Where does the red SOLENOID POWER wire connect to? Using EZ Harness (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Judh8smud
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you should have a wire running to the solenoid that gets juice when you turn the key in the ignition - I don't know the EZ wire colors to assert whether it would be red
as Pin_Head said, you'll need to mate that harness with the OEM diagram and switches - one by one, and find proper ground for the devices
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- #23
Ok thanks txnight! I will definitely keep you guys posted. I have the starter rigged as you have described above...
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- #24
Yes, the wire that is running to the solenoid that gives it the juice from the ignition should be the purple IGN START wire that I have connected to the spade lug on the left side. I have tested the IGN START wire when someone else was turning the key to the start position and the voltage jumps up to about 12 volts (and then goes back down to zero) which is apparently what I need to get the solenoid to activate. This tells me that I'm getting electricity to starter but for some reason the starter is still not activating...the starter is brand new so I'm sure I'm just missing something, which I was thinking would be that red solenoid power wire but apparently that is irrelevant seeing that my power source is the positive cable from the battery. I'm going to take a look at the ground I have between the starter and the chassis and clean it up really nice, and in all the places that my electrical is grounded for that matter.
I have a brand new ignition switch, ignition coil, starter motor, battery, and electrical (wiring)...I'm pretty sure I have all of the main ignition circuit wired up, and my distributor looks like it is in good shape. But regardless of the condition of my dizzy, I think I should still be hearing my starter make some noise regardless correct?
Any ideas on what I could be missing? Should I make sure every other wire of the enitre harness is connected before I try to get the engine to start? Or should I be able to start it with only the ignition circuit connected?
Smack the starter with a hammer and see if that wakes it up.
If not try jumping across from the battery cable terminal to the spade lug on the solenoid. This will eliminate all other possibilities than the starter.
The other thing is that you can get fooled about the adequacy of a circuit by testing it when it is open or disconnected. Even a bad wire will show 12V when disconnected and this may drop to near zero when connected.
If not try jumping across from the battery cable terminal to the spade lug on the solenoid. This will eliminate all other possibilities than the starter.
The other thing is that you can get fooled about the adequacy of a circuit by testing it when it is open or disconnected. Even a bad wire will show 12V when disconnected and this may drop to near zero when connected.
Even if the starter won't turn over you will usually hear it kick on and sound like it's locked up. .
Why don't you take a picture of how the starter is currently wired so we can take a look.
Just to clarify, you do have a large cable running directly from the positive terminal on the battery and connected on the large (middle) post on your starter? The purple wire from the ignition to the small connector on your starter only excites the solenoid and tell it's it to turn over. Without the large cable from the batt. to the starter you will get nothing turning over.
No need to connect the other wires just make sure they aren't touching bare metal or each other. No need to create other electrical gremlins for yourself.
Keep up posted on your progress.
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- #27
Hey, sorry its been a while since I replied...I have tapped the starter several times but I have been really careful not to damage the interior. I've heard you can hit it too hard and essentially break the starter. So, on a scale of 1-10, about how hard should I smack it?
And by "jumping across from the battery cable terminal to the spade lug on the solenoid," I'm not sure exactly what you mean. What would I be connecting to the spade lug other than the ign start wire?
Ok that's good to know about testing the wires!
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- #28
Right.
Thanks for the information on the electrical!
Here are some pics.
Here you can (kinda) see that I do have the positive cable running from the batt to the center post of the solenoid.
here's a close up on the solenoid. You can see that the positive cable is on the center post and the purple ign start wire is on the spade lug.
Here are some more pics...
As much as it looks like it, that black wire with the blue connector on it is not ground to the firewall! EZ told me to seal that wire and leave it alone! So it's not connected.
The orange wire is the IGN ACC , the purple is the ING START, The Red is the IGN SW POWER, which is where that black wire is spliced to, the pink wire is the IGN SW COIL, and the faded purpleish one is the ING SW IGN wire.
I have them wired to my brand new painless universal ign switch just as the EZ diagram shows.
Nice pictures. More silly questions!
Is the red wire from your ignition switch hooked up to the battery or is that it coiled up on the valve cover?
What voltage do you have at the ignition switch?
Jumping the starter is essentially bypassing the ignition switch by using the power to the middle post and using a short wire you touch the spade where the purple wire is connected. This excites the solenoid and causes the starter to spin.
Keep going! Wish I was down the street so I could drink all your beer and help out.
Is the red wire from your ignition switch hooked up to the battery or is that it coiled up on the valve cover?
What voltage do you have at the ignition switch?
