What's the secret?

[Mtbcoach]

Trying to remove the u-joints on the FJC. I'm failing.

Used the "bench vise" method, 22mm socket on one side that fits inside the cap dimensions, other side with one big enough to allow the cap to fit inside. Started on my bench vise, broke it. Started using the BFH then remembered Ramon has a press.

Went to Ramon's but we couldn't get things lined up well enough so we retired to his vise. I broke his vise too and didn't get one cap free.

Yes, all the clips are removed.

Ready to pull my hair out but I cut it all off. Any help/advise/referrals to local shop to press them out in the event I need to go that route...

 

[strong_toy]

I may be wrong, but I think the "secret" is to make sure the "other side" socket is absolutely, for sure, large enough for the cap to press into it. If not, you will break the press or that socket trying to press the joint into it. Does that make sense? BTW, what size socket did you use 26mm, 1in??

I ran into a similar issue a year or so ago trying to help a friend replace u-joints on a Jeep. We split the socket because the inside diameter was too small for the cap.

Worst case, fine someone with a lathe that can open up the ID of the socket using a boring bar. You will ruin the socket but it will work better for the press tool. Or buy a larger 6 point socket. Without knowing the cap diameter, I'm not sure off hand what size socket to recommend.

Feel free to give me a call in the morning to discuss.

 

[little_joe]

Southern Wake Automotive on Penny and Ten-Ten did all 4 of mine for a few bucks, I dropped the driveshafts off, ran around for a bit, came back and picked them up. Well worth it imho.............. I'm tired of fighting with those things.

 

[krzyabncanuck]

My method is the woods method but has worked for me every time.

I just hit the joint with the BFH i can find to get them out and then use the socket method to put them back together. If i was closer i would help you.

 

[BMThiker]

As I told Jerry last night...the trick is to work from the inside out. Beating on the outside of the cap, trying to push it the opposite side out, has never worked for me. Take a small chisel or flat screwdriver and aim for the rubber seal. All you need to do is push the cap about 1/8 inch and then you can yank it the rest of the way out with a pair of vise grips. Once the first cap comes off (in one direction) the second one is much easier to remove, because you are only fighting the friction of one cap. I use a 3lb hammer to do the removal and then a much lighter hammer to tap the new joints into place.

 

[Mtbcoach]

I may be wrong, but I think the "secret" is to make sure the "other side" socket is absolutely, for sure, large enough for the cap to press into it. If not, you will break the press or that socket trying to press the joint into it. Does that make sense? BTW, what size socket did you use 26mm, 1in??

I ran into a similar issue a year or so ago trying to help a friend replace u-joints on a Jeep. We split the socket because the inside diameter was too small for the cap.

Worst case, fine someone with a lathe that can open up the ID of the socket using a boring bar. You will ruin the socket but it will work better for the press tool. Or buy a larger 6 point socket. Without knowing the cap diameter, I'm not sure off hand what size socket to recommend.

Feel free to give me a call in the morning to discuss.

Yes, I/we made sure it had clearance. I was able one to move but couldn't get it out enough to clear...

Southern Wake Automotive on Penny and Ten-Ten did all 4 of mine for a few bucks, I dropped the driveshafts off, ran around for a bit, came back and picked them up. Well worth it imho.............. I'm tired of fighting with those things.

Thanks for the reference Joe. They were too busy to deal with me today...

My method is the woods method but has worked for me every time.

I just hit the joint with the BFH i can find to get them out and then use the socket method to put them back together. If i was closer i would help you.

This became my method...

As I told Jerry last night...the trick is to work from the inside out. Beating on the outside of the cap, trying to push it the opposite side out, has never worked for me. Take a small chisel or flat screwdriver and aim for the rubber seal. All you need to do is push the cap about 1/8 inch and then you can yank it the rest of the way out with a pair of vise grips. Once the first cap comes off (in one direction) the second one is much easier to remove, because you are only fighting the friction of one cap. I use a 3lb hammer to do the removal and then a much lighter hammer to tap the new joints into place.

I see how your method works Rick, thanks again for your help.

Yet, mine seemed exceptionally stubborn. I called around this morning, thinking I would be able to find someone while I was installing the Inchworm. Found a guy on Old Apex, nice and close. But, alas, once I arrived, the doors were closed. He failed to mention that he had closed that shop and, after I called and asked him what was up, he forgot to mention that suggested it was an easy drive to Ten-Ten and 401. NOT...

I wound up just using another set of hands (I'm thankful everyday how great my daughters are) since the vise is destined for a landfill and with a BFH to get them moving, then some vice grips to remove them. Cleaned them all up and the new units went in easily. What a friggen hassle.

The issue for this driveshaft is that its not flat so that supporting it in the vise/press made for an uneven/unstable platform to push/pound against. Once I was able to fully support the yoke, I was able to pound them through with the BFH and impact socket.

Thanks again for all the feedback, guidance and offers for help. They are in, greased and ready for duty...

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Just wait till you come across some that have to be heated up to remove the plastic before you can remove them.