wheel studs?

[hullendersauce]

when changing out the rotors, whats the best way to pound the wheel studs back in "flush"? i gottem close as i could with a tap, but had to pupt a tire on and tighten down the lugs to pull em together. result=broken wheel stud. i am going back and replacing all of em when i fix it, but is that only way to gettem flush again? btw, the bolt pattern has changed on the new rotors....there arent any!! -other sean

 

[V-DAWG]

I have always got them started just a little, and pulled them snug with the lug nuts.

 

[stinkyfj60]

I took mine to the local machine shop and had them pressed in. It was cheap, fast and they checked to make sure my brand new rotors were true while they had 'em.... I am not sure you can get new studs into a new rotor by just pounding them int... at least not easily.

 

[Toadhopper]

I second stinky's advice, Machine shop, and get new studs while you're at it!

 

[Hildy]

You think getting the old studs flush is hard, ha! Pounding in new studs is a real pita. I tried using a punch, didn't work. I ended up using a scrap metal bar/rod/cylinder. It was about an inch and a half in diameter, about 7 inches long and solid. (little smaller/softer than my wang) Not sure what to call it exactly, but theres no way I could have got em in all the way using a punch.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You can pound them in from the back. Use a heafty steel drift and a 3 pound sledge. I agree you should replace the studs while you're at it. Toyota OEM are slightly easier to seat than the aftermarket ones from NAPA.

 

[stinkyfj60]

You can pound them in from the back. Use a heafty steel drift and a 3 pound sledge. I agree you should replace the studs while you're at it. Toyota OEM are slightly easier to seat than the aftermarket ones from NAPA.

I didnt have time to get OEM ones in, so I used NAPA. But since I used a machine shop I cheated... No probs at all.