Jumping the starter is essentially bypassing the ignition switch by using the power to the middle post and using a short wire you touch the spade where the purple wire is connected. This excites the solenoid and causes the starter to spin.
Keep going! Wish I was down the street so I could drink all your beer and help out.
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- #32
Nice pictures. More silly questions!
Is the red wire from your ignition switch hooked up to the battery or is that it coiled up on the valve cover?
What voltage do you have at the ignition switch?
Jumping the starter is essentially bypassing the ignition switch by using the power to the middle post and using a short wire you touch the spade where the purple wire is connected. This excites the solenoid and causes the starter to spin.
Keep going! Wish I was down the street so I could drink all your beer and help out.
No. That red wire would be the solenoid power wire that started this whole thread lol. But seeing that I won't be needing it, I have just coiled it up and put it aside for now. Should the red wire from my ignition be hooked up to my battery? (I'm a total car noob if you couldn't tell already! But I'm enjoying the challenge.)
I don't know about the voltage on my ign sw...I'll have to test that and get back with you on my results.
Ah, I see. Might have to give that a try at some point.
And that would be amazing!
We live outside of Fort Worth a ways...have you ever heard of Rhome, Boyd, or Decatur? We kinda live in between all of that. We're about 50 min away from Irving, so it'd be a bit of a drive.
But seriously, I would totally welcome the help and you can drink all the beer we have! haha
Sounds great! I'll check my pm's.
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- #34
I'm a college student and my dad and I are working on the car together. It'll be my first car once I have it finished. Unfortunately, we're both pretty much amateurs, although my dad has more general automotive experience than I do. Progress is slow as my budget is pretty limited, but I think I can afford what I need to get it running and road ready within the next few months. As I said, I'm thoroughly enjoying the challenge, but I could definitely use some serious help, so I appreciate the generous offer.
If we do make plans to work on it together, I'll make sure we have plenty of work lined up and the resources available to make it worth your time.
The OEM power feed for the chassis goes from the battery + post through the fusible link via a large white wire that goes to the amp meter. There it joins power coming in from the alternator and then goes to the ignition switch where it splits into two main branches. One goes directly to the fuse block to provide unswitched power that is always hot. The other branch goes through the switch to provide power to fuse block for things like the tun signals that are only hot when the key is on. There are two main buss bars in the fuse block: One with constant power and one that has power only when the key is on.
HTH
HTH
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- #36
Ok very valid point....I'm trying to think of where I might have it all connected.
It's all wired something like this: Fuse Box attached to firewall, the ignition switch is wired directly off of the fuse box, from the ignition switch I have the IGN START wire going to the starter spade lug, and the IGN COIL wire to the positive of ignition coil, the negative of the ign coil is wired to the distributor. Then of course, I have the positive of the battery wired to the starter motor, and the negative of the battery is wired to the engine block, and I think that's it.
So I guess you'd be correct, I don't necessarily have anything directly wired to the ign sw to give it power...what about the negative battery cable to the engine block though?
I was assuming that all of that circuit would indirectly power the ign sw seeing that it comes from the battery to the starter, and from the starter to the ign sw...
As I've said, I'm a car noob, so let's just dumb it down a little because I want to make sure I am understanding correctly. Define "Chassis." Does that mean essentially the frame or body of the car? So a connection from the battery which is grounded directly to bare metal?
And if I were to give power to the chassis from the battery, where would that connection typically happen?
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- #37
Yeah! I think you're onto something here! I have that white wire you are talking about. I have looked at it several times on my diagrams and seen that it runs to the amp meter...honestly, I chalked it off as irrelevent because I didn't think it was needed to get the engine to start.
That white wire you're talking about was originally wired to the center post of my starter motor, this is where it made the connection to the + battery cable as you were saying needs to happen.
So, if it is needed to get power to my ign sw and fuse box, I just need to figure out how to reconnect that circuit... I can easily re attach that white wire, but then from there I'll have to trace it back to where it makes a connection to the amp meter, etc,
That is why I said you have to replace all the original wires one by one. That is why the EZ kit is not that EZ.
I guess you never jumped across the spade lug of the starter wire to the battery cable post because your starter would run then.
I guess you never jumped across the spade lug of the starter wire to the battery cable post because your starter would run then.
I would recommend soldering the connections if you dont want gremlins down the road.
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- #40
Right, but I can just re wire that white wire and complete that circuit with some cut offs from my kit right?
And no, I haven't given that a shot yet. Would that be a temporary fix just to get the starter going, or are you saying that is literally how I could wire it permanently?
And no, I haven't given that a shot yet. Would that be a temporary fix just to get the starter going, or are you saying that is literally how I could wire it permanently?
