Whole vehicle vibration, even after lots of work and new parts

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Jun 20, 2023
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Florida
Hey all, looking for some advice on vibration issues in my 2002 LC with 202,000 miles.

I've done a lot of work recently, but still a lot left to do so I want to tackle things methodically.
The vibrations are resonating through the whole car and you can feel it in any seat. My LX470 with more miles and worse condition was smoother! Damn that AHC is good.

On a scale of 1-10, a speeds of 40-50 the vibration is a 4.
From speeds of about 65-80 the vibration is more like a 7.

The steering wheel has no vibration below 50mph and barely any vibration at 60+, but I think it's because its absorbing vibrations resonating through the whole chassis.
At speed, the car feels reasonably stable except for some minor wiggles here and there. Suspecting front diff bushings in this case.

I purchased the truck at 199k miles earlier this year and in that time have replaced all of the following myself with brand new OEM parts:
  • Steering rack and outer tie rods
  • Every front axle related part - brand new CVs, wheel bearings, clips, bolts, etc
  • All 4 brand new shocks
  • All 4 brand new AT tires, mounted and balanced
Note that I mentioned front axle, but not suspension components other than shocks.

Because I'll need to do this in stages, I'm looking to go down the list of most important bushings and suspension components that will help smooth this baby back out.
I really can't afford to have this thing off the road for extended periods of time right now so a massive overhaul like the front axle rebuild isn't ideal since that would likely take me a while.

Thanks in advance
 
I forgot to ask about engine / trans mounts. On my Celsior aka LS400, replacing the transmission mount was a 15 minute job and made an unbelievable difference.

My prelim research doesn't seem to indicate the same is true for the 100s. Anyone does engine/trans mounts with positive effect?
 
I no you said new tires, but it sounds like an out of balance tire/wheel. I've had to take back new K02's multiple times to get balanced until they were right.

Jim
I could definitely see that. I think I'll try to go to the close-ish off-road/lifted truck shop and have them check it instead of the Midas tires I went to the first time
 
When you say "Brand new CV's," were they like $400-600/ea or $100-200/ea. Sometimes folks buy remanufactured thinking they are new.
 
Ok, I just re-read your post and realize the vibration was there before the work you had done. I would next inspect the two driveshafts. You can disconnect either front or rear and see if there is a difference. Vibration that changes while on the throttle vs coasting would point towards universal joints but constant vibration more likely the shafts themself. Really worn out suspension bushings will also cause vibrations.
 
I had vibration that I could feel in the seat and steering wheel that was corrected by a wheel alignment and tire balance. Take a look at your wheels and see if you lost any wheel weights.

And yes try and take it to a Toyota/Lexus indy or off road shop. They’ll know what to do with AT tires.
 
Ok, I just re-read your post and realize the vibration was there before the work you had done. I would next inspect the two driveshafts. You can disconnect either front or rear and see if there is a difference. Vibration that changes while on the throttle vs coasting would point towards universal joints but constant vibration more likely the shafts themself. Really worn out suspension bushings will also cause vibrations.
Is there something to look for specifically if I disconnect them? I've seen people talk about greasing them but not sure what else to do beyond that.
 
I hade the same issue with my LX after new CV, wheel bearings, shocks and stabilizer bar bushings (front and back). Took it to alignment shop familiar with offroad/lifted vehicles and got another balance and alignment and it solved the issue. Looks like you're in Mobile area too, take it to Airport Tire. I had good luck with them.
 
Is there something to look for specifically if I disconnect them? I've seen people talk about greasing them but not sure what else to do beyond that.
Pull each drive shaft and inspect the ujoints. They should move smooth and free without play. Also, drive shafts need to be balanced (they are balanced at the factory but it’s possible that the weight fell off). If the ujoints need to be replaced, and you still have vibration issues, you may need to have them rebalanced.

I’m leaning towards tire balancing. I had a high speed vibration that was solved with a Road Force balance at Discount Tire.
 
Are you chasing the floating on a cloud smoothness? Like, if someone other than a land cruiser nut was driving would they feel it too? Lol thats a good place to start.

I've had a few unsuccessful runs at balancing tires, maybe go back for a re-spin and see if its as simple as that before diving deeper.
 
Is there something to look for specifically if I disconnect them? I've seen people talk about greasing them but not sure what else to do beyond that.
First a visual check, see if the driveshafts are gouged anywhere. Check to see if the driveshafts were installed "in-phase" (google that). Remove the rear one and inspect for play. Be sure the wheels are chocked in both directions. The parking pawl will no longer work once you remove either driveshaft. Lock the CDL and drive. It'll be driving in FWD. If the vibration is still there, reinstall rear DS and remove front and drive again.

