with the 2uzfe, though. You’ll need this tool for it:
Amazon product ASIN B07Q1W36L7
You’ll also need something like this to hold the camshaft pulleys:
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Ca...t=&hvlocphy=1014570&hvtargid=pla-787887405344

 

[RHINO]

did my 5vz, much easier than i thought it was gonna be, then did a friends 2uz, pretty similar, just take your time, be methodical.

 

[splitshot]

Thanks all, as soon as I get the 3rd gen's transfer case done, I am going in.

 

[UsedLuxury]

If you haven't done the TB yet I found a pretty decent walk through on doing one.

 

[splitshot]

If you haven't done the TB yet I found a pretty decent walk through on doing one.

Not yet, thanks!

 

[splitshot]

Well this should go into the what have you done thread, but because it has some valuable info above I figured to carry on here...

Finally dove in this weekend, not a difficult job, but time consuming (now I know why the shops charge a hefty labor bill).
Only glitch I found was the Toyota 13568-09070 belt in the kit was mismarked by about 4 inches (short) on the camshaft marks. Belt length
was the same, but I was not willing to gamble with a guess so I dropped $39 at O'reilley's and compared with the Gates in stock.
Everything lined up perfectly, truck started with no misfires, no leaks, and after what seemed like 100 fasteners, none left over.

Only extra was a 12mm, socket some previous wrencher lost in the thermostat housing.

 

[splitshot]

My no leaks comment was premature. The 1/2" (plus or minus) pipe that has an indent for an o-ring that feeds into the back of the water pump. does anyone know or have a diagram where it feeds under the intake manifold? Might be easier to solve from the top (removing the intake), than tearing into the front again.

Found this, sound correct?

2001 Tundra 4.7L Rear O-Ring From Water Pump Leaking

The little o-ring that pushes into the water pump I think it's called a heater bypass pipe but not totally sure. It's leaking. Is it possible to remove the upper plenum (not the lower) and pull the pipe out of the pump and replace the o-ring without removing the timing belt. The T-Belt and W/P...

www.toyotanation.com