I think I need a front wheel bearing. What brand do you guys prefer?
Wheel bearing and hub brand?
- Thread starter markthegrea
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fjc-man
SILVER Star
OEM is first choice. If frugal, yotabearingsandhubs.com has a an assembly for 90 bucks for your 470.
I prefer, and use on customer vehicles, the NSK and TIMKEN brand which are both OEM manufactures. I don't think you'll go wrong with either. $50-$75 Each ( not including hub seals / hub flange ) ea. on Rockauto.com
I got mine from Bluepitbearings.com with Koyo bearings. You can get them assembled, makes it a lot easier. Plus there a TLCA supporter.
I second blue pit. Did mine a few months back and am very happy with them. It was nice buying them already pressed together because it took all the headache out and made doing front wheel bearings a 1 hour job for both. Yes it’s more expensive but I found it to be totally worth it. My .02
As long as the actual bearings came out of Japan you're probably fine, but I would personally buy OEM from Toyota.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
I’m “chiming in” on this post because I happen to be getting ready to replace the hub / bearing assemblies on my 07 FJ Cruiser with 239,000 miles. I bought these assemblies from a guy who sold his FJ and was selling off his parts stash, all oem. I’m waiting on a shipment of parts from partsouq.com that contains the axle side of the knuckle, grease/dust seals I need to do this job all at one time. I did a price comparison of the list of parts to do one side.Toyota online parts store = 391.56 + tax! Partsouq.com = 204.33 + shipping!
- Thread starter
- #8
I went with these guys. $89 shipped with some Toyota and Aisian parts. Thanks guys!
fjc-man
SILVER Star
You’ll still need to get the oil seal (in the diagram) for the axle side of the knuckle. I’m assuming it’s the same as the FJ, part #90316-72001 as that’s not included with the assembly.
The seal is National Seal 710573. It's available at O'Reilly's for around $26 or $14 on Amazon. I think it's shared with a ton of Toyotas as my local O'Reilly's usually has them in stock. Mine always seem to need to be replaced when I pull a CV (I think the act of pulling damages them). I recently ordered 2 from Amazon to keep on the shelf.
Amazon product ASIN B001UCMUEQ
I also went with these guys. I got the higher end version they had offered. 5k hard miles on them no complaints
- Thread starter
- #12
I have watched a few videos and nobody has mentioned the seal. Is it reusable? Will it come out and be apparent when I do this?
If the seal is in good condition, you can absolutely re-use it. Every time I've pulled a CV axle, it damages the outer rubber lip of the seal. It's very hard to not let the threaded and splined outer end of the CV contact the seal and damage it when you pull the CV. Perhaps the folks on Youtube aren't checking to see if the seal is damaged. If the seal is damaged, it may let water/debris into your wheel bearing and accelerate wear.
You can visually inspect the seal after you pull the CV and check for any damage (chunks of nitrile usually come off seal lip in my experience). If you need to replace the seal, just pull it out with a seal puller and tap the new seal in. The CV dust cap (which you have to pull to from the brake rotor to remove the CV axle nut) is perfectly sized to fit inside the metal lip of the seal, and you can tap it in with a rubber mallet. I also add a few dollops new wheel bearing grease behind the seal (against the wheel bearing) when I replace the seal, but I'm not sure if it's totally necessary.
Given how cheap the seals are, I'd just have them on hand if you are going to swap the CV. Or, maybe you'll be less sloppy than myself when removing the CV and can get away without damaging them
.
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fjc-man
SILVER Star
The oem seals come with a bead of lube already applied inside the rim.
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- Thread starter
- #15
Finished today and thanks to all.
Full story:
I went with www.yotabearingsandhubs.com and the part came quickly. However, the box was open and completely empty! I contacted Dave at yotabearings and he sent out another one and requested some pictures of the open box. The original box was not taped on one end and the bearing must have come out (probably rattling around in a truck somewhere). Dave was great to work with and I recommend him highly.
The new bearing came (properly taped) with the seal mentioned above and a new cotter pin. Both were not expected and I couldn't find that they were included on the website. I removed the old bearing using videos (very easy, however, you do need a 35mm socket (which I already had). I installed the bearing, uninstalled it and added some brake grease where the seal touched metal, reinstalled it, then uninstalled it again and put the brake cover on. So, 3 installs but all worked fine.
To install the seal the CV joint either needs to be removed OR the bottom two bolts need to be removed so the steering knuckle can swing out. Our trucks are very easy to work on, front end wise, so i removed the two bolts and it swung out. This job is pretty easy for someone with average skills, BUT you need 17mm, 35mm sockets and a 17 mm. wrench. I also have a torque wrench and suspension stuff needs high torque (170 or so?).
Again, thanks for all the help!
Full story:
I went with www.yotabearingsandhubs.com and the part came quickly. However, the box was open and completely empty! I contacted Dave at yotabearings and he sent out another one and requested some pictures of the open box. The original box was not taped on one end and the bearing must have come out (probably rattling around in a truck somewhere). Dave was great to work with and I recommend him highly.
The new bearing came (properly taped) with the seal mentioned above and a new cotter pin. Both were not expected and I couldn't find that they were included on the website. I removed the old bearing using videos (very easy, however, you do need a 35mm socket (which I already had). I installed the bearing, uninstalled it and added some brake grease where the seal touched metal, reinstalled it, then uninstalled it again and put the brake cover on. So, 3 installs but all worked fine.
To install the seal the CV joint either needs to be removed OR the bottom two bolts need to be removed so the steering knuckle can swing out. Our trucks are very easy to work on, front end wise, so i removed the two bolts and it swung out. This job is pretty easy for someone with average skills, BUT you need 17mm, 35mm sockets and a 17 mm. wrench. I also have a torque wrench and suspension stuff needs high torque (170 or so?).
Again, thanks for all the help!
Snagged the bearing and hub assemblies from blue pit. It looks like they come with seals, o-rings, and cotter pins.
Are there any other parts needed to do this job? Anything else I should consider replacing? CV axles, brakes, steering rack are all new.
Are there any other parts needed to do this job? Anything else I should consider replacing? CV axles, brakes, steering rack are all new.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
You will still need the seal ( per knuckle) for the axle side of the knuckle pictured in post #14.
Thanks for the heads up!
