Which engine oil do you use?

Which oil do you use?

  • Dinosaur oil, factory recommended wt.

    Votes: 6 14.3%
  • Dino oil, other wt.

    Votes: 1 2.4%
  • Synthetic oil, factory wt.

    Votes: 23 54.8%
  • Synthetic, other wt.

    Votes: 12 28.6%

  • Total voters
    42

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Joined
Feb 16, 2006
Threads
21
Messages
185
Location
Chicago
What's in the engine right now, or what are you switching to at the next oil change?
 
I've used Ursa Super Plus 15W-40 for the past four years. I get it from a distributor that sells to the fleets. Use it year round (and it gets to -30C here).

Hastings filters for oil and fuel
 
Bought mine used at 94K. Engine oil was burnt pretty bad when I changed it. Did not know what the PO used, but I switched to M1 synthetic and filter. 1500 miles later, the engine oil shows some faint darkness, which I attribute to the small amount of undrained burnt oil. Will keep using the M1 oil and filter.
 
Mobil Delvac 1 (5W-40), USA equiv Mobil 1 Truck & SUV I think, this is for a diesel engine, but if I had a gas engine I would probaly still use it anyway
 
Mobil1 5w-30 in regular or Truck and SUV at 10,000 mile OCI. I go with M1 for the cold weather performance of the synth at the reasonable 5qt jug price.

When I had an Amsoil store available I used their products but I hate the multi-level marketing scheme.

The M1 0w-40 Euro formula or the 0w-30 German Castrol that meet the tough Euro specs are arguably "better" oils but are not as available to me or priced as well.

Any new SM rated oil at the factory interval will probably keep the engine running as long as is realistically possible. So I know the I am probably overdoing it with M1.
 
Mobil1 5w-30 in regular or Truck and SUV at 10,000 mile OCI. I go with M1 for the cold weather performance of the synth at the reasonable 5qt jug price.

When I had an Amsoil store available I used their products but I hate the multi-level marketing scheme.

The M1 0w-40 Euro formula or the 0w-30 German Castrol that meet the tough Euro specs are arguably "better" oils but are not as available to me or priced as well.

Any new SM rated oil at the factory interval will probably keep the engine running as long as is realistically possible. So I know the I am probably overdoing it with M1.

Read this post about 10 times because this hits the nail squarely on the head.
 
I used regular oil for a long time. After doing alot of research I found the Mobile 1 extended performance to be the best by far. I have tested it at intervals from 5k to 11k last change. Depending on how much dirt I see I will try to make to
15k. I am currently experimenting with filters to see which seems to do the best. I will keep you posted. So far I think the M1 filter worked best.
 
Read this post about 10 times because this hits the nail squarely on the head.

that makes me feel good. Costco has a 6qt pack of M1 5w-30 and another weight for 29.95....i should have bought that the other day, forgot to go to costco till last night. Oh well.
 
My early results of LC100 filter teardowns show the OEM denso (Thailand) to have approximately 15-20% more total filtering area with a very well built bypass and a quality filter material. I have compared to the PureOne which also looks well built but is in a smaller can and clearly has less material..

I have not torn down a M1 filter yet. Still working on my teardown techniques, methodology and data collection goals before buying the expensive filters.
 
Switched from POs' dino oil to M1 5w-30. Will use M1 EP when instock at Wallymart. For just about the same price why not use the EP.
 
I thought the price for the 5qt jugs at walmart for M1 sw-30 was very reasonable at $26.XX. At Sam's club, you can buy 12 qts of the same (not in jugs, but in 1qt bottles) for only $18.XX. I could not believe it. I know where I am buying mine from now on.
 

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