What's with the double starts???

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I agree with ChuckB. I used to think my 2F was absolutely "cold natured". I had to choke and pump and multi start pretty much all year long. After all new vacuum hose and a Jim C carb job I am cured. FYI - I did not use or need the choke even one time this winter! unbelievable, but true. Replace all your vacuum hose and look for faulty emissions...especially EGR.
 
fj60dave said:
I agree with ChuckB. I used to think my 2F was absolutely "cold natured". I had to choke and pump and multi start pretty much all year long. After all new vacuum hose and a Jim C carb job I am cured. FYI - I did not use or need the choke even one time this winter! unbelievable, but true. Replace all your vacuum hose and look for faulty emissions...especially EGR.
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I used to think the cruiser was warm blooded. Don't even ask me how many times I pushed it and then bump started it by myself on a gravel driveway that was not flat :princess: talk about a workout!!! Especially when its 35 degrees out...
 
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humper99, i'm told that 2f's have a not too uncommon cracked intake, which in my case, drains my bowl in @ 6 hrs. requiring my starter to crank until fuel has been pumped back into the bowl before it finally fires. annoying, but predictable, it's never not started
 
rightlane said:
humper99, i'm told that 2f's have a not too uncommon cracked intake, which in my case, drains my bowl in @ 6 hrs. requiring my starter to crank until fuel has been pumped back into the bowl before it finally fires. annoying, but predictable, it's never not started
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I don't think a cracked intake manifold would cause a bowl to drain out. I would assume that it would be caused by internal leaks within the carburator. I'm not sure where exactly, but either it gets drawn by vacuum back out of the bowl (very very unlikely), or it's leaking out of the bowl somewhere. The cracked intake would show symptoms similar to not holding an idle without choke, hard starting requiring excessive pumping on the gas, etc.
 
I agree - a cracked intake isn't going to effect your gas bowl at all. They are completly sep. If it predictably leaks out in 6hrs, you've got something else going on inside the carb, unless the carb fan isn't working and it's boiling out - but you'd have a hard time hot starting it, also.
 
Oh, also, I changed out my fuel filter this afternoon - however, before I did, I noticed that I wasn't have the cold-start 10 second run problem. What I have done recently was a) unplug the carbon build up on the PCV hardline at the manifold and b) spray Deep Creep down into the EGR.

Could they be related? Doesn't make sense, but who knows.
 
It's Gotten Worse!!!

UN-F***ING-BELIEVABLE!!!

I changed ALL the vacuum hoses this morning. Seemed to give some actual improvement over previous running characteristics - nice.

Three hours later I go down to start my 60 to do some tooling around town and IT JUST WILL NOT TURN OVER. I finally get it to blast into life by pulling the choke and standing on the gas while cranking for all she's worth. After finally convincing myself that she'll run for a bit I drove her around awhile.. maybe 15-20 minutes or so. When I get her going down the road after a brief stop I notice the tell-tale puff-ticking of an exhaust leak! Somehow I had blown about a 1" x 1.5" piece of manifold gasket right out off in front of cyl. #3! (I'm actually looking at the piece right now....) WTF!!! I limp her home (mostly to possible prevent any more random disasters) and find that I have to "blast" her to life by choking and standing on the gas every time now. I'm very disheartened now.....

I'll certainly go for a Jim C carb rebuild if it'll help but damn! I wish I knew what caused all this mess.

Sure am glad my nissan pick up still runs......

Sniff......Sniff.....

Nick
 
Oh yeah....

Manifold vacuum sits around 17-18Hg at idle.... Engine seems to be running abit rich according to plugs.... BVSVs appear to be functional according to the "suck" test as well as vac advance on dizzy.

I have headers and no smog system.

HELP!!
 
So let me get this all straight: You have a chunk of the intake/exhaust manifold gasket blown away, but you still have decent vacuum at idle. Strange. I can tell you this from experience though, I had a cracked intake and it was a hard start all the time do to not having good vacuum pulling in the fuel through the manifold. Once I replaced the manifold it starts like a fuel injected sports car. Start at the beginning and re-check the easy stuff first. Check our float level both cold and hot via the window. Make sure you have a good fuel supply and there's actually fuel in the carb. Is your accelerator pump and boot wet? (on top of the carb - possibly not the cause, but also possibly related.) Check your compression again wet and dry. It's not going to run well if you're low. Also do a leakdown test if your compression is good and see if your valves are starting to get bad, and adjust the valves as well. Check all of your vacuum lines (the ones that are left after your desmog) and make sure they're on the right connectors. Replace your intake/exhaust gasket if it is obviously blown. Nothing good can come from a leaky manifold and with extended use it can lean out a bit and burn a valve and you're going to have to do it eventually anyway. Once you have the manifolds off check for cracks starting to form underneath the carb. Reassemble and make sure the carb is good and tight on the insulator plate. This was a huge reason for my poor starting performance. I had a leak at the vac port coming into the insulator and at the base of the carb. Start with those and don't get discouraged. Just start ruling out one thing at a time.

Good luck.

Rob
 
swank60 said:
Oh, also, I changed out my fuel filter this afternoon - however, before I did, I noticed that I wasn't have the cold-start 10 second run problem. What I have done recently was a) unplug the carbon build up on the PCV hardline at the manifold and b) spray Deep Creep down into the EGR.

Could they be related? Doesn't make sense, but who knows.
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Two questions please...
1. How do you unplug the carbon buildup in the PCV hardline? (I assume you mean the metal tube that comes up from the block, and the PCV insterts into the top of it?)

2. What is Deep creep - and where did you get access to the EGR to spray?

Thanks!
 
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