Where is the residual valve for the rear brakes on a 60? I need to find it so I can remove it since I put rear disks the beast. Lot's of plumbing for the brakes, I would love to know where it is without taking everything apart.
Where is it!
- Thread starter lehiguy
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Not sure if there actually is an RP valve on 81-later MC's.
If it is there, it will be located under the adapter nut where the brakeline threads into the MC.
If it is there, it will be located under the adapter nut where the brakeline threads into the MC.
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Do you think it's where the line goes into the MC or the proportioning valve that hangs from the front of the MC? I gotta admit, it's a crazy looking brake setup... about a mile of steel line wrapped up like a bowl of noodles.
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It would be where the line goes into the MC.
Yeah, the prop valve is the little widget hanging under the MC, and it is only a PV.
The stock PV could be removed and replaced w/ an adjustable PV.
Or the stock PV can remain, and the adjustable PV can be spliced into the rear line between PV and rear axle.
Yeah, the prop valve is the little widget hanging under the MC, and it is only a PV.
The stock PV could be removed and replaced w/ an adjustable PV.
Or the stock PV can remain, and the adjustable PV can be spliced into the rear line between PV and rear axle.
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That's what I have done, I put an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line. I wasn't certain about the residual valve, but when I open the bleeders on the rear calipers, there is residual pressure, so I have to find it and remove it.
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On a related topic, what are you doing for p-brake now?
The lack of effective GM p-brake caliper is one of the things holding me back from this swap.
The lack of effective GM p-brake caliper is one of the things holding me back from this swap.
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- #7
On a related topic, what are you doing for p-brake now?
The lack of effective GM p-brake caliper is one of the things holding me back from this swap.
Funny you asked. I was going to do the Eldorado thing, but those calipers are getting very hard to find and extremely expensive (was quoted $90 plus $100 core EACH) so I thought I would make a driveline brake. I have an NV4500 and an NP241 behind it that I just put in as well as a semi floater 14-bolt, six lug axle. Well, there is no room for a driveline brake since this combination is actually longer overall than the H55F and Mark's bellhousing adapter was that I took out and the tail end of it is beyond the drivetrain tunnel that exists in the body work. The massive Spicer CV flange is six inches already and that's all the room I've got. So back to the drawing board. I notice that Jegs and others sell some small, mechanical calipers that appear to be the same stuff that the cart crowd is using. I might try to mount one each to the rear rotors independent of the main calipers since there is plenty of room. Although they seem small and would have a very limited ability to turn kinetic energy into heat, they might hold the rig still. The other option is a mechanical line lock as are common on sandrails. At this point, I just want to be able to stop the beast, then I'll work on the park brake.
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Another caliper on the same rotor is a neat idea.
A driveline brake rotor on the pinion flange is sometimes used for streetrod apps, but they aren't concerned about ground clearance under the pinion.
A driveline brake rotor on the pinion flange is sometimes used for streetrod apps, but they aren't concerned about ground clearance under the pinion.