I do agree tires and balance would be the most common culprit but you said the vibration was there first and you put on all new tires and the vibration is the same, right?
 
Are you chasing the floating on a cloud smoothness? Like, if someone other than a land cruiser nut was driving would they feel it too? Lol thats a good place to start.

I've had a few unsuccessful runs at balancing tires, maybe go back for a re-spin and see if its as simple as that before diving deeper.
Haha good point. In this case, I think anyone who knows cars would notice. My SO and son didn't say anything, but I also kept my mouth shut since I'm always chasing that floating cloud smoothness on one of our cars lol.

Re-spin definitely seems like a good idea.
 
First a visual check, see if the driveshafts are gouged anywhere. Check to see if the driveshafts were installed "in-phase" (google that). Remove the rear one and inspect for play. Be sure the wheels are chocked in both directions. The parking pawl will no longer work once you remove either driveshaft. Lock the CDL and drive. It'll be driving in FWD. If the vibration is still there, reinstall rear DS and remove front and drive again.

I do agree tires and balance would be the most common culprit but you said the vibration was there first and you put on all new tires and the vibration is the same, right?
Thanks! Sounds doable.

There was for sure a vibration prior to the new tires, but I was 99% sure I narrowed it down to an out of round FL tire and also had a blown steering rack right when I bought the truck.

When I was driving slowly on the old tires, like 5mph, it felt like there was a small stone or a bulge in the tire that you were constantly driving over.
Since the tires were 10 years old, I replaced them and it made somewhat of a difference but not as much as I expected, especially after all new shocks.
 
Haha good point. In this case, I think anyone who knows cars would notice. My SO and son didn't say anything, but I also kept my mouth shut since I'm always chasing that floating cloud smoothness on one of our cars lol.

Re-spin definitely seems like a good idea.
Yeah especially since you seem to have had you hands in there before and know everything else is tight. Driveshaft is worth looking at , I wonder if you pop it in neutral when the vibration is happening if the symptoms would change at all. IDK, just thinking of simple stuff first.

I don't think motor mounts are too blame. You may already know but you check by carefully applying full brake, in drive, and tapping throttle while someone looks to see if engine slams around. ( stand on the side for safety sake )
 
Yeah especially since you seem to have had you hands in there before and know everything else is tight. Driveshaft is worth looking at , I wonder if you pop it in neutral when the vibration is happening if the symptoms would change at all. IDK, just thinking of simple stuff first.

I don't think motor mounts are too blame. You may already know but you check by carefully applying full brake, in drive, and tapping throttle while someone looks to see if engine slams around. ( stand on the side for safety sake )
Oh that's a great point, easy to check the motor mounts knocking around. I was blown away at the different motor mounts/trans mount made on my Celsior, so I wondered if the same was true here.

This thing had valve cover leaks from hell on both sides. Oil residue was everyyywhere on both sides. Oil soaked rubber bushings like the motor mounts can weaken/fatigue after extended oil exposure, right?
 
Oh that's a great point, easy to check the motor mounts knocking around. I was blown away at the different motor mounts/trans mount made on my Celsior, so I wondered if the same was true here.

This thing had valve cover leaks from hell on both sides. Oil residue was everyyywhere on both sides. Oil soaked rubber bushings like the motor mounts can weaken/fatigue after extended oil exposure, right?
Gotcha.. Yeah oil and rubber aren't a good combination but may not relate to your current issue.

If you end up needing mounts, worth checking below first
>100 Series 2UZ-FE Engine Mount kit - https://www.cruiserpatch.com/products/100-series-engine-mount-kit
20% off now through July 15th- Use code “CROCKIES20”
 
Just wanted to update this thread because my original issue of vibrations and unpredictability was massively improved after installing all new OEM LCA bushings and 555 LBJs. At the same time I did new OEM engine and trans mounts. I paid $775 to a local Toyota master tech to do it for me. Money well spent!

I previously did front diff bushings and that made basically no difference.

Sadly, the vibration is not entirely gone but it's way better. The vibration moves after I do a tire rotation so I need new a different set of wheels/tires to test further.

Hope this helps someone in the future
 
I still lean into wheels/tires. It could be a damaged wheel. Are they the original ones? Also, dumb question but is that big vibration damper thing that looks like a giant tic tac still mounted to the frame?
 

